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1G 94 Plymouth turbo RS FWD, clutch disengages 1 inch off the floor

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
55
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
I purchased the car like this without really thinking. I got tired of waiting to find a FWD DSM locally. I was waiting over a year for one and this thing came along. I guess I was really out of it!

It loves to grind 3rd and I am highly concerned that 3rd gear synchro is bad.

I just replaced the master and slave and adjusted the master nut all the way out at the pedal.

Disengagement still happens only about an inch off the floor....and yes I bled the heck out of it.

This has happened to every DSM I have ever owned. I usually weld a nut at the clevis to give the master more extension instead of dropping trannies....right or wrong, this has always worked for me.

However, the grinding 75% of the time going into 3rd gear scares me.

I'd hate to replace clutch, PP and Flywheel only to find out the 3rd gear synchro was bad as well.

I took a picture of the fork position and it looks ok e.g. pointing slightly towards the drivers side, but the picture is deceptive for sure due to the angle etc.

I'll post them at some point. Any suggestions in the meantime? If I must replace Clutch, PP, Flywheel, how do I know that I won't be putting it back together only to find that 3rd gear is screwed??

That would be VERY BAD.


Previous owner advised that he already lost a tranny to the same situation. He replaced it, and nothing changed. He advises he double clutched all the time thereafter to save the tranny, but I have no way of knowing for sure whether or not the trans is "SAFE".

I don't know what to make of this! I like the car, I don't want it to become another parts car.

Thanks!
 

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Update.
I was working on the car with the front 2 wheels jacked up and noticed that the front two wheels were turning slowly at idle...even in neutral!

How is that possible?

An answer might help me understand what I might be in for!

Thanks!
 
Couldn't edit the first post, but I think that I forgot to mention that the pedal does have like 1 inch free play at the top. In other words, the pedal can be pulled another inch when it is at it's resting point.

Starting to wonder if I bought a crankwalked car!!
 
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The 3rd gear synchro is probably junk. What clutch is in it? how much travel does it have at the slave cylinder?

Make sure it has a 3/4 bore slave. The fwd or n/t cars got a 13/16's and it can cause release issues.

I'm not gonna lie, I drill a .5" hole in the bottom of my bellhousing so I can look in and see how much air gap the clutch has when released.
 
The 3rd gear synchro is probably junk. What clutch is in it? how much travel does it have at the slave cylinder?

Make sure it has a 3/4 bore slave. The fwd or n/t cars got a 13/16's and it can cause release issues.

I'm not gonna lie, I drill a .5" hole in the bottom of my bellhousing so I can look in and see how much air gap the clutch has when released.
Thanks for coming by to post!

I bought a master/slave set from Exedy after tons of research.

Searching the Exedy site gave lots of ambiguous options from vehicle to vehicle and trim to trim.

I like the red pistoned slave as opposed to the green one. This one....well came with a grey one. I'll have to backtrack and see what an SC581 piston comes down to.

I wouldn't be surprised if what I ended up with was a 13/16th green piston since all I ever get to read is that FWD trannies need less throw e.g. 13/16th.

Just FYI, I always buy these Exedy master/slaves as a good alternative to OEM and all has worked well.

I guess that I could try the longer master method just for the heck of it and see if 3rd still grinds if I can get 3 inches of travel before disengagement.

Clutch is unknown, I can see a white pressure plate in there though. I believe my XTD Stage 3 in my GVR4 used a white PP.

Travel, unsure....no friends to help take a look! :(

P.S. Check out the ambiguity:

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications
 
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Well the Exedy SC581 turned out to be a 13/16th piston (silver instead of green piston on this one). :(

I think that a Clutch Masters Clutch is in there.

Anyways, I tried everything. Bled the crap out of it. Red piston slave and extended the master by welding a nut to the clevis pin (to see if buying a 2g Master would be a waste of time). Rebuilt the clutch pedal. It still grinds in 3rd about 50 percent of the time. Cables are adjusted correctly as well.

Better clutch disengagement now, but still grinding.

The only things that I can think of would be bad/wrong shifter brackets at trans. Bad/wrong shifter cables. Pivot ball needs shimmed and/or bad tranny.

Wondering if I should try some synchromesh before dropping the tranny.
 
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