1G 1990 Timing Belt side and seal replacement

[Rice Burner]

I'm replacing the timing belt, pulleys, water pump and cam seals. I've already replaced the cam seals and I'm waiting on a replacement water pipe to replace my rusted out pipe.

I ordered the crank shaft seal, balance shaft seal, oil pump seal and I think that's all for that side. Do those seals just pry out or is there any disassembly with replacing any of those seals. I'm hoping to get those in this weekend and get the timing side done. I'm trying to get my game plan ready. Any advice or suggestions would be welcomed.

The cam shaft seals were like hard plastic so I'd like to get them all replaced while I have the down time and timing apart and is in process.

Thanks in advance!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

They do pry out but you have to be careful not to score or damage the seal surface. You can get seal pullers and these come up from the side and pry it out. Just put a bit of lube on them as you put the new ones it to help

 

[Rice Burner]

ok sounds good. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have to take anything apart to get them out or needed any gaskets. So just oil them up and slide them in, no rtv necessary?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

ok sounds good. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have to take anything apart to get them out or needed any gaskets. So just oil them up and slide them in, no rtv necessary?

Well for the crank yes you need to remove the timing belt and pulleys.

No rtv it does not need any of that. Clean the surface to dry and debis free and you are all good with the new lubed up seal

 

[Rice Burner]

Got it, very much appreciated. Clutch side will be next weekend, I'm sure I'll be back with clutch questions

 

[pauleyman]

ok sounds good. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have to take anything apart to get them out or needed any gaskets. So just oil them up and slide them in, no rtv necessary?

You do have to take off the balance shaft pulley and the oil pump sprocket pulley as the seals are behind those. Do NOT use an impact gun to get these loose. I typically loosen them before I remove the belts. If it slips take the belt off and use a chunk of it to hold the sprocket. You're replacing belts anyway. Keep in mind where crank/pistons are when you're turning stuff. You can bend a valve if you just willy nilly turn crank wherever you want while cams are still. I like to line up all marks then remove belt. At that point you can move crank 90 degrees either direction ( I prefer CCW so I can just move it back when I'm ready). 90 degrees from TDC mark will put all 4 pistons in the middle of the bore. Nothing in the way then.

 

[Rice Burner]

Again good info, thanks fellas.