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spoolingsx92

Probationary Member
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May 3, 2004
massilon, Ohio
ok i have a 92 talon awd 5spd here is what its doing

smoking realy bad when i hit the gas not asmuch at idle blue/white

start the car idels at 2 grand cold worm 1000rpms

when i am driving it will rev up realy high at like 5000 rpm and 13psi no power it will go just realy slow that was in 2nd gear havet tryed any others yet when in wot :cry:

if i iam normal driving it has lots of power or when i eas it on

when it worms up and i am geting on it it backfires

my bov vent tube blows off under high boost not clamed it yet

it is also realy hard to shift i dont realy care about that yet

it also dont like to star in less some one is holding the neg batter cable on realy tight

i just put new spit fire plugs in and changed the fuel filter to try to help it and it didnt help
who ever tells me what wrong i will give them 20$ thanks
 
How about 20 bucks for a grammar lesson?
 
I'm having the same problem with my talon now. First it started putting off some "steam" (it most likely isn't steam ... but it sure looks like it) near the exhaust manifold, and then when my dad just drove it, the RPMs suddenly shot up to 5000 and they kept rising. I'm going to check out the throttle body and the acceleration wires once the car cools off and also make sure my exhaust manifold is on tight ( since I took some of the bolts off it when the new engine went in the car. )

I'll let you know if I find anything weird.
 
spoolingsx92 said:
ok i have a 92 talon awd 5spd here is what its doing

smoking realy bad when i hit the gas not asmuch at idle blue/white

start the car idels at 2 grand cold worm 1000rpms

when i am driving it will rev up realy high at like 5000 rpm and 13psi no power it will go just realy slow that was in 2nd gear havet tryed any others yet when in wot :cry:

if i iam normal driving it has lots of power or when i eas it on

when it worms up and i am geting on it it backfires

my bov vent tube blows off under high boost not clamed it yet

it is also realy hard to shift i dont realy care about that yet

it also dont like to star in less some one is holding the neg batter cable on realy tight

i just put new spit fire plugs in and changed the fuel filter to try to help it and it didnt help
who ever tells me what wrong i will give them 20$ thanks


Ok lets see First off what do you have done to your car as in mods??

1) Smoking at idle is a sign of running rich blue smoke in running very rich
White smoke you are burning radiator fluid have you replaced you head gasket

2) Idleing high is a cause of many things I recommend doing a serch on this site about wired idles to fix my idol porblem i just replaced my Throtle body rubber seals

3) (when i am driving it will rev up realy high at like 5000 rpm and 13psi no power it will go just realy slow that was in 2nd gear havet tryed any others yet when in wot)I have no idea what you are saying But a guess is that you are droping your clutch at 5k rpms and spooling 13 psi and you arnt going no wear if that is right you have boost leak!!

4) Getting back fires have you replaced the stock exhaust or have you upgraded???

5) Your Bov vent tube keeps blowing off which one, the one to the intake, or to the head. the one to the intake use SS wire it tightly secure it on and do you still have your stock clamp on there ??

6)Really hard to shift use BG Syncro Shift or Penzoil syncro mesh, it will help alot had the same problem i used BG it fixed it right up

7) replace the stock battery connectors go to advanced auto talk to the guy say you need replacement battery connectors


:talon:
 
i have a 2.5 d/p with 3'no cat back the only thing done o it has a thermal muffler on it
 
no i am not droping the clutch at all start out at maybe 1500 rpms then when i get on it it will rev up to around or higher 5000 rps and 13or 14 psi and nothing the car is slow my girls civic 1.5l 5spd beat me no mods done to

its like the power isnt geting to the wheels

also have an act 2100 clutch


but when i eas it on it drive fine no back fire or anything

also was told splitfire plug will burn a hole in my pistion is this tru
 
Do a compression test on it and see what you are it. That will help out alot. And sorry about teh civic. THAT HURTS :barf:
 
I agree with orangeGST do a compression losing compression can slow ya down big time
The next step is do you know how to do a compression test if ya do you are on your way if ya dont go to the link below and cheak it out But check out that other stuff I said before head gasket is a must your exhaust setup is why you are backfireing you have no backpresure and your problems on top off all that ar'nt helping

I have never heard any thing about spit fire plugs but I recomend the factory plugs NGK they are pretty much the best you can get.

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

:talon:
 
ok i will ask a freind to see if he can do the test anything other then that can he cheack while hes at it he works at satans place so he should be able to tell me whats wrong i hope but still anymore help would be good
 
92Talon251 said:
Ok lets see First off what do you have done to your car as in mods??

1) Smoking at idle is a sign of running rich blue smoke in running very rich
White smoke you are burning radiator fluid have you replaced you head gasket
I disagree.... Bluish-white smoke is indicative of oil getting in the combustion chamber, whether it's the piston rings, valve seals, or a blown turbo. Black smoke usually means you're running rich. White steam usually means coolant.

To me, it sounds like you have a combination of two or more problems, but this is what I'd suggest:

First, get your electrical problem fixed. From there, suspect three things: boost leaks, your turbo, and the head gasket.

1) Check for boost/vacuum leaks. This will cause backfiring under acceleration and possible idle surge problems.

2) Check your overflow tank and/or Drain some coolant from the radiator and check for oil in the system. If there's oil in there, suspect a blown headgasket.

3) Check compression.

4) If compression is bad, drop a few squirts of oil into each cylinder below 120psi and see if it brings compression up. If so, you have worn piston rings, which means its time for a rebuild. If not, it'll probably be your headgasket or a burnt/bent valve.

5) Check your intercooler pipes for lots of oil. If there's a bunch of oil in your I/C pipes after the turbo, your turbo is probably blown.

6) Check your turbo for side to side shaft play. If there is a lot, you may have a blown seal that's allowing a bunch of oil to make it into the exhaust. You can verify this if you take off the turbo and there's not a whole lot of carbon buildup in the exhaust manifold, but there's a lot more of it in the O2 sensor housing (after the turbo).

I'll post more if I can think of anything I missed.

I'm guessing since you have more smoke when you're accelerating, the cause is probably your turbo, or maybe your headgasket.
 
hey also when my car is sitting the vc gauge is at - all the way down and when i am not moving like nutril and reving the car the boost gauge dosnt boost at all if that help i am going to hook up and after market gauge and see what happens thanks
 
What do you mean by the vacuum gauge is "all the way down?" At 0, or at -30in/hg?

You should be boosting at least 3-4PSI in neutral at higher RPM...
 
ok like the vac part is at 0 all the way at the bottom when in nutril and reving up to any rpm only when i am driving the boost goes up
 
You shouldnt be boosting any PSI what so ever in neutral, you can't build boost in neutral if you are useing the stock guage under your tak it should be at neg side when in neutral the only time it should be at 0 ( in the middle ) is when you turn the key to start the car. as long as your guage doesnt stay at 0 (in the middle) all the time, driving or park, your turbo should still be spooling.

:talon:
 
ok i am giving up i toke it to the shop to put it on the scoop i know they are going to tell me they dont know what it is but for the price of a compreassin gauge they say they will do the test and put it on the scoop so i will know 2 marrow at 1pm i know that means 5 or 6 pm LOL so i will let you guys now whats up when i get it back
 
psychlow said:
I build 10PSI quite frequently.

See this video.

Is your car an auto or manual? If auto, thats why you get boost in nuetral. Its the drag that the torque converter creates. My GST manual, will idle at -7 lbs and then rev to 0. If I rap it out all the way to 6800rpm or more than it might hit 3 lbs. Yes thats on the factory gauge :laugh:
 
i got the car back and what they said for sure was only going to be 45 $ to cheack it out ended up to be 75 even tho i told them to call me if they were going to do anything more to it

but i got the great news )))) not

pistion rings are worn))))) why it is smoking

clutch is gone )))) why im not geting power to the wheels

exust is to big ))) thats why i am back fireing

the high idel was couse the battery termanels were loss and every time it didnt get a good ground the ecu would reset it self 12$ to tighten the bolt LOL wow

o and they didnt do the compresion test. so i went and got me an eng stand and a couple 24 packs for the nexted few days and my girl and a freind and were going to pull it and do a rebuild fun fun fun

((((((cheack the timing belt and it was eat up on the side nut much of it a lil bit but ))))))
 
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