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95 GST from Tucson

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Here's a little backstory on the GST. I purchased it for $1200, while it had an overheating issue. Turns out it didn't have any coolant in it, so I filled it up and drove it home with no problems. Eventually it would get low due to bad coolant hoses and a faulty radiator cap. That is the reason that I purchased it for so cheap. Turns out the AC worked as well so that was a bonus. Ran extremely rich, also had a warmed up high idle which I am still dealing with.

The car overall is in good condition for its age, and since it was an Arizona car there isnt any rust on it whatsoever. Paint is okay except on the pass. door that was involved in an accident sometime in its life. Interior is in decent shape not including the headliner and the sun visors. The Arizona heat has done a number on them.

I've done most of the routine maintenance on it so far, including full tune up, hoses, gaskets, and more to come as well including timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump. I'll be posting more as more happens
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Still dealing with some auto trans bugs. Shifts fine when its cold, but once its warmed up it shifts really rough. Doesn't slip at all, but it shifts rough. especially the downshift from 4th to 3rd when coming to a stop. I will be replacing the fluid and the filter along with the cv axles in a week or so. Hopefully that takes care of that problem.

Another issue I'm having with it is the charging system. I recently replaced the alternator and the battery with an Optima Red Top, and it still isn't putting out enough voltage to run my accessories. My amp for my sub is displaying a low voltage light, and my boost controller isn't functioning as it should. Display lights up and works, but the boost pressure doesn't change. I believe it is a voltage issue because when the old battery went bad, the alt was charging fully, and the boost controller worked perfectly as well as the amp. If anyone has had this problem, any help would be appreciated.
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Thanks for the help Gandalf, hopefully that is the case. Don't know any of the history of the car so I'll have to check on that. Still working on the charging system, I'm totally out of ideas on why its acting up. Doesn't want to charge at a full 14 volts, it just wants to stay around 13 for some reason. New battery/ terminals, new alternator, I even ran an extra 4 gauge wire directly off the alternator to the battery. Its frustrating that I cant use any of my accessories at the moment. The strange thing is that it will charge enough so that the battery doesn't go dead, but it wont charge at a full 14v. Any help is appreciated
 

Gandalf

Proven Member
66
28
Dec 19, 2017
ll, Oregon
how many auto parts store alternators have you tried... the magic number is usually 3 or 4 before you get one that works (they will tell you nothing is wrong with it). the ones from napa are reportedly the best ones.. i think they are bosch.
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
I think the alt is good, because it will ramdomly start charging correctly throuought the drive. I don’t know though I may have to get another one. Also looking into the galant alternator setup. This is the only one I’ve tried and it is the Bosch I believe
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Just blew a headgasket on Monday. Compression is leaking between #3 and #4. I plan on getting it all done here in the next two weeks. I'm getting the head completely done, I have a new timing belt/ component set that is going on as well. I plan on doing the intake/exhaust gaskets, the throttle body gaskets, new 02 sensor, new cv axles, coolant temp sensors, and possibly throw on the 14b that I have as well. Any other suggestions on things I should do while its torn apart?
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Pulled the head off today. Found a little more about the history of this car. It’s been rode hard and put away wet. Sometime in it’s life it’s had a rebuilt engine put in, and on that rebuilt engine a new head. I found some stamps on the pistons that I’m not too sure what they’re for. Figured might as well do the starter and all the mounts while It’s mostly exposed. Hopefully when this is all done it’ll be good to go for a while. If someone knows what the stamps on the top of the pistons means please chime in, it’d be nice to see what this engine is about. It says 0.50.
 

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Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Just got the motor re assembled today along with all new mounts and a new starter since I was in there. Started right up, but it seems really sluggish and was only hitting 5psi of boost where before it was hitting 15lbs. Exhaust gaskets are all new intake manifold gaskets are all new. I think it may be a little out of time. I was extremely careful with the cam gears and the belt, but I think it may have jumped a tooth. Accelerates really slowly off the line. Any ideas on what may be causing this?
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Thanks for the help dude. I’m also still having a high warmed up idle, and I can’t understand it. I replaced all the gaskets when I had the head off. Not sure here I’m stumped
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Have some more updates on the car. It now has an Evo 3 16g, link, and pte 880cc injectors. Also threw on a set of Evo 8 Enkeis. Tuning with link is a new thing for me, so I’m still getting to know it.
 

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streetraceboi

Moderator
820
351
Sep 4, 2002
San Antonio, Texas
Did you paint the valve cover yourself?
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Got a lot done on the gst this week, did the oil pan gasket, helicoiled some valve cover bolts, replaced the alt with a high output alt, installed a 190 Wally and stm rewrite kit, new filter to rail line, and installed an lc-1 wideband.

I’m having a weird issue with AFRs though. It will stay around 14 until I hit 10-12 psi. After that it will hold solid around 11-10.5 up to 20 psi. I’ve messed around with the fuel in link which has helped a little but still not where it needs to be.
 

EVLGSX

Proven Member
655
249
Dec 7, 2017
Wallingford, Connecticut
Got a lot done on the gst this week, did the oil pan gasket, helicoiled some valve cover bolts, replaced the alt with a high output alt, installed a 190 Wally and stm rewrite kit, new filter to rail line, and installed an lc-1 wideband.

I’m having a weird issue with AFRs though. It will stay around 14 until I hit 10-12 psi. After that it will hold solid around 11-10.5 up to 20 psi. I’ve messed around with the fuel in link which has helped a little but still not where it needs to be.


Thats how it should be
 

Jacob_Barnes520GST

Proven Member
100
8
Feb 21, 2018
Tucson, Arizona
Here's an update. After a long electrical battle with the injectors not firing, the headgasket blew on its first drive in months. Put a "good" rebuilt head with new gasket and ARP studs. Turns out I have a few bent valves. I made sure it was in time when i put it together and also rolled it around by hand with no resistance, so they must have been bent when I put it in.
Also, what torque has everyone used on the ARP studs? Just curious to see what everyone has done
 
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