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683 miles spec 3+ clutch/pp slipping?

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saechao04

15+ Year Contributor
462
3
Aug 8, 2006
portland, Oregon
Searched, hoped it was boost leak, but I think it's my spec 3+ 6 puck clutch slipping after 650 miles of breaking in :notgood:. First 5th gear pull from 65 to 80, will hit 17 psi and the clutch seems to start slipping rpms shoot up, holds boost but feels slow until it grabs again near 6k - 6.5k.:mad: Also could hear a lot of air like its leaking somewhere. Doubt it but could be because it was raining/wet out but I don't think I would be breaking loose my tires in 5th gear with my set up. Didn't feel any torque steer or anything. What do you guys think?

Bleed master, tried to bleed slave a best I could, no shimming, new TOB. I did not adjust the clutch or anything, maybe that explains why it'll slip and then catch?

FP Big28
fp2 cams
stock 450's
stock pump
 
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You just answered you'r own question, you need to adjust you'r clutch pedal for free play at the top. Just search "clutch pedal adjustment" there are plenty of write ups on it. My clutch did the exact same thing when I put it it 2 years ago, little clutch pedal adjustment and problem solved. Just try not to make it slip too much till you get it adjusted, don't wanna glaze you'r clutch disc. GL!
 
Okay attempted to adjust it today, no good! Maybe I'm turning it the wrong way? The way I'm turning it, the thread is going towards the driver seat. only happens at 15+ psi.
 
I broke it in easy for the first ~600 miles with no boost, no launches, no hard pulls. The next 80 miles saw some boost but still no launches and no hard pulls. First pull I did was at 17 lbs of boost and it held, put it 5th gear and did a pull and it slipped, do a little later I did a 5th gear pull and it slipped again. After that I eased it home and adjusted the master cylinder rod and did a 5th gear pull and it slipped again. It's sitting at home now awaiting ever further adjustment.
 
I found a link to that video but the link didn't work. I've only used the information that was on the forums so far. I have not tried to adjust it again yet, might you have a proper working link to the jacks transmission video?
 
Update, I've watch the video 10 times, and adjusted it twice now, it still slips. I don't know if I'm doing it wrong or what. It seems I can push in the slave in with my thumb no matter which way I adjust it. Faulty slave maybe? I plan to get a ss clutch line also and watch the video 5 more times. I'm not losing any fluid either.
 
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Alright it's been a month and I don't want to start another thread. I finally made a boost leak tester and found several big leaks. I tighten them all and put pressure through it again and it held at 15 psi although I was testing at 20 psi. I took it for a short run and i still get the slipping clutch/boost leak feeling. First pull I got to 12 psi before I heard a big *whoosh* sound from under the hood. Then again at 10 psi and now at 8 psi. I have about 1400 miles on the clutch now. I have not smelled the clutch being burnt or anything either. Clutch and slave just replaced also. PCV check valve is on the list to do. So, something causing me to blow out my couplers/clamps or slipping clutch? Could a bad wastegate cause the big *whoosh* of air? Can a slipping clutch cause the big *whoosh* of air?
 
It could. Think of boosting and taking your foot off the pedal..."wooosh". Now, instead, push in the clutch... "woosh". So if your clutch is slipping that badly I'd imagine you could expect a "woosh".
 
Sounds like you still don't have the master cylinder rod adjusted properly. If you can still push the the slave rod in by hand, no matter which way you adjust it, you haven't adjusted things properly or you have an issue with your master which doesn't seem to be a common problem (well a leaking master can be a common issue but probably not related to this). Though, while your at it have you checked the master for leaks? Is the boot on the firewall dry (inside the car side) & if looks good, gently pull off the boot, just to verify its dry inside as well.

If you adjust the master rod enough, it should eventually cover the port & prevent you from compressing the slave by hand.
 
I followed the video from jacks and bought and replaced both slave and master and replaced my clutch line with a ss one, both slave and master are OEM from the dealership. No leaks anywhere, I think what I am going to do tomorrow is gravity bleed the system for a while, then re adjust the master cylinder again and see what happens. Along with another boost leak test and bleeding it again. If all else fails I will be ordering a new clutch/pp. Any suggestions? I don't think I'll be getting another spec setup.
 
I followed the video from jacks and bought and replaced both slave and master and replaced my clutch line with a ss one, both slave and master are OEM from the dealership. No leaks anywhere, I think what I am going to do tomorrow is gravity bleed the system for a while, then re adjust the master cylinder again and see what happens. Along with another boost leak test and bleeding it again. If all else fails I will be ordering a new clutch/pp. Any suggestions? I don't think I'll be getting another spec setup.

I had a Clutchmasters FX300 which I would say is like an ACT 2600 with street disc. Never heard of any issues with them so I ordered a fx400
 
Update:

Well, did another boost leak test and found 5 leaks, 2 major ones. One big one is at the blow-off valve. Fixed all of them except the bov and took it for a spin and it held 12 psi through out the rpm. Did another pull tonight and it will do the same thing again. Boost to 12 psi then rpm's shoot up, then around 6k grabs hard and psi is around 20. I will re adjust the clutch again next week and will probably be ordering a new clutch and pp.
 
Update again: I checked my reciept from slowboy and it says I got the lighten pressure plate, which probably means less clamping force. I did not ask for a lighten pressure plate and I've tried 7 times contacting slowboy and spec to no avail. I think this is the source of my problems.
 
I don't understand the reason for clutch break in? 5 years ago I put a act 2600pp and street disc in my car, put 25 miles on it and went to the track. Was still working fine 5 years later when I switched to a twin disc!
 
I don't know either, just following the piece of paper my clutch came with LOL. I feel like if it's gonna work, it's gonna work, if not it's not. I'm thinking I just might get an ACT 2600 pressure plate now.
 
I don't know either, just following the piece of paper my clutch came with LOL. I feel like if it's gonna work, it's gonna work, if not it's not. I'm thinking I just might get an ACT 2600 pressure plate now.

Just make sure your flywheel is within specs, or the act could slip too!
 
how about an update - did you figure out the problem with the spec clutch?
 
Here is the update. It was not the Spec clutch or pp fault at all. When I dropped the trans, there was some trans fluid on the clutch and pp. Turns out my input shaft seal broke.
 
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