2G Blown Turbo - budget 16G Photos (and probably lots of questions) inside

[pu12en12g]

Me: Helping with the install
Car: 97GST Spyder - Stock
Meineke: Says blown turbo (and throwing 4 codes)
Smoke: White / when accelerating
Sound: Rattling / Like the turbo is in pieces
Boost: Yes, but it all started with a "loss of power"
Budget: Under $1000

Parts on the way:
TD05 Big 16G + Install Kit + Intercooler:

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[demografik]

I think I have one bookmarked, but do you have a link to the best writeup you've seen for this ?

just pressurize the actuator and adjust the arm until the flapper is completely open.

 

[Black99gst]

i wish i had the time and dedication to do my FMIC as clean as yous! good job! on the driver side, try to loop around behind the radiator, with a 180* bend... will work MUCH better! also, i'm loving how clean your write up is but, if you mount your core about 1/2" lower you will be able to KEEP your OEM fogs... (Like mine)

 

[pu12en12g]

just pressurize the actuator and adjust the arm until the flapper is completely open.

Awesome, thanks

Any thoughts on:

The only new gasket I used was the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket

 

[pu12en12g]

i wish i had the time and dedication to do my FMIC as clean as yous! good job! on the driver side, try to loop around behind the radiator, with a 180* bend... will work MUCH better! also, i'm loving how clean your write up is but, if you mount your core about 1/2" lower you will be able to KEEP your OEM fogs... (Like mine)

Sounds good, will try that for sure and good to know that it could be lower... if that doesn't work the owner is going to try and retrofit the fogs "IN" the little black holders (should make it easier to replace bulbs as well... bulb replacement was the first thing that pissed her off).

Right now, it sounds like I'm going to have to get it running without welding with the exception of the BOV and then take another day later on for welding.

Thinking of going with TurboXS Type H-RFL BOV.... but ANY / ALL input appreciated (with price in mind above all else).

 

[dsmmike50t]

Thinking of going with TurboXS Type H-RFL BOV.... but ANY / ALL input appreciated (with price in mind above all else).

You have a maf-t for the BOV. Stalling at every light is not fun.

 

[pu12en12g]

Day 15:

Fixed some rust spots, relocated the power steering cooling lines (?) and lowered the FMIC one step. Trimmed about 1" off one of the U pipes and routed the left side a totally different way (much improved). The coolant pipes don't want to come off the old turbo... so that's the main hold up right now.

Not sure if it's a bad sign, but we haven't had to mess with the O2 sensor yet ??.... have the new SS line in and everything (this took most of the day)...

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[PieEyedPiper]

You said the stock turbo is out yet you cannot remove the coolant lines from it. If thats the case just undo the clamp holding the 2 halves of the turbo together to gain clearance and see if you can get a bench vice to bite on the banjo bolt. Then just turn the turbo itself by hand to remove the banjo bolt.

Alternatively, still using the bench vice, you could squash (carefully) the unit itself in the vice and then just go to town with a regular socket or wrench on that banjo bolt.

Did you remove the o2 housing from the turbo before you removed the unit? If so, the o2 sensor is still chillin' in the o2 housing, wherever you have that right now. Still attached to the downpipe maybe?
If its sitting on your bench then you have already disconnected the o2 sensor from its plug-in spot.

 

[toojung2die]

Any thoughts on:

Originally Posted by cucumber
The only new gasket I used was the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket

Something to keep in mind when mounting the turbo to the exhaust manifold. The turbo to manifold bolts can have a tendency to loosen up if you use ordinary lock washers. There should be two cup washers under the head of each of the four bolts (Mitsu calls them Coned Disc Springs). Put the cup washers on the bolts so the concave surfaces of the washers face one another. Mitsu recommends using new cup washers every time the bolts are removed; they're not expensive. Use high-temp anti-seize compound on the bolt threads so they don't lock up later. Tighten the bolts to 20-23 ft/lbs and then using a degree wheel or other suitable method tighten the bolts another 60-70 degrees. Do this and your turbo to manifold will stay tight.
I use copper exhaust manifold gasket spray on the manifold to turbo gasket. If you have a sheet metal gasket and there's no burning, pitting or distortion from exhaust gas pushing out on it you can reuse it. I have.

 

[pu12en12g]

Did you remove the o2 housing from the turbo before you removed the unit? If so, the o2 sensor is still chillin' in the o2 housing, wherever you have that right now. Still attached to the downpipe maybe?

That sounds right, am I going to need to mess with it ?

 

[pu12en12g]

Something to keep in mind when mounting the turbo to the exhaust manifold. The turbo to manifold bolts can have a tendency to loosen up if you use ordinary lock washers. There should be two cup washers under the head of each of the four bolts (Mitsu calls them Coned Disc Springs). Put the cup washers on the bolts so the concave surfaces of the washers face one another. Mitsu recommends using new cup washers every time the bolts are removed; they're not expensive. Use high-temp anti-seize compound on the bolt threads so they don't lock up later. Tighten the bolts to 20-23 ft/lbs and then using a degree wheel or other suitable method tighten the bolts another 60-70 degrees. Do this and your turbo to manifold will stay tight.
I use copper exhaust manifold gasket spray on the manifold to turbo gasket. If you have a sheet metal gasket and there's no burning, pitting or distortion from exhaust gas pushing out on it you can reuse it. I have.

Awesome detail, much appreciated is anything like high temp RTV used on the sheet metal gaskets ?

 

[demografik]

you don't need to do anything to the o2 sensor itself besides unplug the pigtail and plug it back in. you will need to seperate the o2 housing from the original turbo and bolt it to the new one.

you can re-use all the copper gaskets as long as they're not broken. no need for any kind of rtv.

i would suggest using a 1g or greddy type-s blow off valve. they can both use the stock recirculation tube without any modification and have similar, common flanges.

 

[pu12en12g]

you don't need to do anything to the o2 sensor itself besides unplug the pigtail and plug it back in. you will need to seperate the o2 housing from the original turbo and bolt it to the new one.

you can re-use all the copper gaskets as long as they're not broken. no need for any kind of rtv.

i would suggest using a 1g or greddy type-s blow off valve. they can both use the stock recirculation tube without any modification and have similar, common flanges.

Sounds good / thanks for saving me some time... I will still need to get it welded on right ?

The O2 I tried to unplug but didn't want to break it (not sure how it comes off) and haven't needed to yet it seems. Why does it need to be unplugged, does it need to be routed differently / around something ?

 

[toojung2die]

Sounds good / thanks for saving me some time... I will still need to get it welded on right ?

You don't weld the BOV, it bolts to the flange. You may have to weld the correct flange to the intercooler pipe. The 1G BOV and Greddy type-S can both use a 1G flange. New holes for the Greddy will have to be drilled in the 1G flange but it eliminates the need for a whole new flange.

The O2 I tried to unplug but didn't want to break it (not sure how it comes off) and haven't needed to yet it seems. Why does it need to be unplugged, does it need to be routed differently / around something ?

There's a latch on the plastic plug for the o2 sensor cable, shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Are you talking about removing the o2 sensor from the o2 housing? That can be a challenge. I prefer the crows-foot type of wrench over the deep socket. Usually the o2 housing and turbo are removed as a single unit because it is easier to disconnect the o2 housing from the downpipe than the turbo. The o2 housing to turbo bolts are hard to get to when the turbo is in the car. It's easier to attach the o2 housing to a new turbo while both are out of the car. Connect the downpipe later. With the o2 housing off the turbo you can inspect the tip of the sensor. If it's looking bad you'll want to replace it. If there's more than 60K miles on it I would replace it. The o2 sensor cable doesn't have to be rerouted but you can route it any way you like, keep it original but just keep it away from the fan blades and the exhaust pipes.
BTW, the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket I use is stainless steel sheet metal from Slowboy. These gaskets are reusable. I don't know about exhaust RTV, I use Permatex copper aerosol exhaust sealant on it. May not even need it. Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Exhaust :: Exhaust Components :: Exhaust Gaskets :: 7cm :: 7cm Stainless Steel Gasket

 

[pu12en12g]

Day 27 (?):

Definitely regretting the whole project... so is this [bolt] supposed to come off the stock turbo and be (somehow) good enough to be re-used ?

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[toojung2die]

Definitely regretting the whole project... so is this [bolt] supposed to come off the stock turbo and be (somehow) good enough to be re-used ?​

Remove the stud and toss it. Use a bolt through the o2 housing in it's place. If it doesn't want to come out and it's looking like the stud will shear try using a torch on the housing around the stud. Get it really hot and put vise grips on the stud. You want the heat concentrated on the housing, not the stud.​

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Day 27 (?):

Definitely regretting the whole project... so is this [bolt] supposed to come off the stock turbo and be (somehow) good enough to be re-used ?

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toojung2die, has the right idea. Definitely replace that stud with an appropriate bolt.

I'm sorry you're having second thoughts etc, definitely a bummer cause this process is actually really really fun. In no way am I harshing on you, but with improved planning, improved product selection and asking the important questions before spending the money would probably make it easier on a guy.
So, you took the unbeaten path. Whatever though, keep your head up and your nose down (oh those silly cliche's..). I wanna see this project up and running! Prove it to us (and you) how awesome this is when gets finished.

 

[t-rad]

I would have to agree, I have been following this project since the beginning and I cant wait to see the end result. Good luck

 

[EvansF]

BYW, you dont need to relocate the power steering cooling line, just remove it and by pass ## ose.

Second thing, i dont know why you removed the manifold, its a waste of time.
in my case, i removed fans, and pulled it by the upper front.

GL in your project

Are you sure with a long route and 3 inch pipes that you will have NO lag?? umm i would not bet

Evans

 

[toojung2die]

relocated the power steering cooling lines (?)

You probably found the PS cooler loop too close to the FMIC. Some people bend the tubes and relocate the PS cooler line behind the radiator support and closer to the radiator. Others eliminate the PS cooler all together and loop the output line back in using a short length of PS hose. In a cooler climate you may safely get away with eliminating the PS cooler. I wanted to keep as much of the PS cooler loop as possible so I cut out the hard tubing that was difficult to reroute and replaced it with PS hose:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...cially-if-you-have-one-brackets-ps-cooler.jpg

 

[GalantGreg]

What happened to this project???? Did this guy just throw in the towel??

 

[rEclipserGST]

What happened to this project???? Did this guy just throw in the towel??

Yea I would like to know as well. I plan on doing a 16g swap myself. This definitely helps prepare me for the problems I may or may not run into