2g trans in a 1g, at wits end. Help!

[SlickPyro]

I would like to start by saying I have read so many threads and my problem is with clutch disengagement. It just won't disengage. Here is the story:

Rebuilt the engine with new clutch and flywheel about 500 miles ago. My 3rd gear synchro was going bad so I decided to buy a 2g trans and tcase from tiger japanese. it was the cheapest way to get a nice trans.

I have a fidanza flywheel with a new surface
A fidanza 2.1 clutch

I put everything together with a new tob and the fork and ball that came with the 2g trans. I also put a new slave from napa on and properly bled the line. I drove it around the block a few times. Then I noticed that the clutch was engaging right off the floor. I put the car on level ground, in first gear, and revved it up. The car crept forwards.

I was thinking that everything was ok so adjusted and checked the pedal. The pedal assembly is fine. Then I noticed that the slave was leaking into the boot.

So I got another from napa and put it on. Car still wouldnt go into gear while running. Car goes into gear when off but not into any gear while running.

Ok so I bought a clutch master from napa and installed that. Still no gear selection while engine running.

Bought the extreme psi master to slave clutch line to replace my stock hard and rubber line. Bled properly and still no gear selection while running.

At this point I decided to pull the trans back out and replace the pivot ball and fork. Everything was replaced and everything was greased up real good.

Put everything back together and the only thing that changed is the shifter will move back twards reverse but it grinds and doesnt fully engage.

I have tried everything I know of to get this to work. Any and all help is appreciated. I had no problems getting the car into any gear before i switched out the transmissions.

Thanks for the help!

 

[rarest_90_DsM]

Did you shim the pivot ball when you have the flywheel resurfaced it moves your disengagement point farther away from the throw out bearing and fork and pivot ball same thing happend to me I shimed the pivot ball and was like butter

 

[twicks69]

Quick questions....What is the part number on your transmission? Please post up a picture of the shift linkage otherwise.

You could be having shift linkage issues due to the differences in shifter linkage arms of the 1G and 2G, and whatever transmission you got from TigerJapanese, hence the reason I asked for the part number on the transmission (W5M33-2-XXXX).

As for the clutch disengagement issues, you have already adjusted the clutch pedal/master cylinder rod towards the firewall to increase pedal throw on the master cylinder? Please take a picture of the clutch fork/bellhousing so we can see where, orientation wise, the clutch fork sits with clutch pedal up, and another with clutch pedal fully pushed down. We can get a better idea to see if these are issues, or if you are having clutch disengagement issues due to the clutch itself. Having disengagement issues from the clutch itself is not uncommon, and it can easily be from variation in step height on the flywheel, disk surface thickness variation, or crappy disengagement springs on the pressure plate.

 

[streetillEagle]

I have had this same issue for years and did all the steps you have done as well with changing out everything. Here's what I did and found out that it does change the engagement point. Adjust the resting position bolt/switch. Where the pedal hits the switch if you have cruise control. Thread that bolt down to kill some length out of how far the pedal comes up from the floor. Now my pedal has a couple about 1 1/2" before engaging. Which is such less an ankle cramp. Hope this works for you.

 

[SlickPyro]

@rarest_90_DsM - Yes the new pivot ball is shimmed.

@twicks69 - I'd have to look at the numbers but I know we have the right shifter arms on there. We switched over the arms from my 1g trans to the one I got from tiger ###.

Yes the pedal is adjusted as high as it will go. It sits higher than the brake pedal.

as it sits with the pedal all the way up the fork sits right in the middle like the rre pic that we all have seen a million times while searching this subject.

It may be the crappy fidanza clutch but It worked just fine before i switched in this new trans.

@streetillEagle - I'll have to look but I think the cruise switch is moved all the way out. The car used to have cruise and now doesn't but I will crawl up under there and look at that.

Thanks for all the help. I will try and take some pics tonight as the car is in my parents garage. I'm sure the apartment that I live at wouldn't want my car up on jackstands in their parking lot

Thanks again for all the quick replies with all the ideas! I hope I can get this figured out. Going to the DSM/EVO shootout just makes me wanna drive my dsm!

 

[BrokenTsi]

@rarest_90_DsM - Yes the new pivot ball is shimmed.

@twicks69 - I'd have to look at the numbers but I know we have the right shifter arms on there. We switched over the arms from my 1g trans to the one I got from tiger ###.

Yes the pedal is adjusted as high as it will go. It sits higher than the brake pedal.

as it sits with the pedal all the way up the fork sits right in the middle like the rre pic that we all have seen a million times while searching this subject.

It may be the crappy fidanza clutch but It worked just fine before i switched in this new trans.

@streetillEagle - I'll have to look but I think the cruise switch is moved all the way out. The car used to have cruise and now doesn't but I will crawl up under there and look at that.

Thanks for all the help. I will try and take some pics tonight as the car is in my parents garage. I'm sure the apartment that I live at wouldn't want my car up on jackstands in their parking lot

Thanks again for all the quick replies with all the ideas! I hope I can get this figured out. Going to the DSM/EVO shootout just makes me wanna drive my dsm!

Where does the clutch fork rest? In the middle? closer towards the engine? or closer to the passenger side?

 

[SlickPyro]

Here are a bunch of photos I just took of a whole bunch of things people asked:

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That is the coding on the trans it reads

W5M332MMZL
ST817G

Which in my research says its an RVR Trans.

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That is the cruise switch which is back all the way out and has been backed all the way out for some time now. (I didnt do this the shell came this way like a year ago)

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That is the adjustment rod and as you can see it is backed all the way out. You cant see any threads on the "inside" (twards the drivers seat).

Picture 1 of the clutch pedal up:

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As you can see the fork sits in the middle and slightly off twards the drivers side which is good. The ball and fork are brand new and the ball is shimmed with one washer.

Picture 2 of the clutch pedal up:

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I also don't know if I have mentioned it or not but yes I do have the extended slave rod.

First picture of the clutch pushed in:

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Another of the clutch pushed in:

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And a final shot with the clutch pushed in:

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Hope this can help sort out some stuff. Thanks for all the ideas and keep them coming! I even took a video of the slave cylinder moving the clutch fork but I have to wait till I get home to upload it from my phone to my own computer. Thanks again for the help!

 

[BrokenTsi]

You can afford to screw that master cylinder rod out of the bracket a solid 2 or 3 full turns. 1/2 a turn on that thing and my pedal is all the way up, or dead on the floor with disengagement issues. I'll bet anything, if you spin that thing couterclockwise a good 2 full turns, it will disengage.

 

[nuclearr]

Have you checked the pedal arm for play they tend to have issues on 1gs.

 

[SlickPyro]

You can afford to screw that master cylinder rod out of the bracket a solid 2 or 3 full turns. 1/2 a turn on that thing and my pedal is all the way up, or dead on the floor with disengagement issues. I'll bet anything, if you spin that thing couterclockwise a good 2 full turns, it will disengage.

I guess I will try that. I even thought about putting a nut on the back side like some people do so they have even more adjustment.

Have you checked the pedal arm for play they tend to have issues on 1gs.

Yes, after pushing my clutch pedal down for five seconds and then letting up i cannot pull up anymore on it. So by all things I have reseached and read it is fine. Believe me I have thought about it because it is the last thing I havent replaced.



Thanks for the help. I am going to upload the video I took to youtube and link to it here so people can see and judge if my fork is moving far enough.

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Here is the video. Idk if this will help or not but its worth a shot. Once again thanks for all the help y'all.

 

[streetillEagle]

That is the cruise switch which is back all the way out and has been backed all the way out for some time now. (I didnt do this the shell came this way like a year ago)

I see from the picture you posted that is exactly how my switch/bolt was at resting position and I removed my cruise as well. Now thread that bolt/switch down all the way and keep the pedal from raising up so high and it should fix your problem (it did for me at least)

 

[SlickPyro]

I see from the picture you posted that is exactly how my switch/bolt was at resting position and I removed my cruise as well. Now thread that bolt/switch down all the way and keep the pedal from raising up so high and it should fix your problem (it did for me at least)

How would that fix my problem? When I push the clutch pedal in the clutch doesn't disengage. The cruise switch is moved all the way out for maximum travel of the clutch pedal. If i move the cruise switch in where it actually pushes on the clutch pedal a bit I don't understand how this would cause the slave and fork to move more for more disengagement... I know it worked for you but I don't understand how it fixes the problem. I mean, I guess I could try it and if it works certain kudos to you. It is certainly something to consider...

 

[BrokenTsi]

Im tellin ya, back out that master cylinder rod. C'mon, hurry up, I want to see if it fixes it.

 

[SlickPyro]

Im tellin ya, back out that master cylinder rod. C'mon, hurry up, I want to see if it fixes it.

Sorry bro not tonight. But I will definitely go adjust it out some more tomorrow after work.

I just don't get why my clutch seemed to by fine before the trans swap but now afterwards its not workin... I just don't get it. I just hope moving the master rod out a few more turns will fix it. And if it does I'm not going to ask any more questions I'll just enjoy my dsm, before something else breaks.

 

[97gstjosh]

haul it to jareds , honestly we have tried everything to make this clutch disengage and it just wont..... alot of nights we left defeated and frustrated

 

[streetillEagle]

How would that fix my problem? When I push the clutch pedal in the clutch doesn't disengage. The cruise switch is moved all the way out for maximum travel of the clutch pedal. If i move the cruise switch in where it actually pushes on the clutch pedal a bit I don't understand how this would cause the slave and fork to move more for more disengagement... I know it worked for you but I don't understand how it fixes the problem. I mean, I guess I could try it and if it works certain kudos to you. It is certainly something to consider...

I have no idea how/why it worked either. The mechanics of it all make no sense but I didn't question it. It was a 5second free fix and it freakin worked.

 

[SlickPyro]

Major Kudos to BrokenTSI because I moved the rod out of the pedal another turn or two and when I started the car up it went into gear. Thanks alot for the help! I am going to test drive the car tomorrow after I get some other stuff wrapped up to make sure everything is good. I hope the flat ground clutch test gives good results too!

 

[BrokenTsi]

Sweet!

 

[SlickPyro]

Yep! I also have to remember to check to make sure the slave pushes in while the pedal is up so that the "thingy" in the master isn't blocked by the rod being adjusted so much. Saw it in the jacks transmission video so I just gotta remember to try it and make sure.

 

[Jazzie6044]

you may also check to see if there is any side to side play in the mounting of the slave. I know they dont come "adjustable", but after working on cars for 15 years, Ive learned that there is a lot of adjustment in non-adjustable parts.

 

[SlickPyro]

you may also check to see if there is any side to side play in the mounting of the slave. I know they dont come "adjustable", but after working on cars for 15 years, Ive learned that there is a lot of adjustment in non-adjustable parts.

Its a brand new slave with brand new bolts....so no side to side play....In all the stuff I have read I have never heard that mentioned. Since I did the 2g awd into a 1g awd trans swap i had to get longer bolts for the slave because the 2g bellhousing has a longer hole.

On another note. Moved the car forwards and back in the garage today didnt like the pedal. Moved the rod out about another turn and then road tested it. Seemed good! I put it on level ground. Foot on the clutch pedal, shifter in 1st, revved it to like 6K and the car didnt move at all. So it is fully disengaging! Now all I have to fix is a leaky radiator and axle seal and it will be ready for the road. And I am going to drive it everyday before they start throwing salt on the roads in Ohio.

Once again thanks for all the help everyone. I hope when someone searches for clutch disengagement they find this thread and look at all the ideas and it solves their problem too!

I'll definitely be at the 2011 DSM/EVO Shootout with my laser instead of my saturn! After two years of having the car and not being able to take it because of some stupid thing every stupid little kink should be worked out by this time next year!

 

[BrokenTsi]

Its a brand new slave with brand new bolts....so no side to side play....In all the stuff I have read I have never heard that mentioned. Since I did the 2g awd into a 1g awd trans swap i had to get longer bolts for the slave because the 2g bellhousing has a longer hole.

On another note. Moved the car forwards and back in the garage today didnt like the pedal. Moved the rod out about another turn and then road tested it. Seemed good! I put it on level ground. Foot on the clutch pedal, shifter in 1st, revved it to like 6K and the car didnt move at all. So it is fully disengaging! Now all I have to fix is a leaky radiator and axle seal and it will be ready for the road. And I am going to drive it everyday before they start throwing salt on the roads in Ohio.

Once again thanks for all the help everyone. I hope when someone searches for clutch disengagement they find this thread and look at all the ideas and it solves their problem too!

I'll definitely be at the 2011 DSM/EVO Shootout with my laser instead of my saturn! After two years of having the car and not being able to take it because of some stupid thing every stupid little kink should be worked out by this time next year!

Why dont you go to the DSM/EVO vs Subaru/Sti shootout in Englishtown, Oct 23rd? Lots of super fast dsm's and evo's will be there.

 

[SlickPyro]

Just wanted to check back in and say that my car is shifting beautifully. It's so nice not to have any grinds. As for the englishtown meet. Im not sure my dsm is ready for such a long drive like that. Good Idea but she needs a little bit more work before driving that far. Around town is one thing AAA will pick me up and take me anywhere for free. If I go outside of the tow range of AAA and she breaks down on me I'd be SOL.

I really hope that this thread helps anyone with a similar problem. I know I searched and read like 50 threads. Thanks again for all the help from everyone.