Haltech 2g R3 fusebox

[Bedicine]

Hello

Just wondering if anyone has run an R3 on a 2g or even a 1g? I’m looking to relocate my fuse box to the glovebox box but from what I’ve seen is the nexus r3 can be used without a fuse box as it provides power, curious if anyone has done this since it would be a lot cleaner to just have this then say the s2 and a fuse box.

Thank you

 

[babyviper]

Do you plan on keeping ABS and A/C?

 

[Bedicine]

Do you plan on keeping ABS and A/C?

Abs I deleted previously. A/c I’m on the fence about.

Was going to add in electric power steering potentially but that’s not a must at this point

 

[jdxnc]

If you run a standalone ECU there's a good chance you're deleting factory electrical and replacing it anyway. I gutted every single oem wire off the car and ran my own when I went over to Fueltech, ran a simple fuse block and relays I wanted.

 

[Bedicine]

If you run a standalone ECU there's a good chance you're deleting factory electrical and replacing it anyway. I gutted every single oem wire off the car and ran my own when I went over to Fueltech, ran a simple fuse block and relays I wanted.

What one are you running from fuel tech. Haven’t looked into them much but have only heard good things.

I want to pair whatever I do with digital dash, my fuse box is a mess so eliminating it would be nice

 

[jdxnc]

What one are you running from fuel tech. Haven’t looked into them much but have only heard good things.

I want to pair whatever I do with digital dash, my fuse box is a mess so eliminating it would be nice

I went with the 550, don't even bother with the 450, it's too limited for anything mildly serious.

2G - 2G DSM Fueltech FT550 Conversion

A few people have asked me questions about my project of converting my 2G over to a Fueltech FT550 so I figured I'd document it here seeing as I never did a build journal.For starters I've been running the car on ECMLink since about 2009, it's been great, super user friendly but I've decided...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[babyviper]

In my green 2G I went with the these guy for a relocation of the fuse box and opted for a smaller and more compact fuse box since I deleted the ABS A/C and a bunch of others. I went with the Haltech 2500 in the green car, so no built-in PDM. I still need to update my profile.

https://www.ohm-racing.com/

They mentioned, if your are keeping ABS A/C and fans on it, it gets a bit cluttered for a relocation. I just kept the fan relays in the engine bay which you can do too.
Another option you can do is run some efficient 25A fans and control them with the R3 and use the other two HCO's for coils and starter. Keeping the fuel pump on it own relay by the pump and moving the relay for the starter to the relocated fuse box in your glovebox.

I'll attach my pinout so far.

 

[babyviper]

If you run a standalone ECU there's a good chance you're deleting factory electrical and replacing it anyway. I gutted every single oem wire off the car and ran my own when I went over to Fueltech, ran a simple fuse block and relays I wanted.

This is a valid point, but to do it right and remove all unnecessary wires from under the dash you need to remove the dash from the car. If I remove my dash my car wont see the road in 2025.

 

[Bedicine]

In my green 2G I went with the these guy for a relocation of the fuse box and opted for a smaller and more compact fuse box since I deleted the ABS A/C and a bunch of others. I went with the Haltech 2500 in the green car, so no built-in PDM. I still need to update my profile.

https://www.ohm-racing.com/

They mentioned, if your are keeping ABS A/C and fans on it, it gets a bit cluttered for a relocation. I just kept the fan relays in the engine bay which you can do too.
Another option you can do is run some efficient 25A fans and control them with the R3 and use the other two HCO's for coils and starter. Keeping the fuel pump on it own relay by the pump and moving the relay for the starter to the relocated fuse box in your glovebox.

I'll attach my pinout so far.

Appreciate the pin outs. Can’t open on my phone but will take a look after.

Curious how the alternator would be with the r3 and a pdm.

The ohm harness you got did you get the relocation kit plus the underwood shaved one? There isn’t many companies making them for the car but I saw boomslang makes a kit for our cars with the s2 or r3 in mind

 

[babyviper]

Oh for the engine harness, on the red car where I went with the R3, I just pulled the entire harness out the car and re-pinned connectors for sensors I changed and re-ran power and ground. Factory harness grounds the harness in three separate locations and shares power with a bunch of different electronics that are unrelated to the ECU. So I separated those and terminated the factory harness. I obviously had to cut the loom off and rewrap the entire harness. I did this primarily to get rid of waste spark, I am running GTR coils and wanted the to be sequential. Secondly to re-run the crank and cam trigger wires since they weren't EMI shielded from factory. I am not a fan of PNP harness on a DSM because of those reasons. But if you want to get up and running quick, its the fastest way. You can always redo the harness later.

As for the alternator, the ECU only is pinned for the G terminal, the alternator fuse is 100A and can't be sent to the PDM and the relay for the battery light on your dash can be sent there. You could just use an HBO or a DBO on the ECU since its low amperage. I have a 99 which doesn't have a alternator relay, s the L terminal goes directly to the dash.

 

[Bedicine]

still haven’t pulled the trigger but haltech is giving away a free universal harness with the r3 this weekend.

Did you have to buy the plug and play harness block as well when you bought the haltech?

 

[babyviper]

No, I purchased the R3 with pins and connectors. Cut the connectors off the factory harness and used the haltech ones. There's pro's and cons to this. If you use the factory harness there's less work to do the install because it saves you pinning a lot connectors, measuring harness length and you are able to still use factory service manual as a reference for wire colors. The downside is dealing with a factory harness that has wires that are not in good condition and manually going through every wire trying figure out which ones you can delete.
The pros of the haltech harness is: You get a brand new harness pre-terminated on the ECU side, all the wires colors match up with the provided haltech diagram, all wire colors in the NSP match the colors of your wire harness (shown below), at this time you cannot change these colors in NSP. The downside of a haltech harness is really the amount of work that goes into it. You need to pin every connector on the engine from scratch, you need to measure the harness to figure out how it will lay in the engine bay. Honestly, after adding a few extra connections over the past few weeks and setting them up in NSP, it does make it a lot easier to have colors that match. Because every non-factory sensor you add, you will need to use your spreadsheet as a reference, rather than just logging into NSP. If you are convinced this is the ECu you want, it seems like a good deal, or you could wait until the shootout, they always give really good deals there too. Last year it was 20% off

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[Bedicine]

No, I purchased the R3 with pins and connectors. Cut the connectors off the factory harness and used the haltech ones. There's pro's and cons to this. If you use the factory harness there's less work to do the install because it saves you pinning a lot connectors, measuring harness length and you are able to still use factory service manual as a reference for wire colors. The downside is dealing with a factory harness that has wires that are not in good condition and manually going through every wire trying figure out which ones you can delete.
The pros of the haltech harness is: You get a brand new harness pre-terminated on the ECU side, all the wires colors match up with the provided haltech diagram, all wire colors in the NSP match the colors of your wire harness (shown below), at this time you cannot change these colors in NSP. The downside of a haltech harness is really the amount of work that goes into it. You need to pin every connector on the engine from scratch, you need to measure the harness to figure out how it will lay in the engine bay. Honestly, after adding a few extra connections over the past few weeks and setting them up in NSP, it does make it a lot easier to have colors that match. Because every non-factory sensor you add, you will need to use your spreadsheet as a reference, rather than just logging into NSP. If you are convinced this is the ECu you want, it seems like a good deal, or you could wait until the shootout, they always give really good deals there too. Last year it was 20% off

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Good to know. Thank you for the above. Is the sale at the shootout or on haltech website during that time.?

 

[babyviper]

Only at the shootout.

 

[Bedicine]

I’m in Toronto so I won’t be there this year . Here’s hoping I can get some sponsorships on my social media builds

 

[babyviper]

Well, I just got an update for my R3 and they now have an option to change wire colors in the ECU to match your harness!
I'm on Release 1.33.1