Alright, to start things off, this is not going to teach you, step by step, how to remove shocks and springs. There are already plenty of threads on that subject, and even a video:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/459235-installing-shocks-springs-struts.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/58353-removing-installing-shocks-struts-1g.html
(Next time try searching)
Anyway, this is for tips and tricks on how to remove the shocks if you are presented with problems, more specifically, the rear.
If the shocks on the car are original, make sure to set aside 1-2 days. Trust me when I tell you, it could get really ugly.
#1 Spray PB Blaster Liberally and Often. Don't wipe it off, it helps to lubricate while you are trying to break the bolts loose.
#2 Heat is the number 1 way to loosen stuck/rusted bolts. If you have a torch, use it. But be careful not to burn anything, obviously.
#3 It helps if you remove the caliper from it's bracket and string it up on a coat hanger or spare jack stand.
#4 When trying to align the shocks, beat on them with a rubber mallet ONLY. Anything else WILL damage the shock body. It is usually sufficient to twist and wriggle them.
#5 There are usually places locally where you can get Adjustable Camber Bolts in a pinch if you break one. You can PM for where in a bind, but I don't want to take away from vendors by putting it out in a thread.
For the front, they should be pretty straight forward. Work on one at a time. If a bolt gives you any trouble, bang it out with a sledge hammer or a dead blow hammer. If you have it jacked up correctly with the suspension unloaded, they should come out fairly easily though. If you have camber bolts in the top, they may not want to come out very easily (ask me how I know), so see previous tip with hammer. It also helps if you turn on the head bolt side (loosening) while hitting it.
When installing the front, it helps if you slightly tighten the top 3 bolts to hold the shock in place before attempting to line up the bottom bolts. Install the very bottom bolt first., then the top.
Now onto the rears. These will most likely be the ones that give you problems.
First step is to remove the bottom bolt. Again, PB Blaster is your friend here. If you break the bolt off in the hole, you now have a long road ahead of you. Try an easy out, but be prepared to re-tap the hole when you get done removing the shock. Most likely the bolt will come off, but the shock will not move.
1. The easiest method I have found for removing it is with a 2 ton 3 Jaw Gear Puller. It is the smaller of the two you can rent at almost any auto parts store. The middle bolt will fit through the bottom hole of the shock with the bolt removed. Tighten the 3 jaws so that they are positioned behind the shock and begin screwing the bolt into the hole. Be careful not to strip the threads on the inside of the trailing arm.
2. Another method is to use a very large pry bar or, if you don't need the shocks being removed, attack it a hammer and try to pull it off the shaft.
3. Last resort, if the shock refuses to come off the shaft, use a cut off wheel or angle grinder to cut the shock at the base through the O part.
Most likely, the shock will come off without the lower bushing. This is were it gets tricky. There are a few different ways to tackle this problem. First things first, grind or remove any rubber on the metal bushing.
1. Use a torch to heat up the metal bushing until it gets red hot. Grab a pair of large vice grips and tighten them down and attempt to twist and pull the bushings off. I shouldn't have to tell you this, but make sure to wear gloves.
2. This is the method I personally tried as I don't own a torch. It's sad, I know. Anyway, I do have a cutoff tool (22,000rpm and 120 volts). I would assume an angle grinder would also work, but for the angle the metal bushing is at, a cut off tool is better suited. For those wondering if a dremel will work, don't hold your breath. Anyway, I started cutting at the end of the shaft closest to the threads and away from the trailing arm. Make a cut the length of the bushing until the middle of the bushing. Be very careful not to cut into the threads and only cut through the bushing. It shouldn't take more than a minute or two if you have the right tool. After the bushing is split, take a chisel and a large hammer (dead or sledge) and beat on the bushing to try and split the halves further apart. Eventually it should be apparent that it has split enough that it can be moved. Take a large set of vice grips and clamp it down towards the back of the bushing, closer to the trailing arm. Wriggle with them or hit them with a hammer up and down, while at the same time trying to push it forward and off the shaft. Eventually it should break free.
Before trying to install the new shocks, use a file to grind off all the rust and crap on the lower shock mounting trailing arm. Spray it liberally with PB Blaster and then lather it in anti-seize.
When installing the new shocks, do the same as with the fronts, installing the top shock mount bolts first, but don't tighten them very much and then slide the bottom onto the shaft. If you cleaned it and lubed it properly, it should easily slide on.
When facing a worst case scenario you might have to swap the entire tailing arm if the bolt gets broken off too far in. Thankfully that didn't happen to me.
If anyone else has any tips to add, please feel free to write them below. I may or may not update with photos later.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/459235-installing-shocks-springs-struts.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/58353-removing-installing-shocks-struts-1g.html
(Next time try searching)
Anyway, this is for tips and tricks on how to remove the shocks if you are presented with problems, more specifically, the rear.
If the shocks on the car are original, make sure to set aside 1-2 days. Trust me when I tell you, it could get really ugly.
#1 Spray PB Blaster Liberally and Often. Don't wipe it off, it helps to lubricate while you are trying to break the bolts loose.
#2 Heat is the number 1 way to loosen stuck/rusted bolts. If you have a torch, use it. But be careful not to burn anything, obviously.
#3 It helps if you remove the caliper from it's bracket and string it up on a coat hanger or spare jack stand.
#4 When trying to align the shocks, beat on them with a rubber mallet ONLY. Anything else WILL damage the shock body. It is usually sufficient to twist and wriggle them.
#5 There are usually places locally where you can get Adjustable Camber Bolts in a pinch if you break one. You can PM for where in a bind, but I don't want to take away from vendors by putting it out in a thread.
For the front, they should be pretty straight forward. Work on one at a time. If a bolt gives you any trouble, bang it out with a sledge hammer or a dead blow hammer. If you have it jacked up correctly with the suspension unloaded, they should come out fairly easily though. If you have camber bolts in the top, they may not want to come out very easily (ask me how I know), so see previous tip with hammer. It also helps if you turn on the head bolt side (loosening) while hitting it.
When installing the front, it helps if you slightly tighten the top 3 bolts to hold the shock in place before attempting to line up the bottom bolts. Install the very bottom bolt first., then the top.
Now onto the rears. These will most likely be the ones that give you problems.
First step is to remove the bottom bolt. Again, PB Blaster is your friend here. If you break the bolt off in the hole, you now have a long road ahead of you. Try an easy out, but be prepared to re-tap the hole when you get done removing the shock. Most likely the bolt will come off, but the shock will not move.
1. The easiest method I have found for removing it is with a 2 ton 3 Jaw Gear Puller. It is the smaller of the two you can rent at almost any auto parts store. The middle bolt will fit through the bottom hole of the shock with the bolt removed. Tighten the 3 jaws so that they are positioned behind the shock and begin screwing the bolt into the hole. Be careful not to strip the threads on the inside of the trailing arm.
2. Another method is to use a very large pry bar or, if you don't need the shocks being removed, attack it a hammer and try to pull it off the shaft.
3. Last resort, if the shock refuses to come off the shaft, use a cut off wheel or angle grinder to cut the shock at the base through the O part.
Most likely, the shock will come off without the lower bushing. This is were it gets tricky. There are a few different ways to tackle this problem. First things first, grind or remove any rubber on the metal bushing.
1. Use a torch to heat up the metal bushing until it gets red hot. Grab a pair of large vice grips and tighten them down and attempt to twist and pull the bushings off. I shouldn't have to tell you this, but make sure to wear gloves.
2. This is the method I personally tried as I don't own a torch. It's sad, I know. Anyway, I do have a cutoff tool (22,000rpm and 120 volts). I would assume an angle grinder would also work, but for the angle the metal bushing is at, a cut off tool is better suited. For those wondering if a dremel will work, don't hold your breath. Anyway, I started cutting at the end of the shaft closest to the threads and away from the trailing arm. Make a cut the length of the bushing until the middle of the bushing. Be very careful not to cut into the threads and only cut through the bushing. It shouldn't take more than a minute or two if you have the right tool. After the bushing is split, take a chisel and a large hammer (dead or sledge) and beat on the bushing to try and split the halves further apart. Eventually it should be apparent that it has split enough that it can be moved. Take a large set of vice grips and clamp it down towards the back of the bushing, closer to the trailing arm. Wriggle with them or hit them with a hammer up and down, while at the same time trying to push it forward and off the shaft. Eventually it should break free.
Before trying to install the new shocks, use a file to grind off all the rust and crap on the lower shock mounting trailing arm. Spray it liberally with PB Blaster and then lather it in anti-seize.
When installing the new shocks, do the same as with the fronts, installing the top shock mount bolts first, but don't tighten them very much and then slide the bottom onto the shaft. If you cleaned it and lubed it properly, it should easily slide on.
When facing a worst case scenario you might have to swap the entire tailing arm if the bolt gets broken off too far in. Thankfully that didn't happen to me.
If anyone else has any tips to add, please feel free to write them below. I may or may not update with photos later.
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