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1g sidemount efficency?

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PLYMOUTH TURBO

10+ Year Contributor
49
0
Dec 23, 2008
lake forest, California
Whats the stock 1g sidemount efficency as for boost levels until they heat soak,and what can I do to the stock sidemount to be more efficent?
 
Most people run up to 20 psi or even more with stock sidemount. The problem is that it's so small that it has no cooling capacity. Within 10 seconds of boost it's heat soaked. We usually remove a fog light if equipped with it so we can get more air through it while driving at highway speeds.
 
Well how much boost are you planning to push? +1 on removing the foglight, but if you are going to get serious with over 20 lbs I would switch to a front mount that will cool better like a Mishimoto.
 
Whats the stock 1g sidemount efficency as for boost levels until they heat soak?

Depends on how hot it is outside, and of course having a bigger turbo will keep intake temps lower. For example, a 14b turbo running 20psi is going to be working a lot harder therefore getting a lot hotter than a 20g running 20psi. A fmic, e-85, water/meth injection, or at least a bigger sidemount is almost a necessity for these cars if running 20psi or more.
 
It's hard to give and EXACT psi as to when the heat soak sets in. If you wanna run higher then 15 lbs, i'd get a fmic.
 
Is anyone using the factory black air scoop for their sidemount? That might help keep the IC cooler at highway speeds...But the FMIC would be your best bet...

If trying to keep stock location for IC, either get supra sidemount.Or if you have acess to tig welder, make a hybrid of 1g, and 2g sidemounts(1g core,2g in and out pipes, or go bigger). But you miz well just buy the supra sidemount, if you don't want to go through all that trouble...

Also removing some retarded plate behind headlight helps keep intake air temps down..Also in the maf theres also a restrictive peice that should be removed as well..
 
Also removing some retarded plate behind headlight helps keep intake air temps down.

I was actually thinking about cutting out the flat area above the stock IC to let the air filter pull in more cold air. Not sure if it would do anything stability-wise but since the "frame" there is so thin I doubt it would.

Also in the maf theres also a restrictive peice that should be removed as well..

That won't lower intake temps, it will actually lean the car out a little creating more heat in the combustion chamber.
 
Well that noise baffle piece lowers the air pressure being fed to the compressor, like any preturbo restriction. Which inturn causes you to run the turbo harder to make the same power. Higher compressor rpm means more heat.:)

I removed that plate behind the sidemount and had a few rocks thrown into the fins in short order :p . Doesn't happen to many, but it happend to me. . . I've never really noticed much of a difference with the various stock or close to stock cars (450s pushed to the limit with the stock 14b and stock piping and upgraded exhaust). The tire is rotating and causes the air to rotate at a high enough speed to draw the air through the charge cooler: venturi effect. The venting on the plate is set up to still take advantage of the negative pressure seen in the wheel well.
 
Ohh below the filter, cut it out? Click the tech index on the top left, thers an article about it..Also they did air intake temps before and after, it's a pretty sweet article..

I saw the maf one in there too, figured i'd pass it onto you if you havn't already read that one..
 
I removed that plate behind the sidemount and had a few rocks thrown into the fins in short order :p . . . I've never really noticed much of a difference with the various stock o rclose to stock cars (450s pushed to the limit with the stock 14b and stock piping). The tire is rotating and causes the air to rotate at a high enough speed to draw the air through the charge cooler: venturi effect. The venting on the plate is set up to still take advantage of the negative pressure seen in the wheel well.

Is that a new car or just new avitar?

Wait your talking about the plastic behind the IC? Not the sheet metal the IC bolts too right?

Matt added to his orig post, so heres a ?...That's what that peice does in the maf..If removed it make the compressor work harder? Thanks for clearing that up..
 
Is that a new car or just new avitar?
It's my '91 awd car I'm putting all my parts in from my FWD car, and running a twinscroll hx40 :) Almost done with the auto-to-5speed conversion and the shortblock is pretty much buttoned up.

Wait your talking about the plastic behind the IC? Not the sheet metal the IC bolts too right?
Yes. I'm talking about the plastic behind the IC. The venting on it goes along with allowing the venturi effect to still be effective. Now whether or not the IC sees better negative pressure after it with the plastic removed? I don't know. I just noticed no difference in the boost and tune I could run with it removed.

Matt added to his orig post, so heres a ?...That's what that peice does in the maf..If removed it make the compressor work harder? Thanks for clearing that up, but why is it still in a tech article?
If the noise baffle in the intake pipe is removed, it helps the compressor work less to see the same flow. Since that piece is a restriction, the pressure after it in the intake pipe and before the compressor is lower with it ON. A lower pressure preturbo means a lower flowing compressor. It's still in a tech article because its a free, easy, and effective mod to do. I noticed a difference once I started pushing my old 14b when removing it. The compressor can run more at a lower rpm (better efficiency) and thus the turbine needs less energy from the exhaust to do the work, so more can be wastegated deeper into the rpm range (up to compressor choke). This basically helps the turbine flow better, more gases are bypassed around the turbine.

Never really noticed a change in a/f ratio. Theres still a maf on there. So the fuel is still being supplied according to how much air is meterd. If more air is metered, %IDC goes up.

To answer the OPs question, Only place I've seen anything about the 1g IC efficiency is what Kyle Tarry said on the dsmtuning sheet (.xls file). He said that it has 65% efficiency and when heatsoaked 55% efficiency. I dont know from where he got that information.
 
I wonder if there really is a way for someone to get a solid number for the efficiancy of the 1g sidemount, or any S/M for that matter..Do you have that file from the dsmtuning sheet? Is there a formula to actually getting the number correct?
 
Wait your talking about the plastic behind the IC? Not the sheet metal the IC bolts too right?

I was actually talking about cutting out the sheet metal so that the air filter can pull colder air from outside of the engine bay.

Never really noticed a change in a/f ratio. Theres still a maf on there. So the fuel is still being supplied according to how much air is meterd. If more air is metered, %IDC goes up.

I think that Bud was talking about the honeycomb, I didn't even think about the silencer though :thumb:
 
FWIW if you are concerned about your intercooler's efficiency I would go and get a GM IAT sensor and check to see what your intake temps are like.

My Supra sidemount puts my intake temp at about 93 degrees F at idle on an 83 degree day and 89-91 degrees on a hard pull with a 16g at 22psi. I was very surprised as I expected much a much higher manifold temperature. This is with the IAT in the tb elbow. I would offer an airflow estimation to go with this but honestly since I run a bastardized SD tune I wouldn't believe the airflow numbers anyway. I am however running ~92% IDC on 560cc evo injectors at ~11.2:1 AFR which should put that in the 34-36 lbs/min range (IIRC). Before logging MATs I was sure it was time to upgrade my intercooler, now I don't think it is necessary.
 
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