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97 GST Spyder, what should I do?

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97gst_spyder

10+ Year Contributor
2,262
16
Sep 1, 2008
Lakeland, Florida
I have a 97 gst spyder 5-spd. The car has unknown maintenance and bullshit everywhere.
Here's the current specs,
Stock everything.
All electronics work, minus locks, cruise, a/c, and radio.
The engine was checked out by a DSM only tech, well known for his work and honesty, the engine has 200 compression, no leaks, no smoke, no cel's, nothing for now. So the engine is in perfect condition for its miles @ 117k

Here's the bad:
Unknown oil change interval
Unknown timing belt interval
Random rtv all over the engine, but no oil leaks
Random ford fiesta a/c fan.
Non-oem foglights

Here's the questions,

What does everyone recommend I do first?

What should I do to improve performance, best bang for the buck, and keep reliability?

What should I look for to keep it running well?

Do I have to buy the convertible roof fix kit or can I fix it myself?

Whats the best suspension components to buy to stiffen up the chassis up? The car is more flexible than a flag in the wind. Also, is there any real name brand strut bars and tie bars, I can't find any.

Parts that I have:
OEM timing belt
OEM drive belts
2g mani and o2 housing
starion fmic and complete hard piping
Greddy type-rs bov
Crank angle sensor and Cam angle sensors
MAF
17in Black rims with new tires

Thats it for now, I've search most of these things and never get a clean answer.

Here's some quick pics that I have: GST pictures by cnalven1 - Photobucket

Thanks,
Chris
 
So am I to guess that you just purchased this car?? Also why do you bring up the top... Is there something wrong with it or did I just miss that part.... As for what to do first I would suggest a timing belt first and fore most. Then work on what you want fixed. If you could add pics of what you think is a problem that would be great as well.... then maybe we could help more. I mean in the pics the car looks clean other than the seat being ripped.
 
My gf bought the car before I met her, I've been working on my b15 till now. The top has the 2nd bow (?) issue, where its not connected to the passenger side. I'll be taking more/larger pics tomorrow.

Chris
 
My gf bought the car before I met her, I've been working on my b15 till now. The top has the 2nd bow (?) issue, where its not connected to the passenger side. I'll be taking more/larger pics tomorrow.

Chris

Make sure you change balance shaft belts while your doing the timing job. If one of those breaks assuming they havent been changed USUALLY ball up and break timing belts.

As for performance find out what kind of turbo its got probably a t28. Upgrade the turbo to a 14b or 16g and get rid of the plastic BOV. Run 15psi on the stock tune and be running in the 12s thats if you can hook.
 
Make sure you change balance shaft belts while your doing the timing job. If one of those breaks assuming they havent been changed USUALLY ball up and break timing belts.

As for performance find out what kind of turbo its got probably a t28.

You mean a T25 if has a T28 then going to a 14B would be a downgrade.IMO:aha:
 
Everybody's car is different but when I started modding, Replacing the the plastic upper intercooler pipe and BOV was the best bang for the buck that I saw.

Your fmic might be over kill for the t25. But since you already have it - put it in, then you will be itching for a bigger turbo and that uicp will be replaced at the same time.
 
Do the BCS Restrictor mod while you wait to really get into it and get yourself some free horsepower. Do a search for it or check the tech section. Its not gonna change your life, but its like a free pound of boost and it takes literally under a minute to do with just a small screw driver and a 10mm socket.

Kind of amazed at the front mount... completely unnecessary at this point. You sure there's no boost controller on there? If not, here's your first three mods, do em at the same time.

1)boost guage
2)manual boost controller(15psi tops)
3)metal blow-off valve(evo9 or 1g) keep it recirculated.

*one note about maintenance/issues: if you notice your clutch sticking in the down position, sell it or get ready to spend dough on a 6-bolt. Its crankwalk(do a search).
 
I have a greddy type-rs waiting to go on. Also, the clutch is fine, old but no signs of crankwalk.
 
How hard was the awd conversion?

My awd conversion took me a long time. BUT my donor was a rust bucket that needed a ton of work before I could use the parts.

Overall I am handy with any kind of tool, but not a mechanic by a long shot. I would say that the project is relatively easy. If you do not know how to weld or are sloppy like me, you can use metal adhesive and pop rivets to hold the drive shaft carriers in place.

In another thread one guy said that he did the whole swap in one weekend, so it can be done. It took me about 2 months of only working on weekends to do it.

Do some research there is a full thread "awd conversion guys enter here" Spells out everything!

Good Luck
John
 
Ok, so after getting my new rims and tires on I took it out. The car is flex able as hell, what are the best parts to get to help stiffen this car? I've heard that a ftsb is the biggest improvement. Is this true? I'm used to k-sports with nismo everything on my sentra, this thing is scary at times.

Chris
 
I would also change all fluids and check all hoses and check to make sure nothing is loose. Maybe even just do a good cleaning, inside and out. Also if you don't plan on using the ac you could take all of that out and free up some engine bay area, as well as the cruise control.

Also to help with your flex get a good suspension. Even new performance struts and springs will help a lot. Doing a full bushing upgrade will help a lot. Window weld the motor mounts or get actual motor mounts. I would also check your ball joints just as a precausion or your other links and what nots to the suspension.
 
Ok, The bushings look shot. Is it worth it for the prothane or energy suspension bushings or just get oem?
 
to start off, thats almost identical to my car. i had a problem with my car flexing really bad over bumps when i first bought it. i found that replacing the struts with some new oe replacements (purcahased at a parts store) and some tenzo r lowering springs (from ebay) made a world of difference. i ended up spending less than $250 on the whole set up. as far as the center bow problem, there are strap kits that can be purchased for about $100, if im not mistaken, that will fix the problem. i would definately recommend taking care off all maintenance items before you do any performance mods, as many before me have said.

-timing belt, water pump, balance shaft belt
-inspect the air filter
-plugs, wires, fuel filter
-change the coolant, gear oil, and engine oil
-(if you plan on keeping the sidemount for now) pull out the smic and clean it with a pressure washer set to low (so you dont damage the fins)
-inspect and change the pcv

thats all i can think of off the top of my head. im sure someone has more to add.
 
Is autozone fuel filter good or should I go with an aftermarket one?
 
"The engine was checked out by a DSM only tech, well known for his work and honesty, the engine has 200 compression, no leaks, no smoke, no cel's, nothing for now. So the engine is in perfect condition for its miles @ 117k"

...I didn't know that there are schools for DSM ONLY technicians...This tech is telling you that the engine has 200 compression on a car that off of the assembly line has 186?

"Here's the bad:
Unknown oil change interval
Unknown timing belt interval
Random rtv all over the engine, but no oil leaks
Random ford fiesta a/c fan.
Non-oem foglights"

Nothing you can do about the past oil change intervals unfortunately. Change it now with Mobil 1 synthetic. Change coolant as well. Change the timing and balance belts NOW. If the fan is 12," works, and works in the correct direction, fine. Foglights...this is really a performance sight, so that's irrelevant. Besides, that's an extremely common thing for people to do on any car...the stockers aren't 'cool enough,' so they have to upgrade.

"Here's the questions,

What does everyone recommend I do first?

What should I do to improve performance, best bang for the buck, and keep reliability?

What should I look for to keep it running well?

Do I have to buy the convertible roof fix kit or can I fix it myself?"

You're new to this I'm guessing...go through the process. Read the tech articles and upgrade paths that have been done over and over and proven reliable. FIRST THING TO DO is maintenance. That's can't be stressed enough. You're going to get a bunch of different answers when asking everyone's thoughts that I'm thinking you may not fully understand...so go slow. READ READ READ.

"Whats the best suspension components to buy to stiffen up the chassis up? The car is more flexible than a flag in the wind. Also, is there any real name brand strut bars and tie bars, I can't find any."

If your car feels that lose and flexable, then you probably need NEW components. You want the BEST??? Go spend over a grand or two on electronic coilovers, get a roll cage, re-do every single bushing, etc...Chances are if you get the answers, you're still not going to go out and buy the 'best.' Of course there are real name brand strut bars and tie bars, you don't have to look too hard.

"Parts that I have:
OEM timing belt
OEM drive belts
2g mani and o2 housing
starion fmic and complete hard piping
Greddy type-rs bov
Crank angle sensor and Cam angle sensors
MAF
17in Black rims with new tires"

Are these parts that you have in your possession or have on your car? If you're worried about performance and durability/reliability, rims should be the last thing on your mind. With a front mount and that T-25, you're going to be losing too much pressure. I would say put the stock side mount back on, but keep that front mount for later.

"Thats it for now, I've search most of these things and never get a clean answer."

...The upgrade paths are as clear as it can. And as it says, only after you've done all that yourself will you have enough knowledge and UNDERSTANDING to go beyond.


Read the tech articles and upgrade paths.

Ben :talon:
 
I've read almost all the tech articles, and the performance guides.

Since the oil is like chocolate syrup, is seafoam going to hurt the turbo or anything like that? Also, is the k & n oil filter fine or should I go with an oem?

Last thing, is autopart store brand, fuel filter and etc ok to use or oem all the way?

Thanks
 
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