259 hp / 239 tq on 23 psi v-trim. Wait...what?

[97gstjosh]

I'll be very interested to see what you make at that boost level. What are you currently running for tuning and will you be able to post logs for us to see? Your profile mods up to date?

Also, I've been seeing people recommend clutch setups both ways. 2100's with 4-pucks for more torque and 2600's with street disks for drivability. I'm just not sure which would be better for me, especially seeing how I have very little time behind the wheel of a stick. Honestly, the only thing I've driven is my dad's 1g Viper (not bragging, honest, its pretty old) and its much easier to drive because of its extremely short throw and how it just....wants to move as you let the clutch out. Don't even have to touch the gas. Very hard to stall.

Thanks man. Im using DSMLink FTW
My profile mods are up to date and Let me see about the logs. My buddy Mr. Deipro has them on his laptop so I will get them from him ASAP. Honestly auto tranny with the right mods and you will be fine and make power. Thats just my opinion though.

 

[booostedGSX]

I'm just catching the tail end of this thread, but I have noticed spotty performance of the V-Trims. A friend of mine ran a 11.40 and about 415ish whp on a V-Trim. But then there is the ridiculous amount of people who barely see 300 whp.

After reading up on here, I decided strongly against a V-Trim.

Back to the topic though... Sorry to hear about that blown motor. But work on that tune and you'll be making power in no time.

Also, have you considered a GM MAFT to help with the overrun?

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

Yeah, the V-trims I'm learning are hit-or-miss at best. I'd gotten mine...lets see...in 2005? November 2005 I think, back when there were the huge threads and debates about them. I'm wondering if different batches of them performed differently / built differently. Mine certaintly has some spool issues as you can see from my logs. Beginning spool at 4500 RPM is hardly very usable.

 

[97gstjosh]

Wow 4500 RPMS
Thats insane man. E316G FTW saw full spool at 3000 RPMS and holds 23 pounds to redline.
Turbos of the same kind shouldnt be hit or miss

 

[dsm-onster]

There's something wrong. You should be spooling sooner. What turbine wheel and turbine housing do you have? The t31 (t3 stage 3)? is the housing a bolton housing? That is the common turbine wheel and if you have a bolton housing, no matter the compressor you should see FULL BOOST about 400rpms sooner.

An automatic car makes the turbo more laggy, hense the stock 1g has a td04 13g and shorter duration cams for faster spool.

. . .Wait! WTF their wideband is WAY OFF!!! There is NO WAY you are above 11:1 a/f ration with 650s at over 90% IDC at only 34lb/min airflow. Unless you mass airflow sensor is completely off calibration. Considering you have a 2g maf, an uncalibrated maf would be unbelievable. And if it is hacked (modified) it would read lean and your ecu would lower the IDC. Your tuner INCREASED fuel over the stock rich map which shoots for 9.5:1 at WOT high load and higher rpms. The wideband used to tune was NOT correctly setup/calibrated.

This would lead to poor spool and low power numbers. DSMLink estimate is showing over 350whp. But your 70-90 time is ~3.2 seconds. Not indicative of 350whp. . . Did you pay some one to "tune" your car? because they did nothing to the timing curve and made things worse with the fuel curve.

 

[JayRolla]

My street disc with the 2600 is8-9 yrs old, well over 100 awd launches, and it hasnt fallen apart yet.

Well if you let them cool/rest between launches they can actually last a long time. Ive just seen them fail when people do multiple launches back to back at the strip.

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

There's something wrong. You should be spooling sooner. What turbine wheel and turbine housing do you have? The t31 (t3 stage 3)? is the housing a bolton housing? That is the common turbine wheel and if you have a bolton housing, no matter the compressor you should see FULL BOOST about 400rpms sooner.

An automatic car makes the turbo more laggy, hense the stock 1g has a td04 13g and shorter duration cams for faster spool.

. . .Wait! WTF their wideband is WAY OFF!!! There is NO WAY you are above 11:1 a/f ration with 650s at over 90% IDC at only 34lb/min airflow. Unless you mass airflow sensor is completely off calibration. Considering you have a 2g maf, an uncalibrated maf would be unbelievable. And if it is hacked (modified) it would read lean and your ecu would lower the IDC. Your tuner INCREASED fuel over the stock rich map which shoots for 9.5:1 at WOT high load and higher rpms. The wideband used to tune was NOT correctly setup/calibrated.

This would lead to poor spool and low power numbers. DSMLink estimate is showing over 350whp. But your 70-90 time is ~3.2 seconds. Not indicative of 350whp. . . Did you pay some one to "tune" your car? because they did nothing to the timing curve and made things worse with the fuel curve.

Believe it is a .63 a/r exhaust side bolt-on housing. Not positive though. Its been so long since I bought it, its kinda hard to remember.

I'm afraid I tuned it myself, so I'll have to take all the blame. Unfortunately, we'd been messing with the settings on the way to the dyno shop struggling to eliminate the knock I'd beeen getting above 5k (I'm at work right now, so I'm unable to view my logs). My 2g maf is definitely unhacked or modified in anyway. Now I was looking at the injector / fuel pump flow ratings posted earlier and was wondering if my knock was from insufficient flow from my 190lph pump. I was definitely at 23 lbs though through most of the pull. Not sure what the final boost pressure (or EGT temp) was towards the end of the pull as I was busy watching my RPMs. I turned down the boost in the final run to help get rid of the knock, but I can't remember what it was or how much less power it made. I was disgusted by that point.

I'll see if I can post the lower boost log when I get home. Maybe we'll be able to extract some useful information from it. Also, about what WHP is a ~3.2 70-90 time good for? I imagine it can't be good. I'm curious how accurate my dyno reading was now. Also, you were aware that I was using a tube and fin front mount with 2" inlets and outlets. That might have hurt my flow / spool some.

 

[Gamble97]

Ok, I'm not going to read this whole thread, but honestly you should be pretty happy with those numbers. Why you ask?
For 1 because it's an auto. A auto car putting down 270-290whp is a mid 12sec car down the track.
For 2 you have pretty much NO tune at all.
For 3, your boostEst is REALLY far off, check for a leak between the intake pipe and the turbo inlet.
1992 Talon Tsi AWD Project and the dsmlink wiki will have the answers for you. Get a gm map sensor if you don't have one already and and tune your airflow, that will make a huge improvment.
Also your car isn't making that much when you have up to 6counts of knock. Richen it up to about 11.2-11.5
You also don't have a lot of timing (mostly becuase of knock)

Fix that stuff, and I would think you would be closer to where you want to be.

Also if you want to lower your duty cycle rewire your fuel pump.