2g Balljoint Nut Unscrewing

[ncampos92562]

My front lower driverside balljoint nut has recently started to unscrew itself during use. It actually caused what looked like a balljoint failure(where the joint would snap while turning and send wheel into fender). But mine the joint is fine the nut just screwed itself off. I rescrewed it down covered in red loctite and it is still slowly backing off(maybe a full turn a day).

Anyone have any ideas of what else I could try to to keep it tight? New joint? Nut? JB weld?

 

[crimsondragon]

Get a new nylon lock nut. Technically, they should be replaced every time the nut is removed but realistically, it gets replaced when it stops locking. Also remember to torque it correctly. 49-51 ft*lbs.

 

[bryanwheat]

If you just torque it properly than it will never back off. IT is impossible because of the fact that the shaft on the joint locks into the spindle because of the taper.

 

[greengoblin]

My front lower driverside balljoint nut has recently started to unscrew itself during use. It actually caused what looked like a balljoint failure(where the joint would snap while turning and send wheel into fender). But mine the joint is fine the nut just screwed itself off. I rescrewed it down covered in red loctite and it is still slowly backing off(maybe a full turn a day).

Anyone have any ideas of what else I could try to to keep it tight? New joint? Nut? JB weld?

Like said above the nut are non reusable. The should be replaced every time you remove them as the FSM states.

Loctite will not work on a nylon lock nut. That's why, well, it didn't work.

If you just torque it properly than it will never back off. IT is impossible because of the fact that the shaft on the joint locks into the spindle because of the taper.

This is not alway the case though it should be. There is a good chance that the hole as been deformed. People like to smack the knuckle with a hammer to remove the ball joint instead of using a fork. Also driving around with the joint not properly torqued and loose could damage the interface.

I would inspect for galling and wear.

If non is visible present. I would reinstall the the arm with new nuts torqued to spec.

Then monitor the the joint very closely to make sure it stays put.

Kevin

 

[turboglenn]

using th ehammer on th e side is an old way of doing it and most ball joint areas have a flat spot for using this method. the important thing i've found to do si make sure the hiole and ball joint are clean and dry... also sppreay from carb cleaner in there and then use a jack under the ball joint to hold it inj the hole, this always helps me in both installing and removing

 

[97gst_spyder]

If it spins with a new nut and clean dry stud, use super glue. It will hold it in place for you to TQ the nut down.

 

[bryanwheat]

If the stud spins than you just put a jack under the lower control arm and a wooden block between the upper control arm and inner fenders. It will push the stud into the taper and allow you to tighten the nut without the stud spinning. As for hitting the spindle with a hammer to get it apart versus a fork. The fork is a horrible tool, it will damage the boot every time, and it can also damage the ball joint. Smacking the spindle with a hammer is the best way i've found to do them. It works every time and doesn't tear the boot. Also you CAN re-install the nut and it won't come off, If torqued properly than the nut will never come off, even if it wasn't a lock nut it still wouldn't loosen in theory. The nylon in the nut is just for insurance that it stays put.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Goblin beat me with nylon vs loc-tite.

If it spins with a new nut and clean dry stud, use super glue. It will hold it in place for you to TQ the nut down.

I can't wait to try this. I've had the ever-spinning balljoint, too.

If the stud spins than you just put a jack under the lower control arm and a wooden block between the upper control arm and inner fenders. It will push the stud into the taper and allow you to tighten the nut without the stud spinning. As for hitting the spindle with a hammer to get it apart versus a fork. The fork is a horrible tool, it will damage the boot every time, and it can also damage the ball joint. Smacking the spindle with a hammer is the best way i've found to do them. It works every time and doesn't tear the boot. Also you CAN re-install the nut and it won't come off, If torqued properly than the nut will never come off, even if it wasn't a lock nut it still wouldn't loosen in theory. The nylon in the nut is just for insurance that it stays put.

This doesn't always work for me.


However, a better tool than a hammer is this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[crimsondragon]

Also you CAN re-install the nut and it won't come off, If torqued properly than the nut will never come off, even if it wasn't a lock nut it still wouldn't loosen in theory. The nylon in the nut is just for insurance that it stays put.

If the arm sees vibration then the nut will loosen regardless of torque. I was working on cutting the rear eccentric bolt for the toe arm. I had the nut threaded down to keep from losing it. The nylon was done and I still needed to move the car around to work on it so I refrained from using a new nut. As I finished cutting I looked down and saw that sucker on the floor. Only thing holding my arm was the taper on the ball joint.

 

[bryanwheat]

Goblin beat me with nylon vs loc-tite.



I can't wait to try this. I've had the ever-spinning balljoint, too.



This doesn't always work for me.


However, a better tool than a hammer is this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You just need a bigger hammer. When working in a transmission shop for 2 and a half years we popped ball joints loose all day long every day with hammers, out of the thousands of cars that went thru there was never a need for any special tools.

 

[bmoha7321]

Make sure it's the right nut. Make sure that the end of the threaded stud of the balljoint extends past the end of the nylon of the nut. If it doesn't it's not doing much.
And replace nut every time.

 

[ncampos92562]

Think I found the problem. No nylon nut just a basic one. Guess I'll go pick one up tomorrow.

 

[97gst_spyder]

I can't wait to try this. I've had the ever-spinning balljoint, too.

You would put some glue on the shaft then jack it up under it so its forced together. Come back 5-10 min later, and go to town with the new nut.

Chris

 

[bmoha7321]

A large set of channel locks. Works everytime and easily too.

 

[ncampos92562]

Does anyone know the nut dimensions and size?

 

[CODE4]

Does anyone know the nut dimensions and size?

No, but just buy a new one.

A few bucks, Part # MU432101.

 

[knochgoon24]

You could also think about safety wiring it if it still wants to back off for some reason, or just to make sure it doesn't happen again.

 

[greengoblin]

If it keep backing off even with a new nut torqued to spec there is something else really wrong and parts need to be replaced. IMO

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes all that i would just get another one, and see if that helps your problelm.

 

[bjones18]

Something is wrong with your joint.

Nylon inserts, cotter pins, lock-washers, and lock-tight. are means of keeping loose joints from falling apart.

A bolt (or ball joint in this case) stretches (elongates) as you torque the nut down. If you do not understand this, refer to engine-builders who measure rod-bolt stretch as a precise method instead of nut-torque. Again, bolt-stretch and friction (thread & under head) prevent torque-loss.

It's hard to say why your nut is backing off. Start by inspecting the taper-stud and taper-hole for any damage.

 

[Rob10_99]

If you have driven it with the taper part loose, I would find a new steering knuckle and do it right this time. It's not worth having the knuckle come loose and crashing into something/someone.

 

[ncampos92562]

Would you guys recommend just getting a new arm with balljoint? I'm guessing the threads are getting worn and old. This only started happening in the last few weeks.