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2g 2.4L 4g64 7-bolt Bottom End Swap.

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Oh ok, I miss read your post. But a person could use the stock PT cruiser turbo pistons right. They should be just as strong as 2G T pistons I would think.

I got my Wiseco's for $409 plus 5 bucks for drop ship fee, and a set of Eagles for 339.00
 
Yeah i got my pistons for $297 if i recall right, or something close to that only because of an inside source.


Im sure you could use the turbo Pt pistons, far as beign as strong as 2g pistons... i dont want to lead people thinking they are, i have not done any reviews on it.

The most i plan on running, psi wise, on my 2.4L is at most 25psi with c16. That is if i can even do that w/o knock and some other things of saftey.
 
i work for/with a hahns race craft distributor...there is my deal

i still did fork the money over for my rods but made up for it with the $180 1mm oversized ferrea valves :shhh: :thumb:
 
Originally posted by HybridAWD
Are you talking about stock turbo PT pistons? Im using the weisco turbo pt pistons with 2g crower rods. I do believe the pistons with rings alone will cost the people about $400-$450. Dont quote me on that

Was that you that sent me a link for Wiseco Turbo PT pistons for ~$200?
 
well just for general knowledge,

I tried to order the special weisco 4G63/4G64 hybrid pistons with a 20 over bore and the guy said that they dont make an over bore because their pistons are just a stock 4G63 piston with a 60 over bore.

so make sure you block doesnt need to be bored before ordering.
 
My Wiseco's are .020 over, 4.251 Stock bore is 3.406
I could give you a part # but mine are the small pin (6 bolt)
Try Race Engineering www.raceeng.com
Didn't have them in stock so they drop shipped them to me, I still got them in 5 days.

You are right, it's just a 0.060 bigger than a 2.0 piston, hmm I wonder if mitsu make a 0.060 over 2.0T piston for anyone with a good stock bore and wanting to do it cheaper.
 
If my math is right, 1mm = .040"
so if you wanted to just order .040" 4g63 pistons

if you want to make it a bit easier..... let me do my compression test and cc test to make sure everything comes out ok.... results will be out as of friday at the latest... it will work though :thumb:

also one more statement: i need to take pictures of the Pt pistons verse the 4g63 pistons.... i know i was surprised and yet a little bit happy about whats made diffrent on them :).... i have yet to see a 4g63 weisco but i compares the weisco to my stock 4g63 piston and they were diffrent.... but now yall have to wait for my pictures :cry: :p OMG :shhh:
 
The standard 63 bore is 3.346, the 64's std bore is 3.406. That's 0.060 or 1.5mm bigger than the 63 piston.
 
Originally posted by spoolints04
The standard 63 bore is 3.346, the 64's std bore is 3.406. That's 0.060 or 1.5mm bigger than the 63 piston.


oops >_< sorry, you are right... im not sure what ive been stuck on that for. 85mm = 63, 86.5mm = 64
 
i balanced my crank but didnt knife cut my crank... only reason being is it doesnt gain that much....

about saying the 4g64 isnt as "free" reving as the 4g63, i beg to differ and so do some other big name people.... <couch cough> magnus.

Yes it has worse rod angles, but so do honduh's :) anyways i cant argue this point because ive never hard core studied it as much as marcos has... aka magnus
 
I see your point but no one can argue that a less than desireable rod ratio revs like those that have an optimal or closest to one.

I personally and going to knife edge my crank I doubt that I will be able to feel the difference but if I get a good deal on it who cares ;)
 
Originally posted by HybridAWD

about saying the 4g64 isnt as "free" reving as the 4g63, i beg to differ and so do some other big name people.... <couch cough> magnus.

So what can you rev the 4g64 to after doing a swap to turbo setup. And has anyone came up with a general price (minus the special discounts some people get) for a short block assembly?
This is a straight drop in besides shaving the motor mounts?
Thanks guys
 
Well, Marcos is talking 10k+, its all about how well the valve train is built/made and how well all the clearances are... basically how strong you can make things and how much you can push to get away with it....
take S2K's for example..... stock from factory 9k rpm redline :thumb:

I cant give you a price on what the swap will cost, it all depends on what you want... 5k seems to be a fair price for a good long block assembly i would think this is without machine work.... keep in mind this is very very rough estimate... im around 8k
 
well as far as price goes I think this can be no more expensive as a normal 4g63 build up I personally have only bought the block,pistons,and rods. So far the price has come up to 1k. I think you should just shop around.
 
Originally posted by talonted_one
well as far as price goes I think this can be no more expensive as a normal 4g63 build up I personally have only bought the block,pistons,and rods. So far the price has come up to 1k. I think you should just shop around.

here is my prices:
Seiman Deka 720cc injectors $375 (got 680 ball style since they were out)
APEXi SAFC $290
Pro Street intercooler $1,238
Buschur Balance shaft elim kit $75.00
Findanza Cam Gears $208.80 (crane make findanza, key to save money!)
Walbro 255lph Pump w/kit $114.42
Cyberdyne A/F gauge $59.21
Polyurethane Motor Mounts $99
UR underdrive pulley $219
Buschur 3" cat-back $450
Fuel Fitting (-6an) and gauge $110.93
Madrel 3" bend for my DP $27.98
-6an braided SS line $80.14
4" dejon tool Intake w.o recir tube $140.95
K&N FIPK $118.42
Crower Rods $683.90
Weisco Pistons $285 or so
Bearings Free
Machine Work $450ish
head Gasket $104
HKS 272's $500 set
Magnus Intake Manifold $400
Greddy Gauges $450 (all 3 60mm)
MSD DIS-2 $200
Aeromotive FPR $125
Greddy Profec B $200

i think that is everything.... it all depends on what you use basically
You cant give an exact number.... you may lik eagle rods over crower OMG but that is your opinion! So anything will affect cost good luck:thumb:
 
not sure if this only involves 7 bolt motor and 6 bolt:

I assembled my motor last night and ran into yet another problem.
My crower rod on the #3 cylinder runs into what seems to be a "seam" for the balance shaft. Every other rod clears by at least 1/2". I have to grind down the "ridge" ,or whatever you want to call it, and reclean the block and then reassemble. I will have some pictures posted tonight hopefully. :cry: more delay :cry:.
 
Yes that is right. I don't recall the thread it was a couple of months back, and I believe it was from "POLK". About the stroker motors (4G64 crank) with Crower rods hitting the block on #3, and Eagle rod motors hitting the main cap straps on #1 and #4. It was a good thread complete with pictures and some details on how much to remove.

Clearence it, clean it, assemble it and move on, good luck, you will like the torque.
 
Originally posted by Big Woo
Clearence it, clean it, assemble it and move on, good luck, you will like the torque.
Yep thats all i can do... i know ill like the torque but will my tranny :), i hope the shift forks hold me for a while :|
 
Does anybody know how much a factory new 94 Galant DOHC 4g64 block and crank would cost??
 
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