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2g Battery Relocation

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DSM4LIFE-AWD

15+ Year Contributor
322
10
Aug 6, 2009
Trois-Rivieres, QC, Canada
After reading and searching all day long I came up with this draw.

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I still dont know if its the way to go ... Some threads say that you need to put an other 80 amp fuse near the starter ? Some say that the circuit breaker need to be after the switch ?

Well I used the diagram that came with the moroso kill-switch to do this picture and I want to know if I miss something before I put fire in my dsm ...

Thanks
 

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The only thing safer I see about your setup is that you can flick one switch and kill power to your whole car to work on it.

However, I think that aspect is outweighed by the fact that you've run to high current capacity wires the length of your car.
 
Can we please just get a simple diagram for those of us that are confused by all this madness LOL.... I recently bought my dsm and it does not have a batt tray in the engine bay, and mitsu nor dodge makes on anymore... LOL sucks for me, so I would like to relocate my batt to the trunk in a sealed box but have no idea what half this stuff is your all bickering about. All I want is a simple solution to my problem w/o anyone saying its wrong, a nice diagram would be greatly appreciated
 
Can we please just get a simple diagram for those of us that are confused by all this madness LOL....

Seriously man. You could install a shower diverter, a coffee machine and icemaker with one method, or do it the safest way that several others in this thread have already recommended and done.

I sign on because the forum wished me a Happy Birthday just to find some kid telling me I don't know what I'm doing–when I've posted both a diagram and a video of the safest and proper way to do this... the same exact way that several other racers and car audio pro's have posted. But what the #&%^ do I know? I'm just some random 40-year old guy with 15 years of track experience and a working relocated battery. I can't believe I got trolled on my birthday and fell for it. So to everyone else, sorry.
 
Seriously man. You could install a shower diverter, a coffee machine and icemaker with one method, or do it the safest way that several others in this thread have already recommended and done.

I sign on because the forum wished me a Happy Birthday just to find some kid telling me I don't know what I'm doing–when I've posted both a diagram and a video of the safest and proper way to do this... the same exact way that several other racers and car audio pro's have posted. But what the #&%^ do I know? I'm just some random 40-year old guy with 15 years of track experience and a working relocated battery. I can't believe I got trolled on my birthday and fell for it. So to everyone else, sorry.

Well, I thank everyone for all of their input. There are pros and cons to both and I think everyone here can make an informed decision based on the information in this thread. I would have to say that I think everyone knows what they are talking about it's just whether or not you want to have the safest route or not. Once again, thank you to everyone who has posted and responded to my question. I value each and everyone of your opinoins. Take care!

Also my daughter wanted me to put this pink smily on here. :coy:
 
Seriously man. You could install a shower diverter, a coffee machine and icemaker with one method, or do it the safest way that several others in this thread have already recommended and done.

I sign on because the forum wished me a Happy Birthday just to find some kid telling me I don't know what I'm doing–when I've posted both a diagram and a video of the safest and proper way to do this... the same exact way that several other racers and car audio pro's have posted. But what the #&%^ do I know? I'm just some random 40-year old guy with 15 years of track experience and a working relocated battery. I can't believe I got trolled on my birthday and fell for it. So to everyone else, sorry.

First, I do apologize for event that seems to have started this. It was rude of me to state it like fact that you don't know something. I was quite condescending and that was the wrong way to approach it. I have a way at getting under people's skin because I dumb everything I say. Like I said, very condescending. And again, I apologize.

But in my defense, you've seeming dodged this the whole time, which was the start of all this.

Jafro said:
...If you put the battery on the other end of 12 feet of wire, it has to send power backwards against the current to charge the battery while the battery is sending power back to the fuse box. That won't really work.

Maybe it was just a lapse in your thinking, but I did feel like it needed addressed.

I was going to make another argument for my point on why I don't think I'm as wrong as you make me out to be, but I see I've offended you to the point where discussion has ended.

I still don't understand why people feel the need to re-quote text that's immediately above? Maybe it's just an ego thing to make big unnecessary posts? Maybe it's a social disorder? Too much lead paint?

It's so I don't look like I'm talking to myself 2 days later. You aren't the first to go back and delete their posts. :toobad:
But no, the lead exposure wasn't from paint, it was from lead sinkers. I grew up fishing and may have snacked on a few before I knew better.

Oddly enough, I did a science fair project at one point that focused on using plants to remove lead from the soil in old neighborhoods where peeling lead paint had contaminated the soil. That project took me all the way to the state competition. LOL
 
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oddly enough, i did a science fair project at one point that focused on using plants to remove lead from the soil in old neighborhoods where peeling lead paint had contaminated the soil. That project took me all the way to the state competition. Lol

rofl
 
I just wanted to add my .02 I did the battery relocate to the trunk on my 2g gst spyder.
1. I ran 2 awg. From trunk to under the hood were the battery use to be I put 100 amp circuit breaker right by battery.
2. Then ran 2 awg from alt to starter then junction block make sure u mount on same side of battery wire to trunk.
3. The fuse box I took off the wire fore the alt on the side with the empty slot next to it. Then I ran 4 awg on the other side of alt fuse n the other two spots on both sides of the wire what it looks like n L total of 3 spots. Then ran all three wires to junction block. Make sure u don't disconnect the one single wire which that powers ## fuse panel under the dash unless u ran a 4 awg or 2 awg to replace that wire.
4. In the trunk I ran a ground wire to the seat belt bolt n another to a bolt next to battery in trunk I used 2 awg wire for both grounds of the battery.
5. Under the hood I ran a ground wire from the strut tower then throttle body then exhaust manifold then ground on alt I just used 4 awg for the grounds.
6. I ran a ground from other strut tower to the ground on coil packs. N another ground from fire wall to intake manifold I used also 4 awg for that wire to.

So that's how I setup my battery relocation n I get 14.1 volts at battery n junction block. An I never had any problems with this setup n if u want to make it track standards u can make adjustments to it won't be hard.....


P.S. all lugs I used were copper n I put solder in them the joined the wires n used heat shrink tubing red n black wit the glue inside I love that stuff u can get a pack 1 red 1 black per pack .59 at harbor freight I cut them down into threes made plenty of connections LOL.
If any body has questions feel free to pm me or reply on this thread.
 
options! ;)

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Main reasons... weight up front... car is FWD and I need all the weight I can upfront... also I wanna have full cranking power and reliability after sitting long period of time.
 
hey guys, those are all great diagrams of how to relocate the battery. i thought i'd jump in and post a little bit myself on this topic. the main thing i wanted to discuss was the wire size going from the battery in the trunk up to the front of the car. i noticed a couple times earlier in the thread people were saying 4AWG is okay to run the whole length of the car. in a way i sorta disagree. i think 4 gauge is kinda pushin it on the small size.

if you think about the main fusr box needin juice, the ecu, the alt., and the starter which draws ALOT (of course this is only for a few seconds) plus the totall length of the run 4gauge is pretty damn boarder line.

i have this wire size info chart from the US Coast Guard Standards (ive been a jet boat builder/rigger for about 7 or 8 years) and this paper i have to refer to at work when rigging boats. this chart makes it dumby proof to make sure that you use the correct size of wire. it basically has you add up all the amps and draw of all your components and the longer the run of wire the bigger the wire must get. i cant remember how long it was when i measured out my battery length but i refered to the chart and 4awg was to small and 2awg was the correct size.

i would assume that every other eclipse thats street driven is gonna be very simalar to my set up. so basically i wanted to mention if you stuff your battery in the trunk run 2gauge up front.

the other thing thats important to mention is the importance of having a breaker RIGHT OFF THE BATTERY. ABSOLUTLEY DO NOT RUN A HOT WIRE THE WHOLE LENGTH OF THE CAR AND NOT HAVE IT FUSED. what if you got in a car crash and that hot wire got pinched in a bunch a crumpled up metal? the battery wire would arch and weld and pop off like crazy and if you were hurt in the car you might burn to death over not having a 40 dollar part from napa.

i added up the totall draw on my system and with the starter going i figured that a 150amp breaker was just fine. this was purchased at any parts house for about 40bucks. i'll include a picture of my battery tie down as its a"frame work" tie down and not a enclosed case design. would somebody give opinion if this would pass tech?

also when your 2gauge wire goes up and ties into a buss bar, make sure the buss bar you use has a plastic protector cover of some sort. you dont want that distribution block to be 12v hot and not have a protector over it.

on my set up i have the master fuse box relocated into my glove box (wire tuck) the hot wires coming out of it i soldered into just one 4awg wire coming out, vs's the 4 smaller white wires that were there stock coming out of fuse box. also leaving my buss bar is the starter wire which had a short length so that was also 4gauge. i put my isolated buss bar hidden under the pass side floor panel which is factory used to protect the ABS ecu. hope these pictures help. and please give opinions on my battery tie down. thanks
 

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Sorry to revive this old thread...

Besides passing tech, there are other reasons an enclosure is important. your battery actually vents hydrogen gas through the top vents while it is charging. The battery needs to be in an airtight box with a vent tube running out of the car. sealed batterys like optima dont have this issue as far as i know.(BUT DONT QUOTE ME) also some BMW batterys include airline nipples for running a vent tube out of the car. interstate has them for a big chunk of change.

having said that these cars let air pass through them fast enough that hydrogen gas accumulation is highly unlikely. But, no reason you shouldnt understand some additional concerns when re-engineering your car. Hydrogen gas is somewhat dangerous in the wrong condiditons.
 
Good post^ I should say though, Optima offers completely sealed batteries. Some are sealed and some are vented with a nipple for the hose. I believe the sealed systems are more picky on their charging conditions, naturally.
 
Here is where I put my kill switch:

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Now just having a hard time to decide where I'm going to put my battery. I was thinking that I would get 1/2 plywood, cut the exact shape of the stock spare tire board and bolt down the battery box on the plywood. I would also do is add hinges so it swing like it would stock but just much more sturdy. Now just thinking if the techs at New England Dragway would not like that,LOL.
 

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