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97 2g awd problems. Just got it home.

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Muzzled

10+ Year Contributor
34
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May 14, 2011
Kitchener, ON, Canada
So i bought a 97 2g awd (bone stock) . and im noticing some problems. it needs a clutch slave i know this much and i have it sitting here. but thats not the issue.

it idles around 1k rpm ( little high but managable.


the problem i have is it stumbles and sputters/loss of power inbetween 2-3k rpm...
after im past that it runs fine again.

@ WOT and in boost, shifting @ 6k , loss of power in the next gear.... it cruises till it catches up.


The car has sat for a while i can tell by the nest sitting on the trans haha...

today added a half tank of new fuel (91 octance) injecter cleaner and probably going to seafoam it , and after new oil/ filter plugs.

Prob the 7es ngks, seeing as i will be modding it soon.


any idea why its stumbling /loss of power?
 
I would do all the maintenance necessary to get started, a tune up may work it wonders.

Is the BOV recirculated?

And do a boost leak test to fix any issues you may have. I consider a BLT to be in the maintenance category.
 
tank was on empty, put 40 bucks worth of 91 in. no change,loss of power f after going WOT, shifting... then wot no power. till the rpms dip beloow 2k...


So today
91 octane (no change)
New plugs Ngk 7s( no change)
wally 255 in and the sending unit. ( no change )
changed the map sensor (no change)
the bov was stock, recirculated... switched it to a forge bov not recirc (no change)

could the maf sensor be causing this?
 
Put your stock BOV back on so it can be recirculated.

Why do you say you change the MAP sensor? Your car has a MAF. What did you change?

Did you do a Boost Leak Test?
 
how can there be boost leaks if its spooling under the 2k.. sputters and holds boost from 3k through to 6...... not questioning your thought but im not against checking...

i changed the map sensor. yes

have not changed/checked the maf ... thats why im questioning it..
 
Hi Greg.
DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTube
just posted that in another thread, cant' hurt to check it and get your idle into check.
The bov being recirculated will more so affect your idle (perhaps why it's high?) as you're under high vac and it will be forced open a little under these conditions. Recirculate it for now just to eliminate the issue.
I'm just going to fire off some suggestions now. Ensure all of your connections are good and clean (CAS, coil, transistor, and spark wires especially) How is your alternator? Check the voltage across the terminals while it's running, then raise the rpm to 2K, then 3K. Voltages should be consistent but you never know.
That's all I can think about for now. I'll brain storm some more later on.
 
Hi Greg.
DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTube
just posted that in another thread, cant' hurt to check it and get your idle into check.
The bov being recirculated will more so affect your idle (perhaps why it's high?) as you're under high vac and it will be forced open a little under these conditions. Recirculate it for now just to eliminate the issue.
I'm just going to fire off some suggestions now. Ensure all of your connections are good and clean (CAS, coil, transistor, and spark wires especially) How is your alternator? Check the voltage across the terminals while it's running, then raise the rpm to 2K, then 3K. Voltages should be consistent but you never know.
That's all I can think about for now. I'll brain storm some more later on.


alternators brand new. the stock 2g bov when it was all proper, idle was 1k...
with the forge bov not recirc its the same.... 1k rpm...
 
how can there be boost leaks if its spooling under the 2k.. sputters and holds boost from 3k through to 6...... not questioning your thought but im not against checking...

i changed the map sensor. yes

have not changed/checked the maf ... thats why im questioning it..

I suggest the BLT simply because to me that's a maintenance item. Like if I got a car that had sat long enough for a nest to be on the transmission a BLT would be up there on my list of things to do along with changing the timing belt.
 
Do all the maintenance. Period. You said its been sitting so the octane of the fuel is shit and your prob detonating. Injectors could be gummed up, filter bad, etc etc etc..... The list is long.
And no offense but your BOV being recirculated or not(as long as its not LEAKING obviously) would have nothing to do with the symptoms you describe.
What happens when a BOV is not recirculated is usually during shifting or anytime you rapidly come off boost, that metered air is lost causing a very momentary rich condition. True, if you do it enough i suppose it could maybe in some near impossible way actually foul plugs but i dont think so.
Do a BLT and make sure everythings good but first, change tbelt, oil, gas, filters... just go through the manual.

BOV, BOV, BOV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jk LOL
 
Vacuum leak/boost leak. Could be your spark plug wires as well. Mine did the same thing when my wires were bad, sputter then go sputter then go. 91 octane fuel should be fine, not the best but shouldn't be doing what it's doing because of 91.
 
finally got the obd2 scanner to power up today :) got the code for a maf related issue... checked there and what do i find.... 3 cut wires between the pigtail and the loom of the harness..

soldered them back to their respective mates, cleared Cel..... fired it up and bog be gone!


car runs great now. no cel at all. no codes... Quite happy it was a few wires and not something more costly.

Thanks for all the input guys .
 
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