1g Stays Around 14.7 At WOT

[Cheezit033094]

Hey guys, so I've been having an issue with my AFR's. My car idles and cruises at 14.7. Well really it oscillates around 14.7. When I go WOT, at 3k it goes to 16-17 and back to 14.7 at 3500. It won't go any richer than that. It will quick jump to 13.4 but doesn't stay. I just got a datalogger so let me know what I should be keeping an eye on. Thanks everybody!

 

[Seamus]

Well I don't know what you've got going on with your car but I assume you don't have dsmlink or similar since you mentioned you just got a logger. first you need to set up your wideband so you can datalog it. If the car is mostly stock I wouldn't worry too much. It's got a knock sensor and it won't let itself run outside it limits. If its modified, you can do this other stuff but It isn't exactly the best way of handling it. If you have the boost turned up you might back it down a bit. If you can adjust your fuel pressure, I guess you could bump it a few pounds to get a little more capacity out of you injectors. But like I said, this isn't the bet way to do it. You should get dsmlink or somilar and start logging your wideband.

 

[Cheezit033094]

Ecmlink isn't in the budget atm. It was running 15lbs when I got it with a bad fuel pump and no logger/wideband. I immediately turned it down to wastegate pressure and installed my wideband. I have a gm maf and maft ready to be installed so that's how I plan on base tuning.

 

[Seamus]

Dude the gm maf and maft cost as much as dsmlink basically. The maft sucks for tuning and there is no reason to run a gm maf on one of these cars. A stock or 2g maf work fine unless you need to support a ton of power. A 2g maf and 550's are basically drop in upgrade that needs no tuning due to the different scaling on the 2g maf.

 

[Fullthrottle7]

I've seen plenty of MAFT setups below $100 how is that the same as a Link setup? Plenty of people ran 11s in 03-05 with a MAFT or SAFC people get too hung up on Link these days because its so prevalent. This guy says he doesn't have more money to spend so lets work with what he has its the newb forum not the "I wanna go pro street and get a standalone" forum.

OP I think you just need a little more reading with the MAFT it has plenty of compensation for those injectors and turbo. I fully agree that turning down the boost or upping fuel pressure if you insist on driving is smart until you fix this. Can you tell us if you are rreferencing the loggers output of estimated a/f or are you watching the wideband that I do see listed in your profile even though the first post made it sound like you dont have one. I see you actually wrote you bought it without one, so is one currently installed?

 

[codym]

If your profile list is up to date, and you still have the SAFC than just add correction in the high throttle until you get the GM MAF & Translator installed. If you get it set up correctly it should drive fine with the base dial set right. You want to make sure you get your base nailed before you try WOT, also be sure you don't start to spike lean when initially getting into boost(1-2psi), this would be the MID correction knob.

You shouldn't be seeing 15-16 AFRs during WOT. Ever. At any point.
During cruise it would be acceptable, but that is extremely lean for WOT.


I see your on methanol injection too, so be sure to tie in the Aux wire to control AFRs during injection.

 

[Cheezit033094]

Fullthrottle7, I haven't installed the maft. I do have the Aem uego installed and that is where I'm getting my numbers.

Codym, the methanol injection is in my wishlist. The Safc messed up stuff more than anything, causing it to go extremely lean at idle, really rich on throttle, and stalling on decel. I ended up having to remove it after verifying all the wiring and such.

I logged a nice idle today and here's my readings
Rpm - 875
Injd - .7%
Knock - 0
Tps - 4.6
Coolant temp - 95°c
Air temp - 44.5°c
Injp - 2ms
Battery - 13.9v
Isc - 10
Ftrl - 118%
Ftrm - 118%
Ftrh - 118%
Fto2 - 111%
Mafs - 43hz
Acle - 0%
Flg0 - -sa-i
Flg2 - -f-
Map - 10.0 afr

I am not sure what a lot if this means

A log from earlier this morning got me a few more items. The idle was a little high.

Idle - 1000
Injd - 1.5%
Knock - 0
Tps - 4.2%
Wbo2 - 20.5 afr
Cool - 85.6°c
Airt - 23.4°c
Injp - 2ms
Batt - 14.2v
Isc - 20
Ftrl - 108%
Ftrm - 118%
Ftrh - 118%
Fto2 - 100%
Mafs - 43hz
Acle - 0%
Flg0 - -sa--
Flg2 - -fb
Map - 10 afr
Oilp - -1.39atm
Egt - 160
Oilt - 130
Fuel - 0.40 atm
Wbo2 - 128
Plen - 5
Pump 9.0v

I guess my cat isn't going into open loop as the Ftrm and Ftrh never deviate from 118%

Car not cat

 

[Seamus]

I've seen plenty of MAFT setups below $100 how is that the same as a Link setup? Plenty of people ran 11s in 03-05 with a MAFT or SAFC people get too hung up on Link these days because its so prevalent. This guy says he doesn't have more money to spend so lets work with what he has its the newb forum not the "I wanna go pro street and get a standalone" forum.
?

I was trying to work in his budget. That is why is suggested the 2g maf/550 combo. That is less than $100 and will do him a lot more good than a maft. I think we can all agree that a maft or safe are basically useless with stock injectors. They really aren't going to do anything that the factory ecu doesn't do automatically. A 2g maf and 550/a will give him more headroom and don't require any tuning or additional support. It's my opinion that using a gm maft was pointless even back in the day.

Also to chez it, I don't know much about you afc and I have never had one, but if its making you car run bad when its all zero'od out you probably just need to double check the wiring and make sure it's setup is configured to your maf type and stuff.
You also need to get your wideband wired to your egrt right away so you actually log your wideband. The gauge alone is almost useless. You are local so I hope you can get your car sorted and enjoy it instead o it being one of the hundreds of half done Junkers getting passed around here.

You said you did t know what a lot of this means so ill try and help u a bit.


Rpm - 875. Duh
Injd - .7%. Injector duty cycle
Knock - 0. Knock counts
Tps - 4.6. Throttle position
Coolant temp - 95°c. Coolant temp switch logger to read standard measurement if you want
Air temp - 44.5°c. Air temp at the maf
Injp - 2ms. Injector pulsewidth
Battery - 13.9v. Duhb
Ftrl - 118%. Looks like you know your fuel trim
Ftrm - 118%
Ftrh - 118%
Fto2 - 111%
Mafs - 43hz. Airflow
Map - 10.0 afr barometric at the maf

Btw you fuel trim will only update every 6-7 minutes if the car is warm enough.

 

[Cheezit033094]

I've already done the 2g maf and RC 550cc Injectors. I was fairly sure that was in my mods list. I checked the wiring multiple times and still had same issues. What's this about wiring wideband to egrt? I've got it wired to the stock o2 sensor pin in the ecu and set the wideband to p04.

And honestly, wrenching on my car is how I enjoy it . I don't know what I'll do if everything works properly.

What would be making my car stay in open loop? Why won't it learn?

I was trying to work in his budget. That is why is suggested the 2g maf/550 combo. That is less than $100 and will do him a lot more good than a maft. I think we can all agree that a maft or safe are basically useless with stock injectors. They really aren't going to do anything that the factory ecu doesn't do automatically. A 2g maf and 550/a will give him more headroom and don't require any tuning or additional support. It's my opinion that using a gm maft was pointless even back in the day.

Also to chez it, I don't know much about you afc and I have never had one, but if its making you car run bad when its all zero'od out you probably just need to double check the wiring and make sure it's setup is configured to your maf type and stuff.
You also need to get your wideband wired to your egrt right away so you actually log your wideband. The gauge alone is almost useless. You are local so I hope you can get your car sorted and enjoy it instead o it being one of the hundreds of half done Junkers getting passed around here.

You said you did t know what a lot of this means so ill try and help u a bit.


Rpm - 875. Duh
Injd - .7%. Injector duty cycle
Knock - 0. Knock counts
Tps - 4.6. Throttle position
Coolant temp - 95°c. Coolant temp switch logger to read standard measurement if you want
Air temp - 44.5°c. Air temp at the maf
Injp - 2ms. Injector pulsewidth
Battery - 13.9v. Duhb
Ftrl - 118%. Looks like you know your fuel trim
Ftrm - 118%
Ftrh - 118%
Fto2 - 111%
Mafs - 43hz. Airflow
Map - 10.0 afr barometric at the maf

Btw you fuel trim will only update every 6-7 minutes if the car is warm enough.

Looks like I knew a lot more of that than I thought. I ha e done multiple logs and still never get anything other than 118%.

I have yet to go WOT with her and the logger because I wanna be gentle to her .

 

[johneclipse]

Your wideband is keeping you in open loop. You removed your factory o2 sensor, and have no way to tell the ecu that the wideband needs to simulate narrowband. They send out two different signals.

 

[Seamus]

I've already done the 2g maf and RC 550cc Injectors. I was fairly sure that was in my mods list. I checked the wiring multiple times and still had same issues. What's this about wiring wideband to egrt? I've got it wired to the stock o2 sensor pin in the ecu and set the wideband to p04.

And honestly, wrenching on my car is how I enjoy it . I don't know what I'll do if everything works properly.

What would be making my car stay in open loop? Why won't it learn?



Looks like I knew a lot more of that than I thought. I ha e done multiple logs and still never get anything other than 118%.

I have yet to go WOT with her and the logger because I wanna be gentle to her .

You also have to manipulate the menus in the afc for your engine like what type of airflow meter and things like that. If the person who installed the afc didn't do this correctly the car won't run right becaise it doesn't understand the information it's getting from your maf.

It sounds like your wideband is wired to simulate narrownd. Make sure this is all done properly as this would cause your fuel trims not to update. It will think you have a dead o2 basically. I don't know if the aem has enough outputs to simulate and log simultaneously, but you need to enable logging of lambda so you can actually know what is happening with the car. Then use the lambda figures to make sure your logger is converting them to a/f ratios properly and you know what you are seeing is accurate. Sometimes the a/f on these loggers is wrong but the lambda does not lie as it is the raw value from the sensor. Most people use the egrt for this because it is an expendable 0-5v.

 

[Cheezit033094]

Ok. Ill get a stock o2 sensor and wire it all properly and have the wideband send the signal to the egr pin on the ecu.

 

[Seamus]

If you are doing it this way you need to weld in another bung for the widwband o2. Also you need to use the pin for egrt. Btw dsmlink will simulate narrowband for you saving all these hassles. Sell the afc, maft and gm maf and buy link. I'm not the biggest link fan in thee world. I just started using it a year ago or so and have used standalones in the past(I'm a big fan of biilding my own harness and having over wire and connection memorized) But it's cheap and readily available used. There is a used aem in the classifieds for $400 bucks also.


Ohh before you go uninstalling you wideband, what is your o2 value doing in the logs? Is it cycling like an 02 should?

 

[Cheezit033094]

Cycles between 89 and 101%