1G CAS timing on 2G

[Benshooter]

I have a blacktop 1G CAS on my 2G (6 bolt bottom end) and when I rotate it to advance the timing I can't rotate it far enough to get enough advance. I know your supposed to use a logger etc but if any of my gears are off a tooth it could have a big effect on this right? I'm pulling off the timing covers right now to check.

Is there a way I could adjust it without a logger? I know the 1Gs have the plug that you ground out, is there something simiar I can ground or disconnect while adjusting? Possibly the blue engine speed detection connector?

Ok so I pulled the timing cover an with the timing marks on the cam gears lined up dead on with each other and the head, and the crank sprocket is lined up dead on as well. With everything lined up, my crankshaft pulley timing mark shows being very slightly to the right of the "T" on the timing indicator marks on the timing cover.

So is there a way I can get a little more timing out of the CAS by cheating and rotating a cam gear off a tooth or something along those lines?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

How far are you trying to advance the timing?

 

[Benshooter]

How far are you trying to advance the timing?

Just until the motor explodes

I've been advancing it a small tick at a time then taking it out for a drive and every time I advance a tiny bit the car runs noticably better, but now I'm maxed out so I need to figure out how I can squeeze a little bit of advance out of it one way or another.

I do have a knock sensor!

 

[snowborder714]

The '95's have a tan plug that's near the fuel pump test and engine speed test connectors that is for grounding timing.

And I wouldn't move any cam gears unless you want to have valves hitting pistons.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Every car has a knock sensor but do you have any way to monitor the knock. Put the CAS back to stock and leave it alone before you open up a whole world of problems when it starts having real big problems. There are better and safer ways to make power besides advancing the timing. Sure it's great now but come summertime that motor might not last a month.

 

[Benshooter]

The '95's have a tan plug that's near the fuel pump test and engine speed test connectors that is for grounding timing.

And I wouldn't move any cam gears unless you want to have valves hitting pistons.

THANKS! I know right where it is!

Yeah I don't want to mess with the cams unless I have to.

Every car has a knock sensor but do you have any way to monitor the knock. Put the CAS back to stock and leave it alone before you open up a whole world of problems when it starts having real big problems. There are better and safer ways to make power besides advancing the timing. Sure it's great now but come summertime that motor might not last a month.

I'm not adjusting/advancing it for performance gains, just driveabillity. But now that I know where the connector is to ground I can at least see where the timing is at. Obviously my big problem is my garbage compression numbers as you saw from my other post.

 

[SBR Joe]

My god dont let anyone from galantvr4.org see these replies .


Best bet is to just set at 5* base idle and go from there. You can advance to the moon and make more power...just keep a sharp eye out for any knock, and make sure youre not getting this balsy on pump gas....its far less forgiving when it comes to knock from very advanced timing.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm not adjusting/advancing it for performance gains, just driveabillity.

I have never heard of this before, unless your car performing better is translated into driving better. Or you just came up with that to try and ward off the flaming for doing this, especially without a logger.

I'd follow what Adam and Joe suggested and just set it at 5* and done. Most people would rather play it safe than sorry, unless you're looking to blow your engine up for a reason to replace it.

 

[Benshooter]

I have never heard of this before, unless your car performing better is translated into driving better. Or you just came up with that to try and ward off the flaming for doing this, especially without a logger.

I'd follow what Adam and Joe suggested and just set it at 5* and done. Most people would rather play it safe than sorry, unless you're looking to blow your engine up for a reason to replace it.

Well if it's missing/sputtering badly in the lower rpm and you advance the timing a little and it improves then I'm going to guess the timing was retarded. Basically it drove like sht before, now it drives a lot better, but I still think there's a little more to be had before I even step over 5*. As soon as I get home I'll ground that connector, hook up a timing light, and report back.

 

[SBR Joe]

Well if it's missing/sputtering badly in the lower rpm and you advance the timing a little and it improves then I'm going to guess the timing was retarded. Basically it drove like sht before, now it drives a lot better, but I still think there's a little more to be had before I even step over 5*. As soon as I get home I'll ground that connector, hook up a timing light, and report back.

Are you sure the engine timing is dead on?

Also, ive had a bad CAS do this before...so that may be to blame.

 

[Benshooter]

Ok so I centered the CAS, grounded the plug, started the car and I was at about 15* BTDC.

As I adjusted the CAS, it was MUCH more responsive to my inputs this time. Now I'm dead on 5* BTDC and the car is idleing much better. I don't get my 300 rpm surges anymore. I had heard the 95's were the last year that had a timing/ignition adjustment plug, I just didn't know where to look. Thanks snowboarder! A tip of the hat to the rest of the wisemen as well. Thanks guys!

 

[EclipticalGS]

Well, i doubt it's exactly on, I bet when looking from the timing light, you can see the timing mark of the crank pulley going very quickly from 7* to 3* very quickly, which is fine.

I did 3 of my friends base timing with the 1G CAS, none ever seemed to be dead on where the timing mark just sat on 5* btdc. Its ###### because our 2G ecu's are being tricked. I had to rig up that barometric wire from ecu to a 5k volume knob, turn the barometric signal down to avoid that Random missfire.

 

[Benshooter]

Well, i doubt it's exactly on, I bet when looking from the timing light, you can see the timing mark of the crank pulley going very quickly from 7* to 3* very quickly, which is fine.

I did 3 of my friends base timing with the 1G CAS, none ever seemed to be dead on where the timing mark just sat on 5* btdc. Its ###### because our 2G ecu's are being tricked. I had to rig up that barometric wire from ecu to a 5k volume knob, turn the barometric signal down to avoid that Random missfire.

Well, i doubt it's exactly on, I bet when looking from the timing light, you can see the timing mark of the crank pulley going very quickly from 7* to 3* very quickly, which is fine.

I did 3 of my friends base timing with the 1G CAS, none ever seemed to be dead on where the timing mark just sat on 5* btdc. Its ###### because our 2G ecu's are being tricked. I had to rig up that barometric wire from ecu to a 5k volume knob, turn the barometric signal down to avoid that Random missfire.

It actually hardly jumped around. About every 30 seconds or so it would dip to about 10* for one flash of the timing light but that was it. I had a nice crisp white line painted across my timing notches so I could get a good read on it. Grounding that plug reeeaaally smooths out the engine and helps in the process. I had lowered my idle down to 700-800... I don't think I did anything wrong...

Speaking of barometric pressure, is there anything that should be done to these cars to help them out at higher altitudes? My house is 4300' and if I go for a drive in the canyon/mountains I'd be getting close to 6k'. Just curious...