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2gb modification help

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nsgk53

10+ Year Contributor
96
2
Sep 28, 2011
lith, Illinois
I have a 98 eclipse gsx 5 speed built day is march 1988 and the body has about 132k miles. The motor had some work done to the top end this is what is done to it :
Brian crower 272 cams
BC valve springs
Supertech valves
Top line lifters
New oem head gasket
Arp head studs
Adjustable cam gears
Arp cam bolts
New ngk plugs and wires
New slave cylinder
New front axles
STM intake adapter and filter
STM EGR delete
STM balance shaft eliminator kit
Also has a SRS full exhaust with no cat.
Has stock turbo, injectors, tubular manifold and side mount. Will be looking into getting those upgraded soon.
Top end has about 150 miles on it. Bottom end needs rebuilding. Have a place in mind and for $1500 I can get it mild built. My question is should I do 6 bolt bottom end and build that, stay with the 7 bolt bottom end and build it or get the revised 7 bolt bottom end and build that? Goal for right now is 400hp will maybe in the future go up to 600hp but if not 500. My gsx is a dd so not looking to build it for the track. Might see the track once or twice. Plus I kind of know what I'm doing it but was do you guys think I should do to the bottom end like part wise. Want options in case there is a better route to go. Thanks for the help in advance. Already went to other forums or read treads on here to get ideas but seen what else you guys recommends with my car has done to it.
 
The 98 had the revised thrust bearing I think. I would stay 7 bolt. They can make plenty of good power. You would have to have your head modified some as well IMO There's too much bs to go frankenswap on a daily.[DOUBLEPOST=1412486026][/DOUBLEPOST]I would go Eagle or Manley H beam on Weisco HDs. Should be plenty for 500. I am assuming you are looking for 500 @ the wheels? What clutch are you gonna run?
 
The 98 had the revised thrust bearing I think. I would stay 7 bolt. They can make plenty of good power. You would have to have your head modified some as well IMO There's too much bs to go frankenswap on a daily.[DOUBLEPOST=1412486026][/DOUBLEPOST]I would go Eagle or Manley H beam on Weisco HDs. Should be plenty for 500. I am assuming you are looking for 500 @ the wheels? What clutch are you gonna run?

I plan for 400hp for now and then 500hp in the future. My trans is stock but it has a new clutch. If im correct it's an oem clutch. Next year i plan on making my trans stronger for about 500-600hp or getting a shep trans. I know the stock trans will hold up to 400hp and anything more then that ill have problems. what do you mean by ill have my head modified? It already has work done to it like i said above. What exactly you guys think i should do to modify my motor if i stay with a 7 bolt. I have a shop that said for $1500 they can mild build my motor and go with some evo parts and some other aftermarket parts. They asked what i wanted to do with my motor and i said build it for 400hp so they said that would be about $1500 worth of work/parts. Don't remember what route they told me they would go and is best for me but im trying to see what other ideas you guys have for me to go. If i plan to go up to 600hp in the future wouldnt a 6bolt be better then a 7 bolt and i was told 7 bolts are not good for 600 hp. Am i right? ideas and help would be great
 
He means if you plan to use a 6bolt bottom end and a 7bolt head. The head stud holes have to be remmed out about 2mm! Better look into a new clutch setup if u wanna hold any of that power, stocker won't hold crap. Lol you have a 98 revised 7bolt best one out there! And if it's built right it can handle anything you throw at it bro!
 
Manley H beam rods and pistons and Clevite beatings. I would use a new set of stock mains, too. That should handle 500 for a long time. Stay 7 bolt...no need to 6 bolt swap it. I built a 1g 7 bolt motor for my 2g because it was the only usable core I had on hand.
 
If you guys know prices how much you think a shop would charge for the 7 bolt bottom end mild build mods that im looking for with a evo 16g, 550 or 650 injectors, a walley 255 and a nice sized fmic with piping that i can keep my fog lights on my 98 fmic must be name brand and no brands that are on ebay. If you know mechanic prices or own or work at a shop that would be great. If your from Illinois im thinking about taking my car to r&d and have them do the work. Would have boostin performance do the work but they dont do mild builds and a full build by them is about $3500 or more and i know r&d does great work at great prices.[DOUBLEPOST=1412748385][/DOUBLEPOST]Was thinking of going with a Mitsubishi fuso 20g turbo but there hard to find and might have shaft play for sure with high millage
 
I'd say go with a 6 bolt but I'm biased since I have an extra sitting around that needs home LOL. But def address the transmissions weak point mine has crapped out with only 15-25 miles on an OEM clutch with a 20g and supporting mods. But good luck with the build and looks like a solid platform all around! In for updates
 
Here is some advice to keep you happy with your project and save a lot of money while also enjoying a reliable car.
Maintenance first. (ditch that tubular manifold)- At 132k miles, bushings, suspension, and drive train components will show their age.
Decide on your goals.
Follow the numerous mod guides. (in stages)
Decide on a tuning method before you start throwing parts at it. (made no mention of this in the slew of parts).
Max out your current setup before you move forward.
Work up to your 400hp goal in steps to learn about your car.

You will have a reliable running DSM as opposed to a frustrating non-running credit-card build.
 
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