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6-bolt swap questions (pics)

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97redgsx

15+ Year Contributor
61
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Nov 8, 2006
Medford, Massachusetts
ok ill start off by telling you all that i have read alot into this subject and i have gathered few things to always be held true about a 6-bolt into a 2g car: 1: the engine mount must be modified 2: you must rewire your cam angle sensor and crank sensor 3: you should have dsm link to get rid of random misfire codes.

ok so heres my question. the 6 bolt motor i have came out of a 2nd gen car. well at least im pretty sure it is a six bolt....i mean there are 6 bolts holding the flywheel on...as seen here:

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now i have noticed that the motor does not have the "notch" in the motor mount to allow for clearance on the water pump. heres a pic of the timing side of the motor:

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im not sure, maybe its is some combination of 1g and 2g parts.... and i am sure it came out of a 2nd gen car, i removed it myself....my main concern is that maybe the last person who worked on it may have put 2g parts on without the proper modification....

any and all input is welcome...thanks!
 

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very good point actually....anybody on here work at a mitsu dealer and could perhaps get me a discount??
 
Ok, I went to roadraceengineering yesterday and talked to Robert. Hey told me that Mitsubishi OEM is the only way to go. They are proven parts and we all know how much they can handle. The others brands don't have the extensive track record of Mitsubishi parts.

Now, with that being said. If you don't have the money to afford Mitsu parts or you just want to try something else, then its on you. I did the same thing when I got my motor from karking. The cool thing for me is that I have another 6 bolt motor that only needs some new pistons and some machine work and that one will be ready to go. Oh, and it is a pure mitsubishi motor (with the squirters still in =) ).
 
whats the deal with the oil squirters?? mine had them still installed should i remove them??? what are the benefits of doing this??? i have heard people mention taking them out. but never knew why!
 
Keep the squirters in. Karking sells the N/T blocks that are converted to turbo but, w/o the squirters. Without them you have higher oil pressure to the rest of the motor. With them, you have better piston cooling.

Magnus Motorsports has a whole tech artical on Crank-Walk and it talks about the squirters in the later part of the tech artical.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/crankwalk.htm
Read up on it and you decide. But, I say keep them in.
 
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