2G ABS Light

[summerisway2hot]

I have a 97 TSi AWD, and when I bought it, it had spent a good part of its life sitting in a field (well, seven years to be exact...). I bought it, did all the stuff that it needs (timing belt, belts, hoses, water pump, etc.) and got it running and on the road. I now only have two real problems with it. The ABS light comes on. Now, before all of you people that have been around for a while say "this is another newbie, the stupid S.O.B," I have tried the ABS diagnostic given in the tech article threads. When I ground pin 1 and turn the ignition to on, the ABS light just stays on until i take the ground off, at which point it flashes quickly and goes out. I can start the car and stay in one place just fine, but once the car starts moving at ~5mph, the ABS light comes back on. Now, I cannot find which wheel sensor it is, but that is where I am starting considering the scenario. I have a diagnostic tool, but of course it only works for the CEL and not the ABS light. Also, to all you that may say "bahhh ABS is useless," I live in Maine, and I commute at least 3 hours each way every weekend during the winter to work (college student, work on weekends). I had a tracker without ABS for a few years, and it was not pleasant. So, I want ABS.

Problem number two, and hopefully I have already solved it, is that the suspension on the passengers side of the car squeaks. Loud. I dont believe it is the ball joint, and I PB/ WD40'd everything I could get to (sway bar rubber, any open rubber on the suspension system, and just generally anything that looked like it could need it). It squeaks especially bad when I am stopped and turning the wheel, or when I go over many large bumps (Maine has a lot of large bumps). Is there anything else I should do besides lube and pray or what?

Thanks in advance for anything that you can do to help me out.

 

[Dsmj89]

My abs light also has this same problem you are describing. When starting to move the car the light comes back on. I know my abs is working cause i already floored the brake pedal once and the car came to a halt and the wheels never locked up, yet the damn light is still on.
Do what i plan to do to, take your wheels off and check to see if any of your abs lines is making false contact or rubbing against anything in your suspension or braking system, like other misc. lines.
If that doesn't work just take your cluster off and take out the little annoying bulb.

As for the squeak, i'm sorry to say but my friend also had this same exact problem in his gst and oddly enough about 2 weeks later his balljoint decided to call it quits.
I would get this replaced asap.

 

[bigal07]

squeking noise could be tie rod or ball joints, have someone turn the wheel or bounce it and stick your head under it, usually its balljoints.

 

[summerisway2hot]

From what I have been able to gather, the upper ball joint is not where it is coming from, sounds more like its coming from directly inboard of the center of the wheel, but I dont know, I also don't know what sitting for 7 years may have done to the various suspension components... The thing I find interesting is that the car does not have to go up and down, I just have to turn the wheel and it will do the same noise, which made me think tie rod, but the tie rod is tight... Just kinda lost on the whole situation I guess.

Ill plan on taking off the wheels this weekend and seeing if I can find anything for the ABS, thanks for the tip.

 

[bigal07]

I just remembered that a friend of mine has a 98 gst that was making the same noise and it ended up being covered under a recall and replaced the strut and spring on one side due the spring making noise. I'd call a dealership and have them check recalls for you.

 

[2slow4utsi]

I was going to say hub and bearing but I guess you got it figured out. Usually that's what causes an ABS light.

 

[Kastigir]

My abs light also has this same problem you are describing. When starting to move the car the light comes back on. I know my abs is working cause i already floored the brake pedal once and the car came to a halt and the wheels never locked up, yet the damn light is still on.
Do what i plan to do to, take your wheels off and check to see if any of your abs lines is making false contact or rubbing against anything in your suspension or braking system, like other misc. lines.
If that doesn't work just take your cluster off and take out the little annoying bulb.

As for the squeak, i'm sorry to say but my friend also had this same exact problem in his gst and oddly enough about 2 weeks later his balljoint decided to call it quits.
I would get this replaced asap.

If the ABS light is on, there is a fault with the system, and it SHOULD NOT operate. My ABS light is on and it in fact does not work.

 

[Dsmj89]

If the ABS light is on, there is a fault with the system, and it SHOULD NOT operate. My ABS light is on and it in fact does not work.

And mine DOES work, i've put it to the test, yet the light is still on...

 

[summerisway2hot]

so i should go hammer on my abs on a dirt road to see if they anti lock?

 

[Need2Gofaster]

Did you ever figure out how to clear your ABS code?

 

[Dsmj89]

so i should go hammer on my abs on a dirt road to see if they anti lock?

Try it on a empty paved road first before anything else. I yet to take mine to my mech or mitsu and scan the code anyways before i pull the light bulb.

 

[summerisway2hot]

puttin the brake down on pavement does not lock the wheels up, dont know if this is good or not (kind of a wide tire to slide...) so I am planning on doing it on dirt soon. I still cannot clear the ABS light.

 

[#40Fan]

You can unplug all 4 wheel speed sensors and ohm them all. The odd one out will tell you which is the problem.

Also, after you have drove the vehicle and the light is on, don't shut it off and ground pin 1. Or take it to a shop and for a minimal fee they will tell you what is wrong.

 

[Artago]

I haven't read the whole thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.

A transfer case that's about to lock up with trigger a ABS light. I'm not saying it's your t-case but it's worth checking out.

I had 2 separate t-case lock ups and both were preceded by the ABS light coming on.

Food for thought,

Tom

 

[#40Fan]

Well, now that I think about it, an open speed sensor should kick the light on right away. Might take a good look at the tone rings located at the end of the axle shafts. One that is missing a tooth or two, or completely gone would cause the light to come on at the speeds you are indicating.

 

[summerisway2hot]

I haven't read the whole thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.

A transfer case that's about to lock up with trigger a ABS light. I'm not saying it's your t-case but it's worth checking out.

I had 2 separate t-case lock ups and both were preceded by the ABS light coming on.

Food for thought,

Tom

eeeeeeeekkkk!!!!, but did it happen to you only when you moved?

You can unplug all 4 wheel speed sensors and ohm them all. The odd one out will tell you which is the problem.

Also, after you have drove the vehicle and the light is on, don't shut it off and ground pin 1. Or take it to a shop and for a minimal fee they will tell you what is wrong.

I'll ohm the speed sensors, took it to a shop and in order to sit in it and try to read the code (that i already tried to read), i paid money for them doing and solving nothing. the heck with that.

Well, now that I think about it, an open speed sensor should kick the light on right away. Might take a good look at the tone rings located at the end of the axle shafts. One that is missing a tooth or two, or completely gone would cause the light to come on at the speeds you are indicating.

When I go home next, ill give it a shot.