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95tsi Car sputter's under load

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Trans95am208

Probationary Member
7
0
Apr 2, 2009
Preston, Idaho
I have a 1995 eagle talon i just bought a few weeks ago. I put new plugs and wires on and a few days later it started to sputter around 3000 rpm when i try acclerate. I had a check engine light on saying fuel trim bank 1 fault. the scan tool also showed that it was runing lean and was adding more fuel. also i put a new cold air intake and bov on. :confused:
 
Dude the car is tuned for recirculated BOV, every time the atmospheric valve opens, the compressed air is lost, and then after you shift, your intake has no charge anymore and wants postive recirc'd air but it has to wait for turbo to make more, in that time right there where the motor is starved, the ecu is tuned to add feul for the recircd air, there isn't any air anymore so the car runs rich on gas until your turbo spools, or until you see boost again, just go recirc'd!!!1
 
Dude the car is tuned for recirculated BOV, every time the atmospheric valve opens, the compressed air is lost, and then after you shift, your intake has no charge anymore and wants postive recirc'd air but it has to wait for turbo to make more, in that time right there where the motor is starved, the ecu is tuned to add feul for the recircd air, there isn't any air anymore so the car runs rich on gas until your turbo spools, or until you see boost again, just go recirc'd!!!1

Yup! same thing happened to me when I put on my HKS . Had to get the car retuned.
 
To the OP, if you like that cool vented sound, go look for a GM MAF sensor or MAF translator, and you can run and tune atmospheric, but for your state now, run the BOV recirced through metal recirc tube and you will still get a loud ducky noise, but not as loud as vented. Recirced means POWER BEHIND EVERY SHIFT
 
It was the spark plugs. i put e3's in and every time the boost would spool up it would blow the spark out. put ngk's in and it fixed the problem. but i threw a rod the next week:(
 
The gap would have some to do with it. But he said him self he was venting his BOV. With out supporting MODS to do so.
 
The gap would have some to do with it. But he said him self he was venting his BOV. With out supporting MODS to do so.

A vented bov wouldn't cause the problems he was having. It's said that 1g bov's leak a little at idle (pull in vacuum) so while out of boost he would run a little lean, but under boost nothing would happen until he pushed the clutch in to shift, then the air that the ecu calculates to travel from the bov back to the intake would be dumped into the atmosphere, being lost, causing the car to run rich since it already added fuel for that air that it assumed it would be getting. But this would only happen when he shifts and the bov is purged.
 
A vented bov wouldn't cause the problems he was having. It's said that 1g bov's leak a little at idle (pull in vacuum) so while out of boost he would run a little lean, but under boost nothing would happen until he pushed the clutch in to shift, then the air that the ecu calculates to travel from the bov back to the intake would be dumped into the atmosphere, being lost, causing the car to run rich since it already added fuel for that air that it assumed it would be getting. But this would only happen when he shifts and the bov is purged.

+1

...and I was going to say "tune up". If you experience the OP's scenario in any car, it's always the place to start. Works ok until boost? You're blowing the spark out. At least if you're not seeing big black clouds of smoke anyway.

Honestly, I think everyone makes too big of a deal about the recirc. It comes up way too often.
 
+1 for the BOV i UNrecirculated mine just for shits and gigs to hear what it sounded like once not to drive it though.. and it would even idle

Did you cap off the recirc fitting on the intake pipe? Most people don't, allowing your turbo to suck in tons of unmetered air. I'm running mine for the time being because with the new fmic kit I got and the way I have to run my mas there's no way I could get a recirc hose to fit, and although I don't like having to do it and will find a fix very soon, it's working fine for now. Just have to keep it from dying every now and then.
 
if i use the boost leak tester, what do i hook it onto? the turbo? i didnt realize such a little boost leak could cause a sputter around 3k rpms... i have all the problems fixed, except around 3k rpm... when i get passed 3k it runs ok... and u can hear the turbo spool fine... but when the turbo just starts to kick in it kinda sputters, if i hit the gas hard, or if i ease into it... please give me a few ideas.. i have seen so many different things it could be... im just hoping that its something simple like a spark plug, which im going to buy right now...
 
Spark plugs should be NGK iridium for best results.

The boost leak tester goes onto the intake side of the turbo where you can see the fins. Check your plug gap as well. The same thing was happening for my 91 but that was because I was venting with out the proper equiptment.

Also are you guys watching out for knock with your uncirc'd BOV? Unless you tuned your car for the lesser amount of air you could be causing more damage then you figure just because it runs ok.
 
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