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420A Oil Consumption

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well i finalized the deal with one of my fellow co-workers: he has a 1st gen turbo w/ a minimal amount of shaft-play, O2 housing, and SMIC that he said he'd part with for $175. I guess he should have been thanking me though - it was supposed to go on his Honda, LOL. Then he told me his friend might be getting him a B18C1 Type-R motor :( .
 
Anyways, so you have an ignition problem? Best thing to do in your situation is to gap the plugs to spec. not .010 over, that can only add to the problem.

As for the silicone, it's a great sealer when used with the proper gasket. Don't get me wrong you still have to have the gasket in place, but it's recommended to use silicone in atleast the corners of the surface. That's how it was done on my car :thumb:
 
...if you actually read the manual or proper procedure, you have to use some sealant on certain parts of the mating surface :thumb: ...and please gap your plugs correctly.
 
sorry guys but i think i'll trust one of my ASE certified associates and go with his suggestion to gap them over the reccomended gap.
 
.010 over the rec. gap isnt enough to make it burn too hot, but enough to help with the massive oil burn-off i have. and besides i get spark-plugs a dime a dozen.
 
as for the silicone thing - i meant he basically put silicone on the rubber gasket like you would on a cork gasket. i guess i should have been more precise, sorry. alright back on topic. i thought that 420A's with factory internals could only handle 7 or 8psi ?
 
4UH8ERS said:
and if you decide to stay stock they got the stock bottom end rebuild kit for only 320.00 and you can handle boost up to 9psi np on a rebuild with stock internals.

9psi np (no problem) would lead someone to believe that its possible to reach even 10 or 11psi. or is that just my take on it.
 
They can handle 10psi on stock internals just fine. It's just that people begin to notice fuel problems at around 8psi because that's when their FMUs stop managing fuel so well.
 
i wasnt going to use an FMU. i was going to completely redo my entire fuel sytem. ive got an Aeromotive Fuel Pump, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (that rises on a 1:1 ratio with boost), stainless braided hoses, fuel rail from a turbo, and stock 2G turbo injectors. And yes i know that the turbo fuel rail wasnt designed to fit on our motor, getting that covered as we speak.
 
Why would you use a 2G turbo fuel rail then? The injectors will physically fit your stock rail just fine, but you'll need a resistor pack to adapt their low impedance injectors to our high impedance system.

And I'd stick with a Walbro 190 or 255 fuel pump; the Aeromotives are unnecessarily expensive.


Your set up may work, but I'm not sure that the stock 2G turbo injectors, coupled with a 1:1 AFPR will give you enough fuel. In any case, I'd invest in an EGT or wideband O2 system to monitor your AFR; if you lean out, you'll certainly want to know before you damage the block.
 
gottalovenewage said:
as for the silicone thing - i meant he basically put silicone on the rubber gasket like you would on a cork gasket. i guess i should have been more precise, sorry. alright back on topic. i thought that 420A's with factory internals could only handle 7 or 8psi ?

this guy mike i know ran 16lbs of boost on his all stock motor with over 100k miles on it. The motor actually took the beating for a whole year before he blew a piston. This by the way is a story NOT ADVICE. I would recommend around 9 psi on stock internals.
 
gottalovenewage said:
i wasnt going to use an FMU. i was going to completely redo my entire fuel sytem. ive got an Aeromotive Fuel Pump, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (that rises on a 1:1 ratio with boost), stainless braided hoses, fuel rail from a turbo, and stock 2G turbo injectors. And yes i know that the turbo fuel rail wasnt designed to fit on our motor, getting that covered as we speak.

So are you setting up secondary injectors or just replacing your current OEM setup? Sounds like you're building a portfooler...
 
..wasn't the topic of this thread oil consumption haha
 
it was about oil until you all convinced me to go turbo for sure, LOL. i was told that the 2g turbo rail had a larger bore. the stock 2g turbo injectors are good for 300HP and they use a FPR that is set at a 1:1 ratio as well, i thought the first gen injectors were low impedence and the 2nd gen were high impedence. i also hope that the guy thats been teaching me about DSM's is feeding me correct info, tell if im wrong cause i dont want to go on with the incorrect facts.
 
1G or 2G... they're both low impedance.

Your stock fuel rail will work fine; trying to adapt the 4G63 rail to our cars will just make unnecessary headaches.

By the way, I see what you're trying to do; but you can't replicate the turbo model fuel system for use in our cars. A Walbro, 1:1 AFPR, and bigger injectors are a good place to start, but your ECU won't be able to compensate for the greater fuel need while under boost. You'll either need mechanical means of dumping more fuel (a 12:1 FMU, etc.), or electronic means (Megasquirt, PortFueler, etc.).
 
ok so then i need to find some saturated injectors, i think Hahn Racecraft has 500's for about $65 each. the fuel pump i have now is good for up to 500HP on turbo applications. what is your fuel pressure at full boost? and whats wrong with running too lean, its just going to scar my cylinders a little bit, LOL. my friends supposed to be getting me a deal on a UEGO.
 
gottalovenewage said:
ok so then i need to find some saturated injectors, i think Hahn Racecraft has 500's for about $65 each. the fuel pump i have now is good for up to 500HP on turbo applications. what is your fuel pressure at full boost? and whats wrong with running too lean, its just going to scar my cylinders a little bit, LOL. my friends supposed to be getting me a deal on a UEGO.

Yeah, it will scar your cylinders a little, maybe a little heat increase, maybe a cracked piston, maybe even a hole in your block. No biggie :p
 
gottalovenewage said:
and whats wrong with running too lean, its just going to scar my cylinders a little bit, LOL.

Wow... You run your AFR too lean and tell me what happens. I like a fully intact and running motor, so I'll stick with running a little rich.


Your fuel system plans are coming along: injectors; AFPR; Walbro. But you're still neglecting the means to control those injectors. You'll need Megasquirt or AEM EMS, etc..
 
i would like to find a good one that will grow with my engine. any suggestions? ive been looking at the AEM Injector Driver, has anybody heard anything about them?
 
Just go with the megasquirt and be done with it :thumb:

You'll be able to run whatever size injectors you want (high or low impedance), control timing down the road, and just about every other aspect into tuning that you'll ever want. There is a vast of knowledge on here and http://www.2gnt.com/ and a bunch of us who are willing to help. Make sure to ask any questions you may have...and don't forget that many 4g63 guys may say they know a lot, but our cars are most definitely different in many ways, so make sure to check with us if you have any concerns.
 
2 more questions and i should be good to go. Is Callies the only one who offers a forged crank thats not a stroker, if not then who else does? And ive read that the stock crank can handle 500HP, how long can it sustain that amount of power?
 
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