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6 bolt oil squirters in 2.3

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gorf

20+ Year Contributor
673
16
Dec 13, 2004
Chapel hill, North Carolina
I have my tranny out for a new clutch and noticed oil seeping in the corner of my oil pan so I dropped it to fix it. In the bottom of my oil pan are four destroyed hollow tubes along with a bunch of metal shaving. Yup looks like my oil squirters got clobbered.

This is a six bolt 2.3 bottom end with a seven bolt head. The front oil housing is machined so I am using the crank angle sensor and 2g oil pan. No balance shafts. It was built by Showdown motorsports.

Do I need to replace the squirters and what would cause them to be banged off in the first place?

Found this while researching:
Magnus Motorsports » Crankwalk Theory

Instead taking from what we had done before we eliminated the squirters’ altogether. We had been doing this for some time now in race motors to eliminate the possibility of windage, small loss of power due to oil being squirt onto the rods and pistons. Many V-tec honda motors have them welded up to take advantage of this effect. Now before you all jump out and say “we need the squirter”, take this into account, I have heard of many cases of the squirters’ on 1g’s breaking off and falling into the oil pan because of harsh vibration (out of phase balance shafts), we have even seen them in person, doing oil changes, and dropping oil pans.

So should I replace them, and where is the best place to get them?
 
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OK since no one seems to know the answer here, I found some information.

General consensus is there is no problem if you want to block off the squirters - except for greatly increased oil pressure. I could not find anyplace that sold 1g squirters, however evo 8/9 squirters are reported to work in 6 bolt block and are shorter so should be less likely to crack off due to vibration.

Oil Jet = MD329806

Or to block off

It's a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. You'll need a bolt that is 10mm long and you won't have a problem working around the rotating assembly with the engine still in the car and laying on your back.

Evo squirters available at dsm graveyard, but they had no idea that Evo squirters would even work.

dsmgraveyard part number
mnm143460
DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!
 
Here is the reason my oil squirters failed in my 6 bolt/2g piston build.

2g pistons 6 bolt oil squirters

Pictures/thread sums it up quite well. I just got done doing a rebuild and 1g/2g pistons need that oil up there for the wrist pin so I decided against blocking it off. But what I did instead was get the evo squirters, they are slightly angled and a little shorter than the stock 6 bolt one so there should be no piston contact.
 
If you're using floating pin forged pistons in a race application, -like the Manley stroker bits listed in your profile; I'd block the holes, skip the Evo squirters and instead step straight up to a good high quality oil cooler.

Oiling is much more critical on stock style press-fit wrist pins. Cast pistons will also gain a justifiable measure of durability from the squirter oil cooling them off as well. However, floating pins suffer less stress, most forged rods have dedicated wrist pin oil passages, and forged pistons are specifically designed to handle the high pressure and temperature.

An oil cooler will go a longer distance toward keeping the engine happy than the updated squirters.
 
Thanks for the replies.

My concern is exacty what ziggo pointed out. With 100mm stroke I have no idea what kind of clearance that I have.

I have ordered the squirters so I guess I'll be the fit tester.

I'll also check into an oil cooler, anything that might make the engine last a little longer.
 
I have ordered the squirters so I guess I'll be the fit tester.

I'll also check into an oil cooler, anything that might make the engine last a little longer.

I knew I should've taken some pictures with the evo squirters in. It's definitely the fix - you'll notice right away. Just make sure when you torque them down that they torque straight and not cocked to the side a little - you'll see what I mean.
 
i used the evo oil squirters in my 2.3 with an eagle weisco combo. lots of people told me i didnt need them but i like cooler piston tops and extra oil sprayin on the rods and crank. I also run a cooler. I also never had to grind the main caps for rod clearance, did you?
 
My first time around with the 2.3 I manipulated the squirters so they cleared the piston skirts and crank counterweights. This was semi-ok but when I pulled that motor down to check everything out it appeared as if there was still some contact happening. Second time I notched the piston skirts to provide the necessary clearance and re-balanced everything. I've seen stroker pistons for other platforms come out of the factory with the notch in the skirt. That seemed like the best solution to me and so far so good.
 
Got my Evo Squirters, with Manley pistons and 100mm crank they did not hit the skirt of the piston , but they were close, about .005. I clamped them between two boards so not to mar the surfaces and bent them slightly up away from the piston. Using a wire feeler gauge, I set them at .050 clearance.

First picture shows a 1g and an Evo Squirter.

In the second Picture, the bottm is as received, the top one is tweeked for a little additional clearance, notice the angle of the squirter points outward a little further.
Last picture is with them installed.
 

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I finished my 2.3 build a couple weeks ago using the evo oil squirters as well. I had to bend them very slightly and set mine to have 0.040" clearance from both the crankshaft counterweights and piston. During the low amount of miles I have put on the motor thus far, they seem to be working perfectly like stock.

Blocking them off was a last resort for me. Yes, motors have been run without them, and yes, you don't have to worry about them getting knocked off. But if you do it correctly, and check for clearance, oil squirters offer plenty of benefits that are worth the added hassle to put them in.

....in my opinion.
 
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