2G 96 Talon TSi AWD Sputters when full throttle

[gsxferko]

i just picked up a 96 talon tsi awd... and it is completely stock, just needed a turbo. so i replaced it with a factory t25 ( that was on it ) and it runs great, just when i give it full throttle it sputters or hesitates... as if it had bad spark plugs, so i put brand new plugs and wires in it, and i still does it.... i can go half throttle and it be fine, just when i go WOT it does this... im not to sure what it could be...


any help would be great!


thanks!

 

[BLINKY619]

is the bov recirculated? and will it sputter then go away when it gets going...??

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Sounds like a classic boost leak. When air escapes through a leak in your intake track, it will cause your car to run rich. This is because the air that has escaped has already been accounted for my the MAF and fuel has been added by the ECU. When the air escapes, it throws your air fuel ratio (AFR) off causing your car to run rich. This effects performance, mileage, and can cause shuddering under boost.

Here is a write up on how to do a boost leak test. It is very easy an you can make the device for a few bucks with parts from home depot.

Hope this helps!

 

[gsxferko]

yea, its recirculated, its all original stock... it just completely breaks up and sputters when i go full throttle, i will check for a boost leak though, i checked all the connections and it was fine, but i suppose i can run a boost leak test...

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

hmmm... sounds like youz gotz an issue here my friend. it's not a dsm if you can't go into WOT! i'm thinking maybe (as posted above) you have a major boost leak, ignition system malfunction, OR i'm thinking maybe your car is going into limp mode when the throttle is mashed. MAF sensor? maybe a bad TPS sensor? it's rare, but hey, check it out.

 

[jpdickenson4259]

hey boostbuddygsx, what is a tps sensor?

 

[gsxferko]

throttle position sensor... tells the car how open the throttle is so it can calculate AIR/FUEL ratios = one of the many sensors that do so...

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

hey boostbuddygsx, what is a tps sensor?

TPS stands for Throttle Position Sensor, you can find it on the throttle body, it's big and black. can't miss it

 

[gsxferko]

well tomorrow i plan to tear into it... im hoping its something simple... the guy i purchased it off of said it did this before, so he began driving it with the vaccum line to the recirculating valve disconnected and plugged up so it wouldnt make full boost... seems to be when it tries to make peak boost is when it happens.

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

the guy i purchased it off of said it did this before, so he began driving it with the vaccum line to the recirculating valve disconnected and plugged up.

OH NOOO!!! don't ever do that! the vac line connecting to the nipple on the recirc valve (or a.k.a. blow-off valve) can and WILL damage your turbo. this valve releases the pressurized air in your piping after the turbo. if you don't have that pressure relieved, that air goes "backwards" into the turbo, rapidly stopping your compressor wheel. THIS KILLS TURBOS. If you REALLY don't wanna hit boost, just disconnect the arm that is coming from the wastegate that connects to the flapper. All you have to do is pull out that cotter pin that holds them together.

 

[gsxferko]

yea, i know... thats why when i bought it, i had to replace the turbo... but i called him and got a detailed description of what happened that made him do that, and hes saying it was the problem im having now.... so im not sure what it is... the car was owned by him since 96 and it was always a daily driver

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

hmmmmm you should bring it to my shop . we'll take a look at it. it's a little far though, try taking it to a pepboys and pay 90$$ for an engine analysis.

 

[gsxferko]

your only about an hour and a half... ... id come by

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

your only about an hour and a half... ... id come by

more like 2 and a half hours buddy

 

[gsxferko]

it says my town to your town is 2hrs 2 mins... id get there in 1 1/2 haha

 

[BoostBuddyGSX]

hahahahaha this guy... hey, if you really just wanna stop by send me a PM. hope everything goes well with your problem!

 

[Jimmer307]

Sounds like a classic case of needing plugs and wires. I don't care if the previous owner says he replaced them 100 miles ago, I always buy brand new NGK plugs gap them (.029-.031) and throw them in. It is all of 10 bucks and 10 minutes. Wires are more expensive, but take all of 1 minute to change. I had what sounds to be a similar problem. I could hit boost if I gradually gave it gas, but if I WOT the car would stutter, stumble, and cut.

 

[gsxferko]

i did plugs and wires... thats why i posted this thread, its got to be something else... not sure what it is

 

[Jimmer307]

This may be a stupid question but did you gap them properly? Also what kind of plugs did you use? What kind of wires? If everything is all good there, then I too am sold on a boost leak.

 

[1G_FL_AWD]

This may be a stupid question but did you gap them properly? Also what kind of plugs did you use? What kind of wires? If everything is all good there, then I too am sold on a boost leak.

im with this guy^^ gapp em right ### I had the same problem in my 2g...thats all it needed new gapped plugs and wires...

 

[gsxferko]

i gapped them, and i used NKG plugs... and OEM wires... any chance this can be fuel filter???

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

i gapped them, and i used NKG plugs... and OEM wires... any chance this can be fuel filter???

Could be, it certainly wouldn't hurt to change it. They should be replaced every 30,000 miles and an OEM one is only about $20.

 

[thomcasey]

OH NOOO!!! don't ever do that! the vac line connecting to the nipple on the recirc valve (or a.k.a. blow-off valve) can and WILL damage your turbo. this valve releases the pressurized air in your piping after the turbo. if you don't have that pressure relieved, that air goes "backwards" into the turbo, rapidly stopping your compressor wheel. THIS KILLS TURBOS. If you REALLY don't wanna hit boost, just disconnect the arm that is coming from the wastegate that connects to the flapper. All you have to do is pull out that cotter pin that holds them together.

Ummm, if you remove the vacuum line from the BOV to the intake, it will NOT go back into the turbo, but it WILL vent to the atmosphere, which will cause issues with idle and how it performs. I am sure he meant that the line to the intake was plugged, and not the BOV itself.

Now, removing the BOV all-together, then you will get turbo flutter. Though, it is up for debate as to whether or not it will cause issues. There are a bunch of folks in Australia that run Holden's without BOV's and like the flutter sound, with no turbo damage after several years of use. Sounds like prairie dog barks. It is called a DOSE pipe, they have video's all over the YouTube

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Replace your fuel filter and do a boost leak test and come back (Or just let me know to make things easier ahahaha......)



Don't forget to ad that your CEL is not one. And, The car still hits full boost when the sputtering is occuring. And also that in 3rd gear and up it doesn't do it until the higher rpms.

 

[insanedsm2403]

Fuel filter and FUEL PUMP SOCK/FILTER!the one attached to the fuel pump change it.20 bucks.but let me tell you,this little filter gave me hell.I couldn't go full throttle for months.changed everything..fuel filter(but not pump sock),plugs and wires,coil pack,resistor pack,cam angle sensor,million boost leak tests,ecu,injectors,fpr,man I mean everything!until I hit the fuel pump.put in a new wally 255 with new sock.motors runs like a rocket.3 days later same exact problem????so I take pump out again and my pump sock was once again,filled with rusty crud everywhere.replaced again and back to seeing my tailights for my friends.blt 1st,fuel filterS next.btw my fuel pressure at idle was always 36 at idle/at fuel filter making this problem super hard to diagnose.