6 bolt head swap not running right.

[redline7]

ok so I just did a 6 bolt head swap and the car is running horrible. The first time I drove the car it made it 2 blocks down and died when I was on a slight hill. I pushed it home and checked my new spark plugs and did a compression test. My cp ranged from 123 psi to 152 psi. (old block with worn rings) Spark plugs for cyl 1&4 was dry and black with a shade of white. Cyl 2&3 was wet and fully black. After I clean the plugs and re-install them the car started roughly and idled fine. I park the car afterwards to do some more testing but I could use some help guys.

 

[USER_22]

Are you running a logger on it while it's running?

 

[donniekak]

Did you switch the injector pins?

 

[USER_22]

Did you switch the injector pins?

I was going to ask the same thing, but I figured he did.

 

[redline7]

I was going to ask the same thing, but I figured he did.

well I just finished the swap so I didn't switch the pins yet. I am going outside to do it now. also would this be signs of a faulty coolant temp sensor? I dont have a logger or any scan tools so I cant read my cel light yet. I know I have a rear o2 code.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

No, usually a dead coolant temperature sensor will NOT allow the car to even start. Since you just didn a semi-major job, I would just go over everything you touched. It's usually something very simple, so start with the basics and move from there. Did you set the CAS in the center and then adjust ignition timing once the system was fully heated?

 

[redline7]

update... well I did the injector wire swap and drove the car around the block a few times reving to 2,500. It idles fine but bogs hard and starts to die whenever I start to get on it or whenever i am going up hill. I am gonna try to get my hands on a scan tool and pull some codes.

 

[redline7]

ok I pulled codes and came up with rear o2 and evap purge. I have a egr block off and emissions disabled so the evap isnt gonna work. The car wont rev past 4500 rpm standing still. It will just cut out and die if I dont try to smooth it out with the throttle. I also have a smoke show from my exhaust. Its white/blueish. Might be the valve seals in this new head.

 

[redline7]

another update. I wired up the 1g cam sensor to the 2g crank ( I only had it to the 2g cam) The car starts and runs better. I drove the car around for a while but the car stutters hard after afew pounds of boost. It still stalls and is very hard to restart afterward.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

The 1G cam sensor effectively eliminates the use of both the factory 2g cam and crank sensors. What diagram did you use to do this conversion? Magnus' writeup?

Did you set the ignition timing ?

 

[redline7]

The 1G cam sensor effectively eliminates the use of both the factory 2g cam and crank sensors. What diagram did you use to do this conversion? Magnus' writeup?

Did you set the ignition timing ?

yeah I re-wired everything to how magnus says to do it for a full 6 bolt swap. I believe either my turbo seals are leaking or valve seals and its messing up my a/f ratios

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Ok, for the THIRD time, did you set your ignition timing? If your base ignition timing is off, it can cause the problems you are stating.

*If you don't know what I'm talking about, I'll outline the process for you and for future searches*

1. Use whiteout or mark the crank pulley notch
2. Warm up car one full cycle (fans automatically turn on and off)
3. Ground timing connector pin (located near battery, I believe it is brown)
4. Loosen CAS bolts and set to middle of adjustment range
5. Use inductive timing light to figure out where the ignition timing lies (-15 to +15*). Adjust to 5* BTDC
6. Tighten CAS
7. Recheck ignition timing
8. Un-ground the connector

 

[redline7]

Ok, for the THIRD time, did you set your ignition timing? If your base ignition timing is off, it can cause the problems you are stating.

*If you don't know what I'm talking about, I'll outline the process for you and for future searches*

1. Use whiteout or mark the crank pulley notch
2. Warm up car one full cycle (fans automatically turn on and off)
3. Ground timing connector pin (located near battery, I believe it is brown)
4. Loosen CAS bolts and set to middle of adjustment range
5. Use inductive timing light to figure out where the ignition timing lies (-15 to +15*). Adjust to 5* BTDC
6. Tighten CAS
7. Recheck ignition timing
8. Un-ground the connector

ok I don't have a timing light so I was gonna get the car in good shape so I can drive it to my mechanic's shop to use his light. not to switch subject but the car was smoking blue oil smoke yesterday mostly at idle and when I rev it. Now this morning I warmed the car up some and made a short drive and noticed no smoke at all. It also picked up more boost with no noticable hesitation.