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2g block in 1g

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fourgsixthree33

15+ Year Contributor
1,244
46
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
First off, I do not need a lecture as to why I shouldn't do this. It wasnt the plan, but my 1g 7 bolt girdle is unknown and only accepts the thrust bearing on the trans side of the girdle. So, i am using a 97 block in my 1g. It is already build and dropped in. Rear mount and tranny mount is bolted in. The driver side mount isnt quite bolting in right, so tonight i am going to modify that. As for the roll stop, we have a few ideas in mind requiring us to weld up some steel. I wanted to make this thread to see if some of you guys have done this and how you did it refering to the mount issues.
 
Good luck to you, I'll be checking this thread often! There is nothing wrong with a 2g 7-bolt, why not drop it in an engineless 1g, right? :thumb:

Unfortunately I have no advice on the technical stuff.
 
Are you using the 1g tranny? Is auto or 5 speed? How did you connect them together? I though you needed a conversion kit? Anyway, sorry for all the questions but im looking on some info on how to put a complete 2g automatic swap on my 1g, good luck
 
I had put a newer 4g63t in a 1g n/t, the driver's side motor mount base had to be changed out so i had to take off the timing components and change that out, then everything except the forward motor mount under the turbo worked fine. There was no place on the block to bolt the mount bracket to there on the one i had because that mount is on the transmission in a 2g.
 
I have searched this topic for weeks and have only found dead end threads from multiple sites and the swap was not completed.

In my opinion, the whole 2g 7 bolt "crank walk" thing is a bit over exagerated. Also, the 7 bolt parts are much easier to come by and generally cheaper. With that said, i would appreciate it if there were no debates in this thread comparing the 6 bolt to the 7 bolt. Its obvious this topic has already been beat to death.

I would however LOVE to hear from you guys that have successfully done the swap as well as listen to some ideas you others may have.

I plan to build a steel plate and bolt it to some existing holes in the block that arent used. Then, weld/bolt the bracket to this plate. Lastly, bolt the bracket into the mount.

The driver side motor mount needs to be modded as well. The part of the engine on the rear intake side does not line up. Is this normal? Modding this should be easy.
 
Why does the mount need modified? If your using a complete 7 bolt head and block than just get a 1g 7 bolt. The only time the mount on the driverside needs modifying is if you use a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block, and thats just a corner piece to clear the water pump.
 
We did it! The 2g is in the 1g with every motor mount in place and working. Literally took 4 hours to Fab everything. So to everyone who will say its possible but not worth it, 4 hours is nothing. We used 1/4 inch thick steel for the roll stop and welded nicely. Here's the driver motor mount, can't even tell its been extended a half inch
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What bracket and mount did you use for the back? I started looking at a set of mounts I have and the 2g auto tranny mount its the same as a 1g 5 speed mount, I figured I can cut and shave the mount and bracket on the driver side but I dont have anything to compare the rear one, or the front one?
 
The rear bracket is my stock 1g auto bolted in the stock 1g auto mount. No changes were made to the rear mount/bracket.

The driver side mount was cut in half, then a 1/4" squaree 1" x 1" tube was cut to length, then welded this to both pieces of the mount. It fit perfectly inside the mount.

The front was more complex. I cant upload pics via my cell so hopefully my friend will post the pics of the front bracket we made. We were able to keep the bushing mount on the cross member.

The engine sits in perfectly.

Here are pics of the roll stop bracket (if the pics show anyway).
 

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