The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2g: to much clutch throw? hitting clutch Teeth on springs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ApexVIII

15+ Year Contributor
812
5
Jan 12, 2008
Modesto, California
has any one here ever had this issue?
i cant seem to get my clutch to not want to drag.

i did what jacks videos say as far as adjusting the clutch assembly, and the test where you rev it to 7k, while stoped in 1st gear.

i have heard that some times if it is adjusted to far then it can hit the springs? what does this feel like, would the clutch kinda of dis engage then re-engage when you push the petal down?

right now my clutch engages at about 1inch off the floor which is really low

i got a OEM Slave cly that i am replacing the Reman unit with tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the dragging issue,

anyone have any suggestions? i have a ACT2600, the pivot ball is about a year old, and it is shimmed.
 
Last edited:
Doesn't Jack say to never shim the ball?

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Clutch Drag Kills Synchros!

i can not find anythng about that there, i know he says not to use a extended slave rod. but im 99% sure you need to shim the pivot ball

here is how i adjusted the clutch
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vYJxQyjIhUw&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vYJxQyjIhUw&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

here he says when it needs to be

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/omAw-TgCYzM&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/omAw-TgCYzM&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
I had/have a very similar problem. I came from a clutch setup that was nothing but issues so when I replaced my shit I was very keen on making it as problem free as I could. I knew I was going to use a heavier pressure pate (low effort, however) so I replaced the fork and pivot ball and just for "good measure" I put a relatively average washer beneath the pivot ball.

Oh.. what a mistake. But everything looked perfect, the fork was in the perfect spot in the viewing window and the clutch was adjusted and ready to rock. This is when it goes sour. My fired started up the car to back it off the lift and immediately we could hear this ultra rapid metal on metal sound. It was the PP making contact with the springs on the disc, we figure. After adjusting the clutch ALLL the way out it was driveable. We were done for the day so there was no going back. I goofed.

Later I noticed that under hard shifts there was contact again in the transmission, making a horrible sound and vibration. The washer had cursed me! To fix this issue, I have to balance clutch adjustment versus how many washers I'm currently using to shim my slave. Yes, that's right, I shimmed my slave cylinder to provide less throw. It's currently shimmed about an inch. That washer really made an impact.

But, to sum it all up, the car drives great.
 
One common issue is the flywheel step height. You need to make sure it is correct, to get the proper spacing between the clutch disk and pressure plate. i believe it is .608" nominal, at least on the 1G's.

BTW - When aftermarket clutches and flywheels are advertised as shipping with perfect balance and step height... don't take their word for it. :)
 
I had/have a very similar problem. I came from a clutch setup that was nothing but issues so when I replaced my shit I was very keen on making it as problem free as I could. I knew I was going to use a heavier pressure pate (low effort, however) so I replaced the fork and pivot ball and just for "good measure" I put a relatively average washer beneath the pivot ball.

Oh.. what a mistake. But everything looked perfect, the fork was in the perfect spot in the viewing window and the clutch was adjusted and ready to rock. This is when it goes sour. My fired started up the car to back it off the lift and immediately we could hear this ultra rapid metal on metal sound. It was the PP making contact with the springs on the disc, we figure. After adjusting the clutch ALLL the way out it was driveable. We were done for the day so there was no going back. I goofed.

Later I noticed that under hard shifts there was contact again in the transmission, making a horrible sound and vibration. The washer had cursed me! To fix this issue, I have to balance clutch adjustment versus how many washers I'm currently using to shim my slave. Yes, that's right, I shimmed my slave cylinder to provide less throw. It's currently shimmed about an inch. That washer really made an impact.

But, to sum it all up, the car drives great.

So if you had to do it all over again you would NOT shim the pivot ball?

I only ask because I have my tranny out of the car now and I'm debating whether to shim or not.

Tom

PS: Anything new on the P0300 problem? (PM me)

One common issue is the flywheel step height. You need to make sure it is correct, to get the proper spacing between the clutch disk and pressure plate. i believe it is .608" nominal, at least on the 1G's.

BTW - When aftermarket clutches and flywheels are advertised as shipping with perfect balance and step height... don't take their word for it. :)

How do you check the step height at home? Is there a way or do you have to take it to a shop?

Tom
 
You can do it if you have a good dial caliper or dial indicator. The hardest part is making sure that you are measuring across the flats, perpendicular to the face. I believe the acceptable range is between .608" and .612"... but don't hold me to that.

There are some threads on here about the flywheel step height that go into more detail, but I don't have the links handy at the moment.

EDIT:

Found it. Here ya go...

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
 
You can do it if you have a good dial caliper or dial indicator. The hardest part is making sure that you are measuring across the flats, perpendicular to the face. I believe the acceptable range is between .607" and .612"... but don't hold me to that.

There are some threads on here about the flywheel step height that go into more detail, but I don't have the links handy at the moment.

EDIT:

Found it. Here ya go...

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Pretty sure it was .608-12, seems like height is within 4 thousandths for spec.

Edit, not in one of my manuals, looking for it in the others
 
So if you had to do it all over again you would NOT shim the pivot ball?

I only ask because I have my tranny out of the car now and I'm debating whether to shim or not.

Tom

Absolutely not. If you're using all new gear and everything is in spec there should be no reason to use a shim.
If you're still contemplating use of shim plan for time to test it in case you need to add/remove.
 
hmm well i dont hear any noise when i pus the clutch down like the teeth hitting the springs so that must not be my problem
 
Do you feel vibration through the pedal?

no i did not.

but i the petal feels perfect now!!

i replaced the POS re-man slave with a new OEM Slave Cylinder and replaced removed the accumulator with a SS line(before i just had the SS clutch line that replaced the rubber line.), and feels great!!
 
Glad the new slave fixed you up. What was leading you in the direction of abnormal contact?

umm i just could not think of anything that it could be, Jack suggested that that can happen so i figured i would ask to see if other people had that issue, but after hearing your guys stories about it that for sure was not my issue.

but its all good now so im happy! LOL
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 91 tsi awd heavily modified
    91 talon tsi. it was modified on the to look like a 1gb (fixed healights). stock rods and...
    • george bromwell
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g 1GA 91 GSX 5 speed take-out engine harness
    Around 2005(?) my local area was filled with guys buying up DSM’s and breaking/parting out...
    • pma1123
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g Eclipse/Talon Parts lot
    95-99 2G Eclipse/Talon Misc. Parts lot
    • Sdcryan1
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top