2G Blown Turbo - budget 16G Photos (and probably lots of questions) inside

[pu12en12g]

Me: Helping with the install
Car: 97GST Spyder - Stock
Meineke: Says blown turbo (and throwing 4 codes)
Smoke: White / when accelerating
Sound: Rattling / Like the turbo is in pieces
Boost: Yes, but it all started with a "loss of power"
Budget: Under $1000

Parts on the way:
TD05 Big 16G + Install Kit + Intercooler:

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[pu12en12g]

Day 1:

1. Basic cleaning in engine bay
2. Removed intake
3. Removed fans

1/2" on front (?)
10mm on back
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4. Labeled bolts in ziplock baggies

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[Stapl3]

This is weird thread...

What are you pulling the radiator for? I've done tons of turbo swaps and never touched the radiator, have even left the fans in a couple times.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Pu, Looks like you're taking you're time to do it well and its definitely a good call to bag things and label, like you mentioned.

Is that an ebay turbo/j pipe/fmic? Decent price point for what you get, more and more people have been having success with with off-brand turbos it seems. But surely this all cost less than a grand.

Also, what are you going to do for fuel mods, so that you don't blow it up if/when that unit creeps to 20+psi?
Go ahead and fill out your vehicle profile so we can better understand your build.

And with fancy pictures like that, I'll be subscribing.
BTW, frequent bb.com much?

EDIT: Will you be cutting and welding those IC pipes yourself? Which BOV flange will you choose?

 

[pu12en12g]

This is weird thread...

What are you pulling the radiator for? I've done tons of turbo swaps and never touched the radiator, have even left the fans in a couple times.

No ####ing clue !!

I'm using 3 different write-ups and all are different and don't have any helpful photos. This little interactive site was VERY helpful though:
Virtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - Quadrant map

 

[Stapl3]

Just pull the intake off, manifold, downpipe, then the lines. Done. It's really simple once you get in there and start doing it.

 

[pu12en12g]

Just pull the intake off, manifold, downpipe, then the lines. Done. It's really simple once you get in there and start doing it.

Sweet I'm sure it's simple to you.... but everything I've heard and read indicates the opposite. I'm helping out with the swap to save money for tuning and other possible issues (it's throwing other codes... have to do this first).

Thanks

 

[pu12en12g]

EDIT: Will you be cutting and welding those IC pipes yourself? Which BOV flange will you choose?

Could they be welded at a later date, because I do have the hookup on that... but car would need to be driven over there...

 

[onebadtsi]

If you want to avoid boost creep and headache down the road if you decide to put a TBE on, you should do minor porting on the hole behind the waste gate flapper. Also the hardware that comes with those turbos is not correct I had to use old hardware. Looks like your off to a good start.

 

[demografik]

ebay turbo - good luck. make sure you install a boost gauge; you definitely don't want to boost more than ~10psi on the stock fuel system and this turbo's prone to creep. you're going to have to adjust the arm on the wastegate actuator to make it function properly, as well.

 

[pu12en12g]

ebay turbo - good luck. make sure you install a boost gauge; you definitely don't want to boost more than ~10psi on the stock fuel system and this turbo's prone to creep. you're going to have to adjust the arm on the wastegate actuator to make it function properly, as well.

Which BOV flange will you choose?

I'll be getting everything else I need from Modern Automotive Performance so feel free to make recommendations within the budget. So far she is at $604.

 

[pu12en12g]

If you want to avoid boost creep and headache down the road if you decide to put a TBE on, you should do minor porting on the hole behind the waste gate flapper. Also the hardware that comes with those turbos is not correct I had to use old hardware. Looks like your off to a good start.

What old hardware did you have to use ?

I have the porting write-up bookmarked

 

[s3v3n]

Could they be welded at a later date, because I do have the hookup on that... but car would need to be driven over there...

I think he just meant that since you simply bought a generic ic piping kit, youll have to fab up all the piping yourself. While I guess you could simply use a wack of couplers to keep it all together, youre probably better off trying to get some of it welded up. If you know somebody that can weld al (usually tig), you might be able to cut and mark the piping yourself before bringing it to him to be welded up into sections. At the very least, youll probably have to have the bov flange welded on anyway.

 

[pu12en12g]

Day 2:

1. Removed upper heat shield (easy) 12mm (?)

2. Cut slice in / Removed lower heat shield (harder than expected) 12mm (?)

3. Removed triangular flap POS on manifold (anyone know what that is ?)

4. Nothing broken yet = drink break

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5. Lots of liquid Wrench

6. Removed Manifold 14mm (?)

7. Lots of liquid Wrench

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[kmoore]

That triangle piece is used if you need to pull the motor out. It's used with the cherry picker and a chain.

Remember to unplug that O2 sensor.

 

[pu12en12g]

That triangle piece is used if you need to pull the motor out. It's used with the cherry picker and a chain.

Remember to unplug that O2 sensor.

1) Thanks !

2) Is this the O2 sensor ?

3) If not, what is it ?

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[s3v3n]

Yes.

 

[MadScientist92]

I like this write up. Looks good. Glad to see someone doing things right and taking there time.

 

[rich3389]

Good luch with that knock-off 16g, my GF had one on her car when she got it, it had no shaft play, and now, 2,000 miles later, it has crazy in and out play already! And it has only ever seen 10 psi!

 

[ApexVIII]

why didn'y uoi get a SSAC short rought, its made for a 2g... thats what i got!

 

[pu12en12g]

why didn'y uoi get a SSAC short rought, its made for a 2g... thats what i got!

Not really sure ? Learning as I go to say the least... can I short route this one ?

Advantages ?

 

[pu12en12g]

Day 3:

Taking a bit of a break to prep, and paint:

1) Heat shield: high temp semi-gloss black + high temp clear coat

2) Coolant reservoir bottle: high temp semi-gloss black + high temp clear coat (with unpainted line down one side)

3) Possibly some other parts

I really don't understand how some people can leave the heat shields unpainted. Looks terrible IMO.

1xHead-manifold gasket (if you plan on dropping the manifold to get it out)

^^^^ If I need a new one, does anyone know if checker / napa would typically have this ?
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[pu12en12g]

I like this write up. Looks good. Glad to see someone doing things right and taking there time.

Thanks, I think the car was leaking from the head-manifold gasket (?), so far it seems like it was a good move to remove the manifold / replace the gasket at this time.

 

[DSMunknown]

I was going to keep my mouth shut regarding this thread, but it seems I can't. I don't think "upgrading" to a larger turbo is the right idea here. Just because Tiny Tim took a shit on you doesn't necessarily give you the automatic right to just slap on a larger turbo. Even if you decide to run "safe" boost levels, I still don't agree with this decision.

It has been said before that people who haven't touched their engine management system or injectors but decide to throw on a larger turbo (eventually) complain about problems after (usually due to the install). People love to do shit backwards.

My own T25 blew over a year ago, and I have a lot of Evo shit lying around. I sucked it up and got another T25. But I don't dare think of buying a 16G "just because". I don't dare think about upgrading the turbo without knowing the injectors and DSM Link must come first. That's how I've been brought up, and I know it's right.

And no, I don't think the phrase "To each his own" applies here.

pu12en12g - Please fill out your profile completely.

 

[kmoore]

Painting those heat shields were a bad idea... they will turn brown after a couple of heat cycles. That is why people don't paint them.