A/C fan Removal?

[dj_remy]

Read a few things about it, but no answers, can I just remove my a/c fan and mount the cooling fan where the a/c fan is and leave the a/c fan out? i don't really ever use my a/c. will that cause probs or not?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Why not just wire it into your cooling fan harness so when one comes on they both do. Makes a lot more sense.

 

[greddyturbo19]

dude i took out my AC fan and my car started to overheat. i just bought some slim fans from autozone and hooked them both up to come on together and now the temp gauge stays in the middle or under

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I see what you wanna do, you wanna move the cooling fan over to the a/c fans spot. You can just take the cooling fan out and plug the a/c fan into the cooling fan harness and just run 1 fan. Being in Ohio you probably won't be exposed too the real bad heat so you shouldn't have any overheating problems.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

This year, in 100F weather, I've been running with no A/C fan. I didn't move fans around or anything, but did retain the other fan.

I took it out to make room for something I was working on and didn't put it back until just yesterday. Since I had no need to leave it out I figured I may as well use it instead of let it sit on my bench.

Coolant temps with the A/C on (and no A/C fan) are measurably higher, but I never exceeded 208F coolant temps. This is within normal operating range. But this is also without a FMIC.

So, from my experience, you can actually use your A/C with no A/C fan without overheating. But I do not recommend doing this as every car is different and when you manipulate an engineered cooling system you've better be prepared for the consequences.

Why do you ask?

 

[DGajre777]

To the OP, if you never use the A/C just take the fan out. You could also keep the fan and wire it so it comes on at the same time as the original fan.

dude i took out my AC fan and my car started to overheat. i just bought some slim fans from autozone and hooked them both up to come on together and now the temp gauge stays in the middle or under

Your setup must be different than mine because I have 2 x 12" Torqflo (Compressor works) fans that I bought from autozone, they flow 800cfm and my car overheats. I'm running a XS/SSAC FMIC and Punishment Racing's radiator. More info here - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/299088-autozone-torqflo-fans.html

 

[dj_remy]

I see what you wanna do, you wanna move the cooling fan over to the a/c fans spot. You can just take the cooling fan out and plug the a/c fan into the cooling fan harness and just run 1 fan. Being in Ohio you probably won't be exposed too the real bad heat so you shouldn't have any overheating problems.

I can try for a couple of days and see how it goes, if it runs higher than my comfort zone, I'll put them back.

So, from my experience, you can actually use your A/C with no A/C fan without overheating. But I do not recommend doing this as every car is different and when you manipulate an engineered cooling system you've better be prepared for the consequences.

Why do you ask?

more room for j-pipe and turbo, my j-pipe is sitting right on the fan, and most likely is making me have a leak there.

To the OP, if you never use the A/C just take the fan out. You could also keep the fan and wire it so it comes on at the same time as the original fan. ]

the a/c fan isn't my issue really, its the cooling fan, just wanted to move the cooling fan to the a/c fans mount.

 

[wangboy925]

Im in the same situation as you are. I'm going to buy a FMIC kit with a J pipe and I think there won't be any clearance between it and the fan. I think the fan could be trimmed?

 

[dj_remy]

well i just took the cooling fan out completely and plugged the cooling fans harness intot the a/c fans harness, and it works fine for now, runs a little hotter than normal, but no big deal, got a intake on the way so that will help, and will order slim line fans soon.

Im in the same situation as you are. I'm going to buy a FMIC kit with a J pipe and I think there won't be any clearance between it and the fan. I think the fan could be trimmed?

try that, if it runs to hot, cut the j-pipe about 2" away from the flang, and get a coupler 45 deg/90 deg depending on your need, and extend it away from your fan, it worked for me until i got lower IC pipe from Dejon.

 

[tt281gt]

I have the SSAC FMIC [Recently installed]. I used a J pipe [for the 16g] that is used to go to the STOCK side mount, I had to modify it a little to make it work.

My COOLING fan had to be trimed at the very least, to be safe [I didn't want any down time] I bought a SPAL pusher fan [installed between the intercooler and radiator] AND i jumpered the AC relay to the COOLING fan relay so when one fan powers on they BOTH do. If you are running your AC they will both be on low, once the ECU decides it needs to kick in the cooling fan [on high] they BOTH kick in harder.

So far no overheating issues in 90-98 degree weather here in in SoCal. I'll keep my fingers crossed until the end of summer though.

Almost forgot to mention that I have NO AC condenser.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

well i just took the cooling fan out completely and plugged the cooling fans harness intot the a/c fans harness, and it works fine for now, runs a little hotter than normal, but no big deal, got a intake on the way so that will help, and will order slim line fans soon.



try that, if it runs to hot, cut the j-pipe about 2" away from the flang, and get a coupler 45 deg/90 deg depending on your need, and extend it away from your fan, it worked for me until i got lower IC pipe from Dejon.

I was just curious as to how you're going to use an intake to help coolant temps?

 

[dj_remy]

not coolant temps, to help keep the air cooler going in. dont wnat to possibly loose hp cause of hot engine bay, idk, thought it would help.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Well, an intake is simply a metal pipe version of the stock rubber snorkel. The pipe itself will not have much impact on air filter location, function, nor will an intake pipe produce cooler intake temperatures.

Don't get me wrong, an intake is a fine mod for a few reasons, but lowering your intake temps isn't one of them.

However, if you have a FMIC, you can mod your intake setup into a "cold air intake" for our cars by placing the air filter where the SMIC used to go. This will produce cooler intake temps.

 

[dj_remy]

well thats my goal eventually, but i was under the impression of aluminum <-(whatever) cools down faster than rubber especially with air being sucked into it, an intake for the turbo, not the intake manifold, will help cooler air go into the turbo and spool up faster, right?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

well thats my goal eventually, but i was under the impression of aluminum <-(whatever) cools down faster than rubber especially with air being sucked into it, an intake for the turbo, not the intake manifold, will help cooler air go into the turbo and spool up faster, right?

While aluminum certainly does cool down faster than rubber, we can't really take advantage of it for this particular situation.
In your scenario where the air being sucked down the throat of the intake pipe was cooling down the pipe itself, what is really going on is that the air is absorbing heat from the metal piping and thus raising the temperature of the air.

But its a moot point. An intake pipe doesn't have enough surface area to have significant impact on the incoming air's mean temperature anyhow, even if that were what was going on. The air is in contact with too little surface area, per its volume, and spends too little time with the surface area it does have to allow for any significant heat exchange.

The reason we get intake pipes is to reduce the restriction of the stock snorkel and smooth the flow to allow for less turbulent airflow to the compressor. And thusly some measurable (or not) gain in spool and power. I have my own opinions on the use of intakes and their questionable value for a small turbo setup, but thats another story.

 

[dj_remy]

Well now I'm curious, did I just waist some money trying to my 16G to spool up faster in lower rpms?
I see your point about not cooling air, in this situation, never dealt with intakes on a boosted car before, thought it would work the same as n/a.....guess not, but free flowing filter, removal of the box, and aluminum pipe=better air flow? faster spool up? (tell me yes, or i'm gonna be upset with myself)

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Don't worry about it.
To reiterate, the purpose of an intake is to reduce restriction and increase flow. This can potentially lead to improved spool-up and power.

However, N/A or turbo applications, simply installing an aluminum intake pipe will not decrease intake temps.

Besides, you purchased the $30 cheapy off eBay thats every bit as good as the $200 Injen pipe, right?
Even if you didn't, like I should have done too, the Extreme Psi intake is a fine choice for <$140. Plus it supports our vendors. This is what I have purchased and have since retired. Again, due to a personal choice/opinion.

 

[dj_remy]

yeah, got an ebay cheap-o, only out $30, I really want extremepsi upper IC w/ 1st gen BOV for a quick upgrade since most "decent" FMIC kits are $800 and up, and need to research a bit more to really learn how to put one on. That upgrade will run me roughly $220 and can reuse it for my FMIC.

 

[dj_remy]

alrighty then, just bolted up my turbo intake and i'm digging the results so far, the 16G is spooling up faster and going up to 11 psi now, when before I could ony make to 9psi. (auto tranny changing gears on me, argh!). Doing a boost leak test tomorrow or thursday, give you guys the results of before and after.

btw, it does overheat with the cooling fan out and the a/c is on. i think cincy get a little hotter w/ humidity than people think. so slim fans it is.