1g talon timing belt jumping teeth

[SVT2DSM]

1992 eagle talon complete rebuild with forged internals

New oil pump
New pulleys
Hks 272 cams
Factory cam gears
New Beck arnley tensioner
New timing belt
Balance shaft delete
(Jusst naming thing I guess could effect the timing belt)

Car keeps jumping timing by 2 teeth
I've taken the belt off and re did everything twice. I'm getting sick of it. Any ideals? Possibly a faulty tensioner?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Possibly replace all the timing parts with new ones, and make sure you timed it right, or have someone else do it if you keep having issues.

 

[outcastgsx]

What's up bro, when I have changed my t-belt I always change the tensioner. I only use oem parts. Double check everything, and when you are ready to install everything back I always put the crank pully on and start the car for a few second to make sure the timing and that all looks good. Hope that helps you..

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Get an oem tensioner.

 

[SVT2DSM]

I've done 4 dsm's timing belts before never had this problem

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

What kind of tensioners did you use?

 

[SVT2DSM]

A beck arnely tensioner brand new

A beck arnely/dayco/melling/ hell one time my friend got some cheap no name brand one and I put it on and it works just fine

I obviously insisted he shouldn't use it but he ignored the thought

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Hmm that's weird.. Did you inspect the teeth on all the gears?

 

[SVT2DSM]

Yeah everything looks fine... I'm stumped

 

[Steve93Talon]

Pull the belt and cams and remove the rockers, then put the cams back in and bolt the cam caps back down. Do the cams spin freely in the head? Also, with the timing belt off, does the oil pump gear spin freely?

 

[SVT2DSM]

The oil pump spins fine....but before I take the cams off and the rocker arms off to see if the cams spin. What could cause the cams to to lock up? And the car randomly jumps timing the first time it took 2 days to jump then the next time took 4 hours.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Maybe your not putting enough tension on the belt with the tensioner pully before releasing the tensioner?

I just bought one of these recently:

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[SVT2DSM]

That's what I was thinking....what's that in the picture? And we all know there are 2 pulleys one is stationary and there's one that swings on the tentioner arm. The one on the arm has a bolt hole in it that's not centered. Correct? Is that pulley suppose to be clocked in a certain position?

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Yep it sure is. There two small holes in it that that^ tool fits into, you attach a ratchet to the back of the tensioner tool and you clock it to a certain torque before releasing the tensioner.

I used to just do it with a long flat head screw driver, but if you do it too tight it can cause the oil pump gear to grind into the front case. That's if you have balance shafts removed and a stubby shaft in there. Should be fine to do if you have balance shafts though.

 

[SVT2DSM]

So I need to get that pulley with the off center bolt hole to take up more slack in the belt? Is that what your saying?

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Yes exactly. Otherwise the tensioner will extend fully and the belt will still be loose. Tensioner should never be fully out because it needs to be able to take up slack in the belt as it stretches over time. There are specs for the maximum length the hydraulic tensioner piston is supposed to extend onto the tensioner arm when installed.

 

[SVT2DSM]

This is why I ####ing love this website. You guy are the cats pajamas. Thanx everyone

 

[SrKegler]

Specs call for the tensoner to be tightened to 2.5 inch lbs. On all my belt changes (using OEM belts) the farthest right tensioner hole ends up slightly past 12:00. The VFAQ picture show it at about 3:00. Easiest way to set the tension is to run your threaded rod in until the tensioner arm bottoms out. Put the belt in place, put your 14mm socket on the tensioner bolt and use an allen wrench to rotate the tensioner pulley around to about 12:00 and snug the bolt down. Start releasing the the threaded rod and count the turns. Correct tension is at least 3 1/2 turns but less than 4 turns. Once tension is released, use a feeler guage to check the gap. Should be between 3.8 and 4.2mm. If it isn't in spec, notice the position of the hole and move it left or right slightly. Keep adjusting until you get it right.

One thing I'd like to point out is that the grenade pin is only used when it's necessary to remove the hyd tensioner. There's been some posts that think the belt is adjusted correctly when you can install the grenade pin in the tensioner. If you can, the belt is too tight. Too tight pulls the oil pump sprocket in the 10:00 direction and wears out the oil pump shaft seal.

 

[VisegripMech]

I've done 4 dsm's timing belts....

So I need to get that pulley with the off center bolt hole to take up more slack in the belt? Is that what your saying?

How have you done in the past? You must be very lucky.

I WAS GONNA SAY:

"If the tension is set right you should be able to slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner. "

but then I read the ENTIRE last post...

One thing I'd like to point out is that the grenade pin is only used when it's necessary to remove the hyd tensioner. There's been some posts that think the belt is adjusted correctly when you can install the grenade pin in the tensioner. If you can, the belt is too tight. Too tight pulls the oil pump sprocket in the 10:00 direction and wears out the oil pump shaft seal.

Once tension is released, use a feeler guage to check the gap. Should be between 3.8 and 4.2mm.

I about drove myself crazy trying to use the feeler gauge AND the grenade pin. Harrumph!

 

[Petergeralis]

You want 4 mm of gap between tensioner body and tensioner pulley arm after the belt was installed and rotated 6 times. Then let it sit for 15 minutes to "settle". If you check it after that and your at 4 mm gap you set the belt correctly.

If feeler gauge is too hard the get in use a 4mm Allen key as ## gap checker