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6bolt bottom on 2g?

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lauj2gdsm

20+ Year Contributor
326
2
Jan 16, 2005
stockton, California
sup.. i just like to ask some question about the 6bollt short block in a 2g. well first off can i use my 2g parts such as altenator, power steering ect.. on the bare 6 bolt block? because the swap will just be the bare block. everthing else i want to keep 2g.
 
lauj2gdsm said:
sup.. i just like to ask some question about the 6bollt short block in a 2g. well first off can i use my 2g parts such as altenator, power steering ect.. on the bare 6 bolt block? because the swap will just be the bare block. everthing else i want to keep 2g.

You will have to have the head machine to fit the bigger head bolts, but everything else should bolt up. I hop eyou mean you are usign the 6 bolt short block and not just the 6 bolt block.
 
yes thats right just the bottom. because i want to keep the head and intake manifold just to pass the smog inspections here in california. so you are saying that everthing should work even the oil filter housing?? what about my 2g motor mounts will they also bolt up ???
 
here you go...

some advice and a few things you need and don't need as compared to the list...

you do not need a 1g thermostat housing, neck and water pipe... that should save you clsoe to if not more than 100 bucks.

You do need the 1g rear main seal plate, 1g gasket set, 1g idler arm (not specifically listed and not included in a 1g full timing kit) You need the ARP studs. You can have a machine shop drill them if you are going to have a valve job done at the same time...
I drilled em myself (carefully) with a cordless and a 1/2" bit.

you need everything on the front side of the motor except your 2g mount (modify it) and all your accessorys/pulleys will mount right back up to the 6 bolt.

this means the front case, water pump, oil pump, pan etc etc etc. You can reuse the 2g oil pickup but i figured why when a new one was not that expensive.


As far as reusing the 2g tstat and pipe, you will need a water return line for the turbo... either tit in on the water/oil cooler line at the t stat housing, OR it has been suggested to drill and tap the block...
I chose option 1... :thumb:

And for the oil cooler, the cheapest option is to reuse the cooler (clean it out please!!!) on a 1g 91 oil filter mount with a new o ring... I got mine from JNZ...

Be careful most oil pumps come with the gears... i did not see them and paid $54 forthem from JNZ and I also got the tstat housing and water neck for 60+ new when I did not need them at all...
 
Also, being a 95 you will need to get ahold of a 1g CAS sensor to replace your cam and crank sensors.
 
IF you get a 1g oil pan from Slowboy... they are the chinese ones...

strip the paint off the plug and take it off on the bench before you put it in the car...

The Chinese paint over the whole thing meaning the wrench wont fit, and it basically glues it to the pan... and the nut is soft metal not nice and hard like an oem one... I am fighting with mine now trying to get it off the car without completely rounding the head off first...


Oh and black top CAS instead of green top, unless you run DSMlink.
 
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