6 Bolt Swap Problems

[Gomes]

Finished a 6 bolt swap and everything seemed to be going well. Until it was time to do the fine tuning.

So here's what I am currently running

6 bolt completely stock engine, minus arp head studs.
All new gaskets top to bottom
450cc injectors
Walbro 255 HP
BarryGrant FPR - set @ 43psi
HKS Turbo Timer
NGK AFX
20psi boost gauge.
Stock Intercooler (2g)
14b turbo (boost to 14 psi in 1st & 2nd, spikes to 17-20 between 3rd - 5th leans out to 13-15)

What I've done.

Boost leak test with soapy water.
Fixed leaks on TB Shaft
BISS screw
new bov gasket(1g)
sealed all joints on LICP & UICP (2.5")
new TB gaskets.
No more vacuum leaks... That are visible hissing from turbo
holds boost upto 20psi drop to 10psi fairly quick 10-15 seconds and leaks down from 10-0 relatively slow. About 30-45 second.
New silicone hoses complete
New vacuum lines (Taboo speed shop routing for 2g)
EGR Is recirculated all stock sensors are plugged in.
EVAP is not connected into any vacuum.
Injectors have new seals
New intake gasket.

MDP system malfunction

Everything was torqued to specs according to Hanes Manual.

Scanned the computer and came up with codes:
P0135 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0141 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P1400 - MDP system malfunction
P0446 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control
P1105 - Fuel Pressure Solenoid Malfunction.
P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circut Malfunction
P0160 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0150 - O2 Sensor Circut Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Most of those are emissions which have been removed. The O2s I m not sure about. Is there even a bank 2? I only have two O2s on the car one on O2 housing and one on the exhaust which is for the NGK AFX if there was a cat is would be pre cat. I've done a google search for the O2 and nothing into what I m looking for mostly European cell phone crap.

With computer plugged in and car idling this is the readings I m getting.

O2 B1 S1 1.27V
STF 4.67%
O2 B1 S2 0.04V
STF 0%
Calculated load between 25-31%
ST Fuel Trim 25%
LT Fuel Trim 0%
Engine Speed 714-906
Ignition Timing 3*-14*
Air Intake Temp 33*C
MAF 3.18g/s -3.6g/s
Tps 0%
AFR on AFX was 13.41 - 14.8
WR on HKS was 12.7-13.8
Vacuum is between 10-20

When it's cold it runs fine, it will stay steady at 20 vacuum but rpms will be at 1000-1200.

I've been trying to fine tune the car to run how it should be but it's been like 5 days of adjusting idle, boost leak tests rebuilding throttle body. I've had the car for a year 2.4 was toast due to PO installing stock valve seals on dual spring setup. Bought a new engine and getting 2.4L built from old engine in 2.0l and haven't even had a chance to enjoy the car. Already over 20k into car. Just had enough. Need Help.

Thanks.

 

[Gomes]

I replaced the wideband o2 and still car runs like a bag of dead rabbits. At idle the ngk afx is staying at 16 which is lean? But still smells like its running rich fuel pressure is.43 psi and still won't run with a shit.

 

[miguelmcv]

What are you using for tunning?,
Post a log so we can see what's going on, It will tell more then you can explain.

You are saying at idle runs OK, But when warm what it does?, How it feels?, does it spatters?, backfires?.

Give us more details on what's going on with your car,

 

[Gomes]

I m not using anything for tuning. I m using a stock ecu. It's just a straight 6 bolt swap. The ecu is from an auto eclipse GST spyder. I have aem ems but I need a stock computer for emissions. The idle is okay but a bit high if I adjust the throttle with the BISS it goes down but then runs rough. When driving it leans out at idle it runs rich 12s. For the O2s I installed a new wide band and they read

O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 is at .48v
O2 bank 1 Sensor 2 is at 1.27v

I scanned it again and it came up with codes:
P0135 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0141 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

But the heaters are working. I took out both and turn the key to on and both heat up. I recalibrated the wide band to NGK Specifications.

I did another boost leak test with the engine hot and holds the boost very well.

It's doesn't back fire or sputter. The vacuum will fluctuate it will stay at 20 for a while and the. It drops to 12-10???

No random misfire codes either

 

[Gomes]

NEED HELP! I'm fed up with this damn car any input would be good!

 

[miguelmcv]

Well, All what I can see from what you have posted is, You don't have a catalytic converter and you are not using the stock rear O2 sensor which that make the car to give you some crap, You are using a stock ECU, so the ecu is not able to ignore the rear O2 sensor,.

However, we need more info on what the car does exactly, You are saying it idles good then vacuum comes down, but how it runs when driving?.

You have a wideband, where it is the sensor located at?.
is it at the rear?.

Give us more details, have you test the Idle Control Sensor to see if it is working?.
Also, some times the throttle body leaks from the FLAV, is the lower part of the throttle body, if it's leaking, it gives a rough idle and some times is not steady, the leak will not show on a boost leak though.

 

[Gomes]

Well, All what I can see from what you have posted is, You don't have a catalytic converter and you are not using the stock rear O2 sensor which that make the car to give you some crap, You are using a stock ECU, so the ecu is not able to ignore the rear O2 sensor,.

However, we need more info on what the car does exactly, You are saying it idles good then vacuum comes down, but how it runs when driving?.

You have a wideband, where it is the sensor located at?.
is it at the rear?.

Give us more details, have you test the Idle Control Sensor to see if it is working?.
Also, some times the throttle body leaks from the FLAV, is the lower part of the throttle body, if it's leaking, it gives a rough idle and some times is not steady, the leak will not show on a boost leak though.

Wideband is 24 inches down from turbo (as NGK AFX SPECS)

Rebuilt entire throttle body all seals.

Haven't Test ISC seems to be working but would be worth a shot.

Found a crack in exhaust manifold replaced it with fp manifold and 20g until I can get a tune. And throw in my 880s and running my FMIC instead of the SMIC.

Going to test injectors aswell. Other than that fresh out of ideas