1g Turbo.

[project1g]

I've heard its all good to put the stock turbo on an NT motor but my next question is since the NT motor has higher compression can't I just lower the compression and do some of the same turbo upgrades as some of the GS-Ts that I see running around? In my head it kind of makes since and I want some clarification

 

[project1g]

from what i have read, the n/t block is better due to squirter failure and oil pressure drop. but just like these guys here have said, you will have to do some research and pick which is best for you. i will be doing a n/t to turbo conversion this winter. i am using a n/t block, stock internals, and putting an old 13b turbo on it with a shaved head and a .060 mls gasket. now im looking for a parts car cheap just so i can run it the track to see what happens..

I plan on selling mine before May and the engine is in pretty good shape minus the fact that I can't figure out why my a/c and heater drop my idle almost halfway. If you're still looking by May holla at me. I gotta get it sold before I move.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just keep in mind that low knock is imperative. The stock n/t pistons may handle the force of 400whp pushing it down but detonation at that point is so very detrimental. The beauty of durable pistons is the durability. Many weaker pistons can handle lots of power, but its the "oops too much timing and I've got 1-3 counts of knock" that separates the weak pistons from the strong pistons. It's not worth using n/t pistons if I can't 'sweep' my tune to find the knock threshold for my setup because the instance of knock cracks the piston through the shallow n/t ring land depth.

Oil squirters greatly cool the piston . . . supposedly. I've not known of ANY oil squirter failures due to pouring on the boost, increasing airflow, more power, or any such nonsense! The oil squirters simply lower the oil pressure. The 4g63 block can still function ideally through a wide range of oil pressures. Oil squirters are not a weakness. . . but they may be only a minimal strength.

 

[timloomis]

I'm sure the squirters dont hurt. The turbo 4g63 I built and sold was a n/a block with turbo internals. I was told it put 342 to the ground. I know that's not a whole lot of power, but I haven't recieved another email saying it blew up.

 

[dsm-onster]

So we're concluding in unison that oil squirters are inconsequential to durability?

 

[kronus]

Hmmm, I suppose if you ran some type of water/meth injection, you could probably try your 'sweep' on those pistons.

 

[dsm-onster]

Of course! But many still don't live and breath by that stuff yet. Guys that turbo their n/a usually are the guys that don't want a lot of complication. They're not doing a piston swap or turbo block swap. I understand.

I say go for it and add water injection if you're driving around your n/a. If you have the n/a engine out or the head off already, then pull the pistons for your own sake.

 

[timloomis]

I'm still *asuming* the squirters dont affect durability at all. But I'm sure they help in keeping knock low since they cool things down. I don't know the tune of that motor I sold, but I wasn't told that it had knock issues. The engine in my tsi is a turbo block, just because it's the one I rebuilt. If I had a n/a block instead, I would've used it without thinking twice.

 

[kronus]

I'm still *asuming* the squirters dont affect durability at all. But I'm sure they help in keeping knock low since they cool things down. I don't know the tune of that motor I sold, but I wasn't told that it had knock issues. The engine in my tsi is a turbo block, just because it's the one I rebuilt. If I had a n/a block instead, I would've used it without thinking twice.

Do the squirters really cool the pistons down that much? I know they do cool a little bit, but is it enough to help keep knock down?

 

[timloomis]

I dont really know. I imagine mine helps with the squirters and the 90 oil cooler. I can't see why putting the heat in the oil and having that transfer to the coolant would even make the squirters worth while. I would say mitsubishi knew what they were doing when they engineered it, but we all know that's not the truth,.

 

[JayRolla]

Just to add some info, my mechanics built a 1g dsm as a budget build. They had a stock Expo 2.4L shortblock with some miles and through it in. Dropped a GT30r, dsmlink, fuel mods and e85 into it. Ran an 11.9 on an ok quick tune up here in the rocky mountain thin air. Ended up losing compression I believe at the strip.

They dropped another Expo motor and its been running good for a while now but with the power they are making I dont see it lasting to much longer. Anyways if you dont go to crazy and tune the motor right it could work but you less space for error with the higher compression.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just to add some info, my mechanics built a 1g dsm as a budget build. They had a stock Expo 2.4L shortblock with some miles and through it in. Dropped a GT30r, dsmlink, fuel mods and e85 into it. Ran an 11.9 on an ok quick tune up here in the rocky mountain thin air. Ended up losing compression I believe at the strip.

They dropped another Expo motor and its been running good for a while now but with the power they are making I dont see it lasting to much longer. Anyways if you dont go to crazy and tune the motor right it could work but you less space for error with the higher compression.

Do 'expo motors' have oil squirters? What is the compression of 'expo motors'.

Do you have piston specs on 'expo motors'? None of this is flaming. . . Just trying to get this info in DSMTuners.com circulation.

 

[JayRolla]

I really dont know. I do know its the 2.4L that was out of the Mitsubishi Expo. He has used these cranks for strokers in the past. I dont want to post assumptions on the motor specs. I could ask him what he engine code is on that motor and from there we can find the specs.

Also I can ask him how many miles he has on this second motor since he swapped it. But with running e85 he doesnt really need to be safe. The stuff never detonates. Just make sure your EGT stay within reason and AFR is good.

 

[project1g]

To me and this is imo the squirters would just be another thing to break.

 

[babell2]

All of the debates on crankwalk and squirters that I have read have stated "1G oil squirters tend to break the nozzles off and end up in the oil pan","2G squirters rob oil pressure from the mains leading to crank walk", and, "If you use a forged piston you wont need squirters due to the extra heat disapation."

 

[project1g]

Why go forged, I'd have to bore my head out and all that other crap when I can just take some decent pistons from a turbo model so I get the same compression as the turbo models minus the money spendage?
I'll stick with that idea. Now I just need a new clutch/flywheel and some turbo-compressioned pistons wish me luck.