1G 4g63t vs 4g63 nt

[phillabaum03]

I did a 6 bolt swap into my 96 gst. The 6 bolt took a shit on me so now im looking for another 6bolt. What are the differences in the NT and Turbo blocks. Could i use the NT one?

 

[GVR4592]

No oil squirters in the N/T block, but the oil passage can be drilled and tapped at a machine shop so you can install the squirters.

 

[phillabaum03]

Do i need the sqirters? And is that the only difference?

 

[phillabaum03]

Also is the compression, rods, pistons all the same?

 

[overboostedawd]

pistions are not the same but the rods are so no the compresion is difrent

 

[phillabaum03]

so it would be like running a NT motor so i would have to run lower boost?

 

[Addicted2DSM]

I'd say compression would be higher. rods MIGHT be the same, Pistons would need to be changed.

 

[phillabaum03]

So how bad would it hurt me to not have the oil squirters?

 

[overboostedawd]

Converting a non-turbo (NT) block for use as a turbo motor is pretty
easy for the 1G cars. I'm doing this with an early big-rod 6-bolt motor,
but it will work equally well on the later small-rod 7-bolt motors. As
we all know, this doesn't work for the 2G cars since the NT uses a
Chrysler motor and the turbos use a Mitsu.

Anyway, all you need to do is the following:

a) Bore & tap holes for the turbo oil jets. The NTs already have the jet
locating pin machined out. The provided pads need machined flat so that
the jet gasket will seal. Bore and tap the oil jet holes until the side
of your hole has *completely* intersected the main oil galley feed. This
should be about 21mm deep.

b) Change pistons if you don't want 9:1 compression. Your options are
stock 7.8:1s which are a direct bolt in, or you can go with 8.5:1 95
turbo pistons. The big rods require machining to fit while the small-rod
motors will be a direct bolt in.

c) Swap in a turbo oil pan for the turbo oil return line.

That's it! Install oil jets and the pistons of your choice, put it all
back together and you have a turbo block.

Couple of other Q's you may have:

Q: Hey, where does the knock sensor go? There is no boss in the stock
location.
A: Use the boss at the top of cyl #3. Datalogging has shown that there
is no appreciable difference in knock readings between the two bosses.

Q: Won't the NT crank and rods need upgraded to take the abuse?
A: Nope. The NT and T use the same rods and crank. The factory part#s
are the same.

Q: Any other block differences?
A: Nope. The accessories are different, but the short block is the same
NT or T except for what I've noted.

 

[2fast4]

2g turbo motor does not have squirter, either. Not sure 'bout the con rod but why would you want to run high comp na setup? I'd say "while you're at it", 2g pistons or somepin'. Do it right the first time even though it takes more $$$. It'll save you $$$ in the long run and more factor.

 

[phillabaum03]

Im gonna put my 2g pistons in it. But i dont have money to ahve the squirters tapped and put in. Does anyone run a 1g nt block with no oil squirters with a turbo

 

[overboostedawd]

here read this thread ive just read a ton of threads on this for you + im wondering to about it but cheack it out

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162862&highlight=oil+squirts

 

[2fast4]

Converting a non-turbo (NT) block for use as a turbo motor is pretty
easy for the 1G cars. I'm doing this with an early big-rod 6-bolt motor,
but it will work equally well on the later small-rod 7-bolt motors. As
we all know, this doesn't work for the 2G cars since the NT uses a
Chrysler motor and the turbos use a Mitsu.

Anyway, all you need to do is the following:

a) Bore & tap holes for the turbo oil jets. The NTs already have the jet
locating pin machined out. The provided pads need machined flat so that
the jet gasket will seal. Bore and tap the oil jet holes until the side
of your hole has *completely* intersected the main oil galley feed. This
should be about 21mm deep.

b) Change pistons if you don't want 9:1 compression. Your options are
stock 7.8:1s which are a direct bolt in, or you can go with 8.5:1 95
turbo pistons. The big rods require machining to fit while the small-rod
motors will be a direct bolt in.

c) Swap in a turbo oil pan for the turbo oil return line.

That's it! Install oil jets and the pistons of your choice, put it all
back together and you have a turbo block.

Couple of other Q's you may have:

Q: Hey, where does the knock sensor go? There is no boss in the stock
location.
A: Use the boss at the top of cyl #3. Datalogging has shown that there
is no appreciable difference in knock readings between the two bosses.

Q: Won't the NT crank and rods need upgraded to take the abuse?
A: Nope. The NT and T use the same rods and crank. The factory part#s
are the same.

Q: Any other block differences?
A: Nope. The accessories are different, but the short block is the same
NT or T except for what I've noted.

Can you write up so it can make to VFAQ or Tech Ariticle section? This info is very valuable. I assume same can be said 'bout the Hyundai early models. Great info

 

[phillabaum03]

here read this thread ive just read a ton of threads on this for you + im wondering to about it but cheack it out

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162862&highlight=oil+squirts

Woah. Everyone had a different opinion. Some people didnt have them some did. There was 2 people running Nt block with no oil squirters.

 

[overboostedawd]

theres more threads on the subject if you want to search that was just the best one ive found so fare

 

[GVR4592]

Also is the compression, rods, pistons all the same?

You should've specified in your first post that you were referring to the complete bottom end. You said block so I assumed that meant just the block.

The rods are the same, the pistons are not. Without the oil squirters your oil pressure will be very high, you would probably need to port the oil pressure relief valve. The squirters can be very helpful and it's reccomended that you have them with stock type pistons.

2g turbo motor does not have squirter, either. Not sure 'bout the con rod but why would you want to run high comp na setup? I'd say "while you're at it", 2g pistons or somepin'. Do it right the first time even though it takes more $$$. It'll save you $$$ in the long run and more factor.

That is not correct, 2g 4g63 engines have oil squirters as well. It's really difficult to understand what you are trying to say in the rest of your post.

 

[phillabaum03]

I think im going to go with the NT block,crank, with the 1g rods and put some 2g pistons. Also im going to run no oil sqirters. Would there be a good oil to run that would with the oil pressure and the oil squirters?

 

[GVR4592]

I think im going to go with the NT block,crank, with the 1g rods and put some 2g pistons. Also im going to run no oil sqirters. Would there be a good oil to run that would with the oil pressure and the oil squirters?

Read what I already posted about your oil pressure, thinner oil isn't going to help.

 

[nightspeed87]

some would say you dont need the oil squirters and that that oil could be directed somewhere else and it starves other parts down there for oil. Just change the pistons and strengthen the n/t bottom end and put it on there.

 

[oldman]

Converting a non-turbo (NT) block for use as a turbo motor is pretty
easy for the 1G cars. I'm doing this with an early big-rod 6-bolt motor,
but it will work equally well on the later small-rod 7-bolt motors. As
we all know, this doesn't work for the 2G cars since the NT uses a
Chrysler motor and the turbos use a Mitsu.

Anyway, all you need to do is the following:

a) Bore & tap holes for the turbo oil jets. The NTs already have the jet
locating pin machined out. The provided pads need machined flat so that
the jet gasket will seal. Bore and tap the oil jet holes until the side
of your hole has *completely* intersected the main oil galley feed. This
should be about 21mm deep.

b) Change pistons if you don't want 9:1 compression. Your options are
stock 7.8:1s which are a direct bolt in, or you can go with 8.5:1 95
turbo pistons. The big rods require machining to fit while the small-rod
motors will be a direct bolt in.

c) Swap in a turbo oil pan for the turbo oil return line.

That's it! Install oil jets and the pistons of your choice, put it all
back together and you have a turbo block.

Couple of other Q's you may have:

Q: Hey, where does the knock sensor go? There is no boss in the stock
location.
A: Use the boss at the top of cyl #3. Datalogging has shown that there
is no appreciable difference in knock readings between the two bosses.

Q: Won't the NT crank and rods need upgraded to take the abuse?
A: Nope. The NT and T use the same rods and crank. The factory part#s
are the same.

Q: Any other block differences?
A: Nope. The accessories are different, but the short block is the same
NT or T except for what I've noted.

Was this cut & paste? If so, please credit the source. If not, great post and you shuld turn it into a tech article.

 

[overboostedawd]

Was this cut & paste? If so, please credit the source. If not, great post and you shuld turn it into a tech article.

yes it was from a guy who also copy and pasted it so im not for shure of the real source or i would have posted that up along with it sorry i didnt know i had to make that clear i will next time

 

[oldman]

yes it was from a guy who also copy and pasted it so im not for shure of the real source or i would have posted that up along with it sorry i didnt know i had to make that clear i will next time

No problem, it was a helpful post either way. Next time put it in a quote like I did with your post.