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2g engine with 1g head, CAS ?

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ryanx99GS

20+ Year Contributor
247
1
Sep 26, 2005
St Louis, Missouri
Okay so I recently purchased this motor off a guy in Jefferson City, MO: eBay Motors: Eclipse Laser Talon DSM 6 / 7 bolt Engine Motor 4G63 (item 120231818933 end time Mar-16-08 18:48:17 PDT). My question is, will the 1G in a 2G adaptor harness from magnusmotorsports (Magnus Motorsports - Electrical Products) be the only thing I need for it to drop in and work correctly. Thanks - Ryan

** The engine block is a 7bolt with a 1g head/Cyclone intake mani **

I will also be installing Prothane motor mounts
 
You have to remove your oil pump, if you know what you are doing it shouldn't take very long. I would definitely do it now that the engine is out of the car.
 
I am not sure that you did this right. I always thought that when you were doing a 1g head in a 2g that you have to tap the cam for a 2G cam sensor. Since you are using your 7bolt block you will be using the crank sensor. That plug is for a full 6 bolt swap, meaning that you are using no crank sensor and no cam sensor. That wire takes them two connections and makes them into one, being that you plug the other end into a CAS. So here is what you have to do search around for info on tapping for the cam sensor. That harness will not work for you unless you buy a six bolt block. IF you dont mind for me to ask you this, why are you putting this motor in? WHat is wrong with your motor now? THe only thing different with this motor is the 1g head.
 
I am not sure that you did this right. I always thought that when you were doing a 1g head in a 2g that you have to tap the cam for a 2G cam sensor. Since you are using your 7bolt block you will be using the crank sensor. That plug is for a full 6 bolt swap, meaning that you are using no crank sensor and no cam sensor. That wire takes them two connections and makes them into one, being that you plug the other end into a CAS. So here is what you have to do search around for info on tapping for the cam sensor. That harness will not work for you unless you buy a six bolt block. IF you dont mind for me to ask you this, why are you putting this motor in? WHat is wrong with your motor now? THe only thing different with this motor is the 1g head.

Why would you say it doesn't work? There are those who have run a completely stock 7 bolt with a 1G CAS. It's true that the 7 bolt uses a crank and a cam angle sensor, but if you wire (or use the RRE adaptor), you will not need to use the 7 bolt crank/cam angle sensors.

7 bolt block + 6 bolt head? I would use the RRE (or just wire your own, it only took me half an hour) harness with a 1G CAS.

Also to note, I've never personally done it, but there are reputable members who swear up and down that the 2g water system works with a 1G head, so you may want to investigate in that too.
 
I got caught it high rising water and it ruined my shortblock mitch. I could not turn around or park, either way it was going to get f'd. I was amazinly surprised that the water didn't pick me up. About a week later, it started to knock, I took off the main caps/rods and water/oil mixture just started pouring out and with such a horrible smell :(
 
Why would you say it doesn't work? There are those who have run a completely stock 7 bolt with a 1G CAS. It's true that the 7 bolt uses a crank and a cam angle sensor, but if you wire (or use the RRE adaptor), you will not need to use the 7 bolt crank/cam angle sensors.

7 bolt block + 6 bolt head? I would use the RRE (or just wire your own, it only took me half an hour) harness with a 1G CAS.

Also to note, I've never personally done it, but there are reputable members who swear up and down that the 2g water system works with a 1G head, so you may want to investigate in that too.

I understand the first part your saying, but what do you mean about the 2g water system in a 1g head? did i say something about the water system?
 
I got caught it high rising water and it ruined my shortblock mitch. I could not turn around or park, either way it was going to get f'd. I was amazinly surprised that the water didn't pick me up. About a week later, it started to knock, I took off the main caps/rods and water/oil mixture just started pouring out and with such a horrible smell :(

DAMN! that sucks! I am still looking into this adapter he is talking about if his way is better then by all means go for it! I didn't know you could do what he is saying.
 
Do I also have to buy an OEM 1g water system for it to work also? I read the RRE writeup and im guessing that the guy im getting the engine from had to have done the welding, etc or had someone do it or else there would not be a 1g cas on it already. So all I should need is that adaptor..and the water system?
 
Do I also have to buy an OEM 1g water system for it to work also? I read the RRE writeup and im guessing that the guy im getting the engine from had to have done the welding, etc or had someone do it or else there would not be a 1g cas on it already. So all I should need is that adaptor..and the water system?

Yes all you are going to need is the harness,1g CAS, 1g thermostat housing, and 1g water pipe. I recently did a 6 bolt swap and instead of buying the harness I just used the diagram and made my own harness. It isn't hard, but it's up to you.
 
Also, when you have the CAS wired (either RRE harness or hard-wired) don't bolt on the CAS to the head. Turn the key to ON and turn the CAS with your hand, you should hear the injectors opening and the plugs firing. This is a way to check if the CAS is good.
 
And you also need to make sure you follow the rre intructions on adjusting timimg..
unless you already know how to do it.

Set the base timing:
1. Connect a timing light to battery power (+ and -) and the Number 1 spark plug.

2. Connect a data logger to the car and display timing advance and RPM

3. Allow the car to come up to temp. Coolant 212 deg F, 750 RPM +/- 100, Fan's should cycle on and off

4. Read the timing from the crank with no load on the motor. Each mark is 5 deg no fans, no lights, no A/C etc.

5. Adjust the position of the CAS until the readings from the TIMING LIGHT, match the timing advance displayed on the data logger. This is "stock" advance. If you have a mild setup with stock cam's you'll pass the smog inspection if your ECU timing and crank timing reads 5 deg +/-3 deg BTDC at idle

6. Add additional timing at own risk, (Timing light advance) - (ECU advance) = (Base Timing Shift) see: "The bad"

7. Tighten the 12mm nuts/bolts that hold the 1G CAS
 
Im also doing a 6bolt swap into my 98 GST right now. I bought the magnus harness which makes it easy but I still had to wire into the stock harness just one wire. You cannot use the 2g t-stat housing on the 1g head because the housings are different and do not bolt up. You will want to purchase a 1g lower coolant hose to clear the shifting levers on the transmission. So far the swap is pretty easy except for finding a suitable place for the MDP sensor. Hopefully I will be finished tomorrow!
 
Okay, the guy said the 1g theromstat housing is already there (obviously) it was up and running with a 16g before he pulled it. Said he is also including the water pipe. So all I need is the harness and to adjust the timing.
 
Why would you say it doesn't work? There are those who have run a completely stock 7 bolt with a 1G CAS. It's true that the 7 bolt uses a crank and a cam angle sensor, but if you wire (or use the RRE adaptor), you will not need to use the 7 bolt crank/cam angle sensors.

7 bolt block + 6 bolt head? I would use the RRE (or just wire your own, it only took me half an hour) harness with a 1G CAS.

RRE's and magnusmotorsports' sites mention to reconfigure the injector pin locations too...

do i have to do this injector reconfiguration, along with the coil trigger wires interchanging to make the 1G CAS in a 2G head work?

or it is really as 'simple' as installing the 1G CAS and RRE harness on the 2G head/intake cam, and setting the timing correctly as per RRE?

TIA
 
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