2G Spyder Audio Set Up?

[AllTimeKilla]

hello, while I'm stripping my car right now, I thought it would be a good idea to wire the amp and subs before I put my whole new interior swap in. I do not have too much knowledge with wiring, what kind of subs or amps I would have to buy. I have looked into the "three major upgrades" but still would like more info. I already have a double din alpine head unit. I'm looking to have two 12" subs in the trunk and a amp (amplifier). I'm not aware of what voltages etc I'd have to be looking for to someone help me out thanks

 

[marineeagle28]

Well, a few questions come to mind. 1) What kind of music do you primarily listen to, and at what volume?
2) are you just looking for a lil bump in the trunk, or are you going for an audiophiles wet dream? 3) Budget? 4) who is doing the install/ enclosure design and fabrication? 5) Have you upgraded door speakers, front tweets, or rear speakers? 6) Did you plan on amplifying the whole system, or just the subwoofers? 7) Did you account for fabricating speaker rings, acoustic deadeners (i.e. peel&seal, dynamat, second skin, etc)? 8) Have you acquired other installation accessories (battery terminals, power/ ground wire, signal cables, speaker wire, fuses, fuse blocks, distribution blocks if needed)?


All of this comes to mind when i am working with car audio. I can recommend Caraudio.com/forums and have a look around there. when engine is off, key on you want your amplifiers seeing ~12.4-13.2 voltage, each car is a little different. Engine on, key on between 14-16 volts is normal to see, depends on a few things.

In my opinion, do NOT use a capacitor. Sound familiar, Flux Capacitor. So whats known as "the Big 3" Large gauge wire, 3 pieces. 1-Alt+ to Batt+ 2) batt- to ground(shortest possible) 3)Engine ground to Ground.. I am not saying replace the factory wiring here, merely add some extra room for current to flow. this fixes MOST light dimming problems with larger systems (large to most people).
Back to what to do if you still have dimming and what to use instead of the flimsy band-aid capacitor. Upgrade the amperage of the alternator (more juice on tap) or add a second battery. One for accessories(like the radio and system, gauges even ), and one for starting/ running the car.


If I have been helpful at all, please feel free to PM me

 

[noavgjoe]

This site has always helped me out with car audio questions: Car Audio Help 101. Check out the wiring, electrical and Installation forum.

 

[Zufelt]

Well, a few questions come to mind. 1) What kind of music do you primarily listen to, and at what volume?
2) are you just looking for a lil bump in the trunk, or are you going for an audiophiles wet dream? 3) Budget? 4) who is doing the install/ enclosure design and fabrication? 5) Have you upgraded door speakers, front tweets, or rear speakers? 6) Did you plan on amplifying the whole system, or just the subwoofers? 7) Did you account for fabricating speaker rings, acoustic deadeners (i.e. peel&seal, dynamat, second skin, etc)? 8) Have you acquired other installation accessories (battery terminals, power/ ground wire, signal cables, speaker wire, fuses, fuse blocks, distribution blocks if needed)?


All of this comes to mind when i am working with car audio. I can recommend Caraudio.com/forums and have a look around there. when engine is off, key on you want your amplifiers seeing ~12.4-13.2 voltage, each car is a little different. Engine on, key on between 14-16 volts is normal to see, depends on a few things.

In my opinion, do NOT use a capacitor. Sound familiar, Flux Capacitor. So whats known as "the Big 3" Large gauge wire, 3 pieces. 1-Alt+ to Batt+ 2) batt- to ground(shortest possible) 3)Engine ground to Ground.. I am not saying replace the factory wiring here, merely add some extra room for current to flow. this fixes MOST light dimming problems with larger systems (large to most people).
Back to what to do if you still have dimming and what to use instead of the flimsy band-aid capacitor. Upgrade the amperage of the alternator (more juice on tap) or add a second battery. One for accessories(like the radio and system, gauges even ), and one for starting/ running the car.


If I have been helpful at all, please feel free to PM me

Hit the nail on the head, answer these questions and we'll be able to help you. You might not even need another battery for what you want, most stock electrical can hold up to 750rms. Our alts are only a 90Amp so it would really depend on your budget/wants. Once you answer his questions we can tell you what equipment would be the best bang for your buck, and what you would need all within your budget.

ALSO would you be building the box?

 

[AllTimeKilla]

thanks to all that replied, once again I have not purchased front and rear speakers but I will be doing a full car speaker swap. I am looking to spend max 1500 considering I already have the head unit, and also yea I do listen to music pretty loud and with lots of bass. the louder and clearer the better!

 

[Zufelt]

thanks to all that replied, once again I have not purchased front and rear speakers but I will be doing a full car speaker swap. I am looking to spend max 1500 considering I already have the head unit, and also yea I do listen to music pretty loud and with lots of bass. the louder and clearer the better!

You could pick up some 0 gauge, XS 750, Skar 1500.1, and a DC level 4 m2 for the sub setup. Would cost you around 900 bucks of your going to build the box yourself. That would leave you with about 600 cash for speakers. You'll ### to do the big three, and purchase an amp that's at least 50rms x4 which should be pretty easy to do. I personally haven't ran any high end speakers, but hertz would be a good brand to look into. Just remember when doing the substage it's just like a car.. Fuel mods before bigger turbo. But in this case electrical before power. You'll also want to pick up a volt meter for inside the car so you don't burn up any coils. DC, Skar, Sundown are all great brands to look into. Sorry I'm nt explaining in depth with links, I'm on mobile at the moment.

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