420a tranny grinding noise

[TwistedGST]

Ok so I have a problem with my tranny..I just my tranny replace like a few weeks ago....when I turn the car on in the mornings it makes this grinding noise sounds like a coffe maker...if I press the clutch in it goes away...but then after like 5-10 min when the car is wormed up the noise goes away completely weather I push the clutch in or not....when I drive the car it drives like new shifts smooth everything good......but just when its cold it grinds in nuetrual....I'm not sure what oil was put in it...but I'm thinking that might be it.....I really need help trying to figure this out...so if you have had this problem or know what could be wrong with the tranny ### help thx for reading...

 

[AlphaAssault]

Sorry I dont have an answer for you, but im having the exact same problem with my 1990 GSX. With mine, it only makes the noise when its cold, and the car has been sitting for over a day. Ive scoured this forum looking for an answer, but no one can seem to agree on what the noise is. The most common explanations were that the TOB needs grease/was never greased when it was replaced, or it might be the input shaft bearing. From what I have read, and someone correct me if im wrong, the grinding is more of a nuisance than an actual problem. Several members claim they have been hearing this noise for over a year with no ill side effects. If the noise just comes and goes, like what my car does, I wouldnt worry about it. tell me if you find out what is actually causing the noise though, Id be interested in knowing whats causing it.

 

[TwistedGST]

I've taken it to the shop like three times they replaced my head gasket....and when I got it back now it redlines at 5 thousend rpm it didn't dew that before...the mechanic said that these cars arent ment to go more thatn 5 thou rpm and I think he don't know what he's talking about ### before he replaced the head gasket it was pritty fast I beat a 95 gst but now it dies when it hits five...if you know why or had this promblem let me now......as far as the tranny I took it back ### of the grinding noise...they tight up my shifter ### they said it was really loose...so now the shift are better.....they said they changed sum bushing and house of the tranny.....they called me and said hey your car is rwady we took care of the grainding noise...I drive it home park it in my garage.....next morning I turn it on and still makes that noise....this sux I mean I can probly fix it myself but I have warranty so I'd rather get it fixed for free.....I'm gonna take it to the shop again and tell them to grease up the TOB...and well see what happends

 

[vernvision]

It sounds like you are right about where you are taking it they don't know what they are doing. I have been down that road and a word of advice is that more damage can be done by someone who doesn't know what they are doing by fare. I don't think that you should ignore sounds like you are describing with your clutch. I have owned these vehicles for 18 years and I have never heard that with any clutch ever that I or someone else has installed. My question is did they replace the bearing or not if not then it could be sticking. It also could be a lot worse like being out of alignment or something wasn't installed correctly. Shifting problems can be anything from the Master cylinder or slave to a bent fork or worse like stuff coming loose inside. I have had 1 of these completely blow a hole through the side cover where I was watching in my rear view mirror parts going out the back of the car. It is not good with these cars to ignore anything unless you are experienced with them. The trannys are weak and need to be modded with more than 325 HP or they will fail quite rapidly. I am having trouble again with mine and it started with the MC and now I think there is some stuff loose in it again. I am on my 4th tranny in my 93 and 5th transfer case since I bought it new in 93. I go the cheap route and put about 400hp on it and they last maybe 25,000 miles before 3rd gear fries. I would try and find someone else to look at it for you if you don't know what you are doing.

About the 5000 rpm redline. That is a load of crap unless they replaced your ECU with a socketed ECU and had someone rechip it with a lower redline which would make absolutely no sense at all. The redline is set stock at 7000 rpm. You are probably getting fuel cut or another problem like that. Check your oil and coolant for signs of contamination. I would be very leary of anything this shop has done and I would suspect that they may not have installed your head and or intake, TB, vaccum lines if running stock, etc. correctly. I cannot begin to tell you how many shops out there do not know how to work on these and other turbo imports. They following alldata or something like that like it is a bible , use irtools on aluminum parts and screw your car up and charge you to boot.These people will soak you for a ton of money and never get your beast running right. These cars require a lot of TLC and even stock have engineering issues that must be addressed or you will be nickel and dimed to death. You should get yourself a service manual so you can understand a bit more then you will know when the work is being done wrong. Just my 2 1/2 cents worth.

 

[TwistedGST]

I fixed the redline problem it was just a fuel cut.....I cleaned my fuel system and changed my fuel filter....now it runs like a champ....is there a way to figure out if your fork is bent with out taking off the tranny?......because the first tranny that I had in it........ blew a couple of holes where the axels connect....like you said man I saw gears all over the street.....I feel like its sumten more serious then just the TOB needing sum lube.....it feels like sumten in the tranny is loose...or it has cheap ass oil or even not enough oil.....I'm taking it in again on monday becuase this is bull even tho I aint paying to get it fixed the warrenty is.....but we will seem what happends......

 

[vernvision]

Yeah you can look at it under the car. It is where the slave pushes its piston against. It should be fairly straight or sitting toward the drivers side if looking at it forward. If it is sitting toward the passenger side then you have an issue. If you can take a photo of it I can tell you better. It is rare to bend these but over time I have heard they fatigue and can bend. I have always replaced mine everytime I do a clutch more for the ball joint fitting allowing play. Yeah it ain't right to be hearing any noise. I use an ACT 2600 clutch and I have not had a problem with my fork ever (knocking on wood). These big clutches are hard on the hydraulics though. Make sure the slave cylinder is not leaking or sticking. The other problem people have when doing clutch jobs are getting all the air out of the system. I had a friend who had to take his car back 3 times to get all the air out of the system. They kept telling him it was out. Once the car warmed up then it was back to grinding gears. Seems the fluid gets hot making the air expand in the system causing the pedal to have more play hence more air to compress.

 

[TwistedGST]

I just checked the fork...its leaning towards to driver side.....question.....I know this is gonna sound dumb but the fork is supose to vibrate when the car is on right...just double checking.....my clutch feels good I don't think there's air I it.....hey what would you recomend for suspention springs I got kyb struts the gr2's....I want a good lowering kit...I have coilovers right now its bounces to much I'm not sure what brand they are but I'm asuming there those cheap ass ebay ones....

 

[vernvision]

The fork should not be loose at all at least on my car it is tight.

I have used KYB's. They are decent for the price but I haven't messed with the suspension much yet. The coil over is designed to give you alot more traction pushing your wheel to the ground. If you have a worn out strut then it might also be giving you too much spring rate. Usually the cheap coil overs loose the springyness to them and won't be as stiff as you might like. People I know that use coil overs general drop there cars a couple of inches which tightens things up a bit because of lessing the distance of travel. If you got the money you might step up to like Koni or equivalent struts they are really stiff but you will riding like your on an old straight axel hog. I know that you can get coil overs starting at $100 and go all the way to $500+ per wheel so usually what you spend is what you get. I need to get new springs and struts myself but I am on a budget right now so I will probably go with the KYB strut again.

 

[WestTx420aTuner]

I too would like to know this. My car has done the exact same thing for about 2years. I have tried a new master and slave cylinder, new clutch w/ pressure plate. I noticed that there is little piece of metal that holds the throw out bearing in place that was broken. Could it just be the throw our bearing sliding back and forth?