1g Misfire

[Flagstaff Fury]

I have a 92 Talon 4G63 AWD. I was driving it one night and parked it in its normal spot. Next morning I was going to start her up to get her warmed up. When she started, she sputtered, choked, and just sounded plain horrible. I pulled the plugs and wires and tried to clean them with brake cleaner. I run NGK 7ES copper plugs and Magnecor wires. I pulled it over to the shop I work at and took a compression test. Here's was it said; 4=146 3=142 2=147 1=0. I then checked my timing belt to notice my belt was loose and I was a tooth off. But here's the thing I JUST REPLACED THE BELT, WATERPUMP, AND TENSIONER!!! It was all fine until I did that belt. But I'm confused if i jumped a tooth, wouldn't that wipe out the rest of my valves? Only cylinder 1 is out. I need help. I'm going to rip apart the timing belt and see if my new tensioner was a defect. I know i have to pull that head too. But could someone give me some info on why it would only kill cylinder 1 and not the rest? And maybe a plan on how to fix it. I work at an auto shop so I luckily have just about all the tools one could need to undertake this project. HELP ME PLEASE!!! Thanks!

 

[mach4g63t]

On my old 2g, only 6 of 16 valves were bent when timing jumped before I bought it. Maybe it's just happens to be when it jumped timing and only those particular valves got smashed as they were down during a compression/exhaust stroke. Crappy either way, good luck with that. That's the whole reason I just swapped my head on my 1g (bad valves).

 

[turbodsm_125]

sounds like a broke/ skipped timing belt to me. when the belt jumps a tooth it is possible for to just bend the valves on 1 cylinder or up to all of them. also the piston rings could have gone out. not probalbe but possible. check to make sure the tensioner is fully on the arm, also make sure that the inside of the pulley was tightened to spec not just the bolt, this will cause it to jump a tooth

 

[GST racer]

And if you had a shop do the work, tell them about the problem and have them pay the bill.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

I have this stupid problem too. Its really annoying because I dont get any trouble codes with the MMCD logger program. I had something happen once and it gave the ignition coils as the problem. They've been replaced, in 2004 when I did my motor swap, the transistor thing, plugs, and wires. I even cleaned the connectors with QD cleaner. The problem went away for a week or so but returned. Every time it happens I notice my A/F ratio gauge (I know, not a good tuning tool) flickers around in the red range more towards the bottom. My logger shows all kinds of erroneous readings like negative coolant temps and hundreds of knock counts. I havent tried cleaning the CAS connectors out yet but thats going to be next. I check my DTC every day when I get ready to go somewhere because my CEL bulb is blown out. Would this be a fuel pump, MPI relay, CAS, or an ECU problem? I did make the mistake of buying it from Foreign Auto Computer. I hear they're garbage. I havent cracked open the case yet just because I NEED my car running. Let me know what you think. I'll check back here tomorrow or sometime this weekend.

I just changed the timing belt and re-timed the motor. I know this cannot possibly be the problem It misses during part-throttle driving most of the time. I only had it miss once under boost. Its not an injector because when I do the test, its a 'softer' miss than what I normally experience. Let me know if i'm missing something or if I just talk too much.

 

[GMANS89GT]

I have this stupid problem too. Its really annoying because I dont get any trouble codes with the MMCD logger program. I had something happen once and it gave the ignition coils as the problem. They've been replaced, in 2004 when I did my motor swap, the transistor thing, plugs, and wires. I even cleaned the connectors with QD cleaner. The problem went away for a week or so but returned. Every time it happens I notice my A/F ratio gauge (I know, not a good tuning tool) flickers around in the red range more towards the bottom. My logger shows all kinds of erroneous readings like negative coolant temps and hundreds of knock counts. I havent tried cleaning the CAS connectors out yet but thats going to be next. I check my DTC every day when I get ready to go somewhere because my CEL bulb is blown out. Would this be a fuel pump, MPI relay, CAS, or an ECU problem? I did make the mistake of buying it from Foreign Auto Computer. I hear they're garbage. I havent cracked open the case yet just because I NEED my car running. Let me know what you think. I'll check back here tomorrow or sometime this weekend.

I just changed the timing belt and re-timed the motor. I know this cannot possibly be the problem It misses during part-throttle driving most of the time. I only had it miss once under boost. Its not an injector because when I do the test, its a 'softer' miss than what I normally experience. Let me know if i'm missing something or if I just talk too much.

check all ground terminals , that will cause irratic behavior , if an engine has electric sensors it has to have a closed loop !(good ground source)

 

[GMANS89GT]

I have a 92 Talon 4G63 AWD. I was driving it one night and parked it in its normal spot. Next morning I was going to start her up to get her warmed up. When she started, she sputtered, choked, and just sounded plain horrible. I pulled the plugs and wires and tried to clean them with brake cleaner. I run NGK 7ES copper plugs and Magnecor wires. I pulled it over to the shop I work at and took a compression test. Here's was it said; 4=146 3=142 2=147 1=0. I then checked my timing belt to notice my belt was loose and I was a tooth off. But here's the thing I JUST REPLACED THE BELT, WATERPUMP, AND TENSIONER!!! It was all fine until I did that belt. But I'm confused if i jumped a tooth, wouldn't that wipe out the rest of my valves? Only cylinder 1 is out. I need help. I'm going to rip apart the timing belt and see if my new tensioner was a defect. I know i have to pull that head too. But could someone give me some info on why it would only kill cylinder 1 and not the rest? And maybe a plan on how to fix it. I work at an auto shop so I luckily have just about all the tools one could need to undertake this project. HELP ME PLEASE!!! Thanks!

how long did the engine run before it died or you shut it off ?

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

check all ground terminals , that will cause irratic behavior , if an engine has electric sensors it has to have a closed loop !(good ground source)

It didnt do it today. I have very good grounds also. I dont know what it is. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesnt. WTF