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Street Build 1990 Eagle Talon

Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Southbay Fuel Injectors
  1. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    This first post will be purely a table of Contents. If one of the build sections take more than one entry due to picture limitations, those entries will be highlighted in the table of contents and as close together as possible in the thread. Please use the "Rate Thread" button so that I will know how helpful my posts are and how I may improve them. Any thoughts or ideas on how to improve this build thread or the build itself is greatly appreciated.


    1.) Background information: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152884697-post3.html Post #3

    2.) Disassembly Part I http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152884814-post4.html Post #4

    3.) Disassembly Part II http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152884821-post5.html Post #5

    4.) Disassembly Part III http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152884837-post6.html Post #6

    5.) Tearing Down the Engine Bay http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152885711-post7.html Post #7

    6.) Engine Bay Painted http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152885739-post8.html Post #8

    7.) Transmission Rebuild Part I http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152894567-post14.html Post #14

    8.) Transmission Rebuild Part II http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152894601-post15.html Post #15

    9.) Transmission Rebuild Part III http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152894622-post16.html Post #16

    10.) Bottom End Assembly http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152895798-post17.html Post #17

    11.) Head Assembly http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152902830-post20.html Post #20

    12.) Long block assembly Part I http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152904014-post21.html Post #21

    13.) Long block assembly Part II http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152905169-post24.html Post #24

    14.) Holset HX35 Rebuild Part I http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152921093-post25.html Post #25

    15.) Holset HX35 Rebuild Part II http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152979294-post27.html Post #26

    16.) VRSpeed FMIC Mock Up/Install http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152981585-post27.html Post #27

    17.) Holset HX35 Mock-up and Oil Feed/Drain http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152984156-post28.html Post #28

    18.) Front End and Firewall Assembly http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152985147-post31.html Post #31

    19.) Replacing the Front Wheel Bearings http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153025579-post32.html Post #32

    20.) Engine Install http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153027928-post33.html Post #33

    21.) Master and Slave Rebuild with Transmission Install http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153029999-post42.html Post #42

    22.) Turbo Install, Wrapping up the Engine Bay, and a Surprise http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153031143-post43.html Post #43

    23.) First Startup with a Few Fixes http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153032919-post44.html Post #44

    24.) Wheels, Exhaust, Ducting/ Photo Shoot http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153033762-post45.html Post #45

    25.) Dodge Mod BOV [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153068146-post46.html Post #46

    26.) Fuel System Upgrades [VIDEOS] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153075487-post47.html Post #47

    27.) FIAV Blockoff [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153104752-post50.html Post #50

    28.) Calan Catch Can [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116038-post51.html Post #51

    29.) Jay Racing's Active Toe Eliminator [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116046-post52.html Post #52

    30.) Swag Joints and Poly Bushings [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116052-post53.html Post #53

    31.) Driveshaft Rebuild [Video] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116058-post54.html Post #54

    32.) Drag Passes After the Work [VIDEO] http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116060-post55.html Post #55

    33.) Rear Differential Inspection and Replacement Part 1 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116616-post56.html Post #56

    34.) Rear Differential Inspection and Replacement Part 2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116708-post57.html Post #57

    35.) Rear Differential Inspection and Replacement Part 3 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116721-post58.html Post #58

    36.) Rear Differential Inspection and Replacement Part 4 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153116726-post59.html Post #59

    37.) Installing a Four Bolt Rear - Part 1 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153117691-post60.html Post #60

    38.) Installing a Four Bolt Rear - Part 2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153117693-post61.html Post #61

    39.) How to replace a CV Boot http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153117711-post62.html Post #62

    40.) Projected Plugs VS. Non Projected Plugs http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153117969-post63.html #63

    41.) FIC High-Z 2150cc Injector Install - Part 1 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153118086-post64.html Post #64

    42.) FIC High-Z 2150cc Injector Install - Part 2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153118089-post65.html Post #65

    43.) Headliner, BOV, Spoiler bracket, and Cleaning http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153118139-post66.html Post #66

    44.)Bad Swag Joints http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153135692-post68.html Post #67

    45.) Clutch Cut Wire Install - 1990 DSM http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153135692-post68.html Post #68

    46.) Oil Cooler Relocation http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153156099-post72.html Post #72

    47.) Holset Oil Drain - The Right Way http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153156112-post73.html Post #73

    48.) Plugging the Thermostat Coolant Line http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153160903-post76.html Post #74

    49.) Drag Passes 5 OCT 2012 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153199148-post78.html Post #78

    50.) Diagnosing 60' Issues http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153212452-post83.html Post #83

    51.) The Rest of 12 October 2012 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153218443-post86.html Post #86

    52.) Installing Shocks, Springs and Struts http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153219742-post90.html Post #90

    53.) How to Read a Compressor Map http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153270787-post96.html Post #96

    54.) Diagnosing a Lean Condition http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153449369 Post #107

    55.) Diagnosing a Lean Condition II http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153464221 Post #109

    56.) Diagnosing a Lean Condition III http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153467267 Post #110

    57.) The Ultimate Boost Leak Tester http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153467693 Post #111

    58.) DIY Battery Bracket http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153481391 Post #113

    59.) Wiring and Logging a MAP Sensor Part 1 http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153482173 Post #116

    60.) Wiring and Logging a MAP Sensor Part 2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153482501 Post #117

    61.) Wiring and Logging a MAP sensor Part 3 http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153482895 Post #120

    62.) Drag Radials with Lightweight Wheels http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153483475 Post #122

    63.) Mustang VS Talon http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-5#post-153487637 Post #125

    64.) Talon VS Regal http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-6#post-153487924 Post #130

    65.) Finally Broke Something - Shakedown passes http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-6#post-153488433 Post #137

    66.) Fuel Injector Care http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-6#post-153488922 Post #138

    67.) Clutch Disc Carnage - 1G DSM Trans Removal http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-6#post-153492714 Post #139

    68.) Future Plans - 1G Engine removal http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-6#post-153494566 Post #144

    Degreeing the Camshafts Part 1 - The Tools http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-7#post-153496160 Post #154

    Degreeing the Camshafts Part 2 - DOHC http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-7#post-153498000 Post #162

    71.) Precision measuring tools http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-7#post-153501274 Post #166

    72.) Shortblock Tech - Endplay http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-7#post-153504228 Post #173

    73.) Engine build - Shortblock prep http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-eagle-talon-sleeper.427853/page-9#post-153649743 Post #205
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2017

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    mitsubishikid and new2awd like this.

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  2. Rsawd95dsm

    Rsawd95dsm Proven Member

    Joined Feb 21, 2008
    Zeeland, Michigan
    Ah what? LOL

    1K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
  3. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Let’s start by saying I started like anyone else with a purchase and a dream. It has taken four years and a ton of reading. I am going to start at the beginning and break it down, so you will see many newb mistakes (I will point them out and please let me know if I miss one), especially in the beginning. Ok so here is some background information.

    I purchased a 1990 Eagle Talon from an old man in Virginia in August of 2008. The car did not run (suppose to have a bad starter), had 4 flats, had a grinding 2nd gear (guy was honest about the car), and never seen the roads of Virginia. It was originally a Georgia car (was titled there) and was shipped here when he moved. It had been sitting for years in the same spot. I gave 800 for the car and towed it to a friend’s garage as I lived in an apartment at this time.

    Upon arrival, we changed the starter (taking the old man’s word) put a new battery in with some spark plugs and it turned over but no start. The fuel pump was shot so a Walbro 255 was the first upgrade this car ever got!!! Then no spark so no start? Traced this problem to the transistor and with a quick multi meter test, we found that it was bad. I replaced this part to only fail again and no start. I then read on this forum and found some symptoms of a bad ECU. I picked up one just to check and sure enough it purred like a kitten after all those years. OMG So to get it running I needed an ECU. :aha:

    Fast forward a few months. After reading a lot in the forums, I picked up an EPROM out of the classifieds so that I could run link. Shortly after getting the car running, it started missing and audibly knocking. I rigged a fuel gauge to find that I was losing fuel pressure as RPMs climbed. The tank ended up being rusted and clogging the fuel pump sock. I had the tank coated at a local radiator shop. I also ordered an Aeromotive AFPR to accommodate the Walbro 255. I then purchased V3 link from another member. I took a trip to Maryland to visit TOM at ECMtuning on a Saturday (great customer service). He fixed a small blemish, replaced the caps, installed the EVO 8 mod 1 maps, and took me for a ride in his white 2g. :)

    After installing link, I ordered a set of 950cc injectors from advanced fuel injection. I started playing with the boost at this point and trying to learn how to tune. I picked up a small 16g and ran that for a short time (2 months) before deploying.

    These are the oldest pics I have. As you can see, I did the AFPR and a few other things at this point but for the most part bone stock.

    469025[/ATTACH]"] 100_1970.jpg

    Yes the white vaccum line that is coming out of the dash goes to a boost gauge.:D At least I had one:p

    469027[/ATTACH]"] 100_1967.jpg

    Sides where in good shape and cleaned up nicely. The black around the window was peeling and still is.

    469029[/ATTACH]"] 100_1964.jpg

    The hood took the brunt of abuse over time. The discoloration is not horrible but definitely noticeable.

    469031[/ATTACH]"] 100_1962.jpg

    Fast forward one year. I did a lot of reading with my “time” and came back with a plan. I wanted to build the car for drag racing while maintaining street legality. I did not want to build the car and not enjoy it on the street. This was never going to be my daily, so I was able to make compromises of some creature comforts. Up until this point I had not taken many pics if any at all, but after using this forum and its pictures I decided to start documentation. I did so in the old format, so I will convert those over as I get time. I tried to keep a good blog, but I failed. Here is my second attempt and it may take some time as I add things that were left out of the old blog posts.


    Attached Files:

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  4. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Ok, now that you have a little background, let’s get on with it. At this point I wanted to get the motor and tranny out of the car. I wanted to fix the second gear issue and I wanted to check the general health of the motor. I was planning on running a Holset HX35, so I was going to pull the head, add some head studs, and a few other things. To do this, I pulled the motor.





    I started the tear down, which is always the easiest.
    Timing cover off and all the old timing exposed.


    My water pump was hungry. The bearing in the water pump went bad and ate into the block as well.


    Back of the water pump pulley.


    At this point all of the pulleys and accessories are removed. The valve cover is removed and the timing is taken loose. The cams are removed keeping the cam caps in order. The head bolts and head where removed. The head was the disassembled.







    Upon inspection of the valve guides, I found that a few where cracked. The next two pics are of two different cylinders, but show the cracked guides if you look close.



    While removing the cam caps, I was using the bolts. You pull them halfway out of the cap and then tap them with a rubber mallet back and forth to knock the cap loose. This one was stubborn (or maybe I was) and this is what happened. Easy fix with a new bolt.




    From the looks of this pic, I was stoked. Cross hatches where still there and it had 160,000 on the clock.


    Oil filter housing comes off.


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  5. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Front case comes off.


    Water pump comes off.


    The rest is taken off to make this a short block. I go to pull the pan and check the bottom end and this is what I find. It was not magnetic but was very hard. With this discovery I decided to break it all the way down.


    I had to take the engine off of the stand to remove the rear main seal.


    I pulled the rods to find that all the bearings looked good. All the journals
    looked great as well. Minor scuffing (nothing a fingernail catch), but for 160k they looked good. I was expecting one of these to be damaged from the stuff in the pan but they were not.






    The jagged scratches that are on the center of the lower rod bearing where made during removal.





    Cylinder walls had .002 thousandths tapper from top to bottom even though they looked good.


    Main bearings and journals had minimal wear as well.







    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  6. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Here are the main caps. The only bad bearing was the one on the rear (tranny side). Oddly enough it was only the lower (cap side bearing) that had this blemish.





    Main journals looked decent but are in need of a polish.






    All of the parts that came out of the power plant.


    This is the bar block with. If you look at where the water pump would be, you will see where the impeller was contacting the block due to a bearing failure.




    With these findings, the plans for the engine obviously changed. It will receive a full makeover. More updates to come. :thumb:


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  7. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    After pulling the motor, I started to order some parts. I also started doing some more reading since I discovered the blog section. I ran across this blog DSM Forums - Calan by Calan. This inspired me to do much more than I had ever thought about doing, and as you all know one thing led to another. Before I knew it, I had an empty bay, some degreaser and spray paint.

    I started by removing the fenders, corner lights, pop ups, bumper, shocks and springs, sub frame, cross member etc.


    After all of that was removed I was left with this.







    It looks like a lot of stuff, so I picked up a wrench and started taking out bolts. Of course pictures where taken and each bolt got a little baggie with a description in sharpie. This makes the reassembly much easier. I also used masking tape to label parts, hoses, the orientation of the part and anything else so that there was no guessing when putting things back together.

    After a short time, I was left with this.











    To clean the bay I used simple green and a roll of paper towels to get all the grease and grim off that I could see. I thought that this was good enough!! I went to the paint shop to pick up some more parts I had media blasted and the painter gave me some Wax and Grease remover made by PPG for paint prep. It was the 440 grade. Let me say that if you think something is clean and ready for paint, go pick up some Wax and Grease remover (many people make it) and wet one cloth, wipe, and right behind it use a dry cloth. You will be amazed at what else will come off of what you thought was clean. OMG

    There are no pictures of the clean white paint, I must have been stoked to get it painted. :p

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  8. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    The paint that I used was Dupli-color Semi-Gloss for the bay. I ruffed the engine bay up with some steel wool. I can not recall which grade exactly, but it was a finer one so that no big gouges would be left behind. The fender wells got undercoating from Rustoleum. The under coating turned out to be a dark brown, so I painted it with Semi-gloss dupli-color as well. I put down three coats and it took four cans of semi-gloss and one can of undercoating.

    Earlier I had painted a section of the driver's fender well with the paints mentioned above to test their durability. I got the testing idea from Calan's build thread. After two days the paint would come right off. I left it alone and let a week pass and tested again and what do you know it no longer peels off. This is why I choose these paints.

    Pictures with the bay freshly painted. I was so happy. :D OMG













    The end result was very pleasing. I could not ask for a better finish and after a week, the paint was fairly durable. It takes more than just a fingernail to make the paint come off. Another great milestone is that everything from this point forward is a positive step, as there is nothing left for me to take off. Stay tuned for the transmission updates and PLEASE USE THE RATE BUTTON :thumb: so that I can improve these post to better help others.

    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    Marcel and Operate like this.
  9. david9291

    david9291 Proven Member

    Joined Jan 11, 2010
    Leduc, AB, Canada
    Great job on the bay. I just bought another talon tonight (said I would never again) and am looking forwards to cleaning and perhaps tucking the bay.
  10. MrNeedles

    MrNeedles Proven Member

    Joined Jan 17, 2009
    Chicago, Illinois
    That black looks way better than the white. I'm about to start painting mine black too.
  11. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    @ david9291 Thank you for the complements on the bay. It was a lot of work, but definitely paid off. Buying another talon is a good start :D, now start doing the work a little at a time and she will be as good as new.

    @ MrNeedles The white was old and wore out. I decided on the black from seeing other pictures and based of the color scheme I was trying to achieve. Painting it is a lot of work, but you will be satisfied every time you open your hood if you take your time and do it right. :thumb:


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  12. Black TSi

    Black TSi Probationary Member

    Joined Jul 27, 2011
    Racine, Wisconsin
    Engine bay look's great exactly what I want to do with mine some day, good luck with the build.
  13. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Thanks for the complement. When it does come time to paint the bay, just make sure it is as clean as you can get it. Prep is the key to the final product. Stay tuned for the many updates to come.


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  14. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    I already had the tranny tore apart, inspected, and new parts ordered at this point. Disassembley was a cake walk just by using the manual and some common sense. After all taking things apart is easy, putting them back together & making them function correctly is the real trick.

    Rebuilding the trasmission was a very long process. In fact I relearned things just from reading my entries. It took a lot of tools, a copy of the FSM, and some very knowlegable help, but the experience was one of a kind. Here is how it went in a nutshell.

    First I had the case Media blasted to clean all the dirt and grim off.




    I purchased all the parts from Tim at TMZ performance. He pressed all the gear sets together.


    I cleaned the case very very good to make sure that no media was left in the shifter assembley and to make sure that all passages where clean. I used brake cleaner and lint free towles to do this.

    All inner races are installed and left in place after the cleaning. The only race you must remove is the outer races to measure the solder.

    I took measurements for clearances by placing solder on top of the races between the race and the case. Use Vasoline to hold the solder in place.


    The case bolts are then torqued to 29 ft lbs.The case is then taken apart again. You take out the pieces of solder and you measure them with a micrometer to get your 0 point. You need a decent set of mic's good to the thousandth. Once that was done we had to figure in Preload and order the correct shims.

    Today I gave the case one last cleaning and put the front diff and output pinion gear in place.


    You must slide both pices in at the same time. Also the bearings on the front diff are pressed on.


    Next it was time for the seal below the input shaft.
    Notice the upper right corner of the picture the seal is installed with the brass facing inside the tranny.


    Make sure the oil guide is placed below the intermediate shaft inner bearing. If it is not there you will have issues. After the install of the seal grab both gear sets and slide them in. This takes a little wiggiling but you can do it.



    I then cleaned up the shifter rails by polishing them with a scotch brite pad and installed them.

    Clean on Left, Dirty on right.



    I then took out the shift forks and fit them around the hub and sliders. The shift forks slide onto the shifter rails and may take some wiggle time to get them to line up. Next is the biggest Pain in the A#$. Roll pins.

    EDIT : IT HAS BEEN BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION BY OTHER MEMBERS (ASAP1320) that the gap of the roll pin should face up or down. The answer of why makes good sense and should be followed. "When the gap on the pin is left or right it can collapse from the force of the shift fork pressing against it, when the gap is up or down the force is not acting against the gap of the pin. I've never tried to install the pin with the gap left or right so i can't say what the chance of it actually being a problem are but its just good practice to put the gap vertical."



    They do a great job in holding things together but boy are they a pain to install. After some time both shift fork roll pins where installed.

    The reverse gear lever was installed with 2 bolts torqued to 14ft lbs.


    The reverse gear was installed and lined up with the shift fork.


    The upgraded trash magnet was also installed into the case.
    To finish up the night I installed the shim onto the top of the Front Differential as well as the shim between the Output Pinion gears outer race and the case. I then slid the middle case section on to avoid any contamination.




    Do not forget the put the oil guides in the case at this point. :thumb:
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  15. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    The last thing I posted the 1st case section was just installed.


    When I left off the shims where installed onto the front diff and output pinion gear, the gear sets and seals where installed and the case was placed on top to prevent contamination.


    The next day I took the case off, clean the sealing surface squeaky clean and then apply a generous amount of Ultra Black RTV.



    The case bolts where tightened until the RTV seeped out the side. Wait 1 hour and then make another 1/4 turn, then another hour torque to 29ft lbs. These are the instructions on the RTV.

    Now that the first case section is on you will need to put the reverse gear bolt in. You may need to use a screwdriver to line up the hole as it does rotate. Torque the reverse bolt to spec.

    This Pic is just for reference as I did not take a Pic of this bolt. It is the Bolt in the middle, halfway down the case.


    Next you need to slide the center diff into place. It slides right over the ouput pinion gear.


    After the center diff is slid into place, get the outer races for the outer bearings of the intermediate shaft, Input shaft, and the center diff.

    I then placed the shims inside the case and started the races into the case. (It is easier this way) This holds the shims into place and helps you start the races evenly. This will aid in a smooth assembley.


    Again you will need to clean both sealing surfaces and apply RTV and follow the process.

    I used the same bolts, without the outside cover on, that go through the cover to apply the RTV process while I assembled the upper half.

    Note: All the parts seen in this pic will not yet be installed. This is just to show you the bolts are being used to hold the secound case piece and apply the RTV process


    Next install the ball detents and springs and torque those bolts to spec.

    Again this is being used as a reference since I did not take pics. The three bolts that are very close together on the top of the tranny in this pic


    Now take the viscosis coupler and set it onto the center diff shaft. (Do not put it on all of the way at this point) You should be looking at the part that is flat. Now you need to grab the output shaft (the shaft that goes into the transfer from the tranny) and slide it in from the bell housing side. Now get the one detent that was not the same size as the other three you put in the shift rails and place it in the center diff shaft to hold the output shaft in. Make sure the output shaft is locked into place and, Take a DEAD BLOW or other NON Metal hammer and finish hitting the vicosis coupler into place.

    Far right piece is the Viscosis Coupler


    Now this next part is a real pain. You must install the C-clip to hold the viscousis coupler into place. You can use a set of c clip pliers if you have the right set, or call a buddy and use needle nose pliers. Set the clip on top of the shaft, spread it apart, and have you buddy slide it down until it seats. Check the c clip to make sure that it is totally seated.


    Now place the intermediate shaft gear onto the shaft. Mine slide right on. (The nut will not yet be installed)


    You will also need to slide on the 5th and reverse gear assembly onto the input shaft. At the same time slide the shift fork onto the shift rails and install the roll pin.


    Install the reverse light switch.

    Reverse light switch is at the very top right above the 5th-reverse gear assembly. It is the brass piece see at the top of this photo.


    Take the two axle nuts and place a small amount of red thread locker onto the nut start the nuts onto the axle shafts finger tight. (This is already done in the above pics)

    Put the reverse synchro into place and hold down on it to apply pressure to the keys and shift the tranny into reverse using the shift levers. This will aid in tightening the nuts.

    Now get your special tool. Here is mine.


    It is the old clutch disk with a large socket welded to it for a half inch pull bar. Place this over the input shaft splines and rest the bar on something solid.


    Now get your 36mm socket and 1/2 torque wrench and set it to 110ft lbs. Put on your big boy pants and torque these puppies down. The tranny will want to turn when you tighten the nuts so I put my foot on it to hold it down while torquing.

    Make sure that when you put the tranny into reverse it is in there good. I did it the first time and it jumped out of gear on me and I was sure I broke something.

    Be sure to do both NUTS....


    After these are done you have to dent the nuts to prevent from loosening. You can use a punch and hammer or an air hammer, but if you use the air hammer be careful the part of the nut that you are bending can and will break. Ask me how I know. :p



    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  16. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Tooooooo many photos is what it said when I tried to upload soooooo..... here is part 3:thumb:

    Now get the top cover of the case and make sure that it is clean. Install the new reverse cone and the reverse wave spring with NEW machine screws. Torque the machine screws to spec.



    Take out the bolts that where holding the third case section on and make sure the top sealing surface is clean.

    Make sure the outer cover's sealing surface is clean.


    Apply Vaseline to the reverse synchro and install it into the 5th and reverse assembly. The Vaseline is just to hold the synchro into place since you will no longer be able to set the transmission onto the bell housing without some kind of support due to the output shaft. You could use a piece of wood to create space between the output shaft. Note that the bolts holding the case together should be removed as stated in the last step.


    Apply RTV to the sealing surfaces and follow the torque sequence(29ft. lbs) once again.



    The driver's side axle seal is the one with the metal casing. There is a small hole in the boot that will be facing outwards, that will need to face down.
    I applied a small amount of RTV and used a socket to press the seal in until it was flat with the case.


    The passenger side seal is all rubber. The spring faces the inside of the tranny. Apply a small amount of RTV and press it in with your 36mm socket. This seal will have a flared edge facing the outside. Press the seal in flush with the case. It is ok if the Flange hangs out but make sure the solid part behind it is flush. You do not want to press this seal in to far. The front diff will eat away at the rear of the seal and cause leakage.


    Install all rubber boots plugs and fancy moldings into the appropriate spots.

    I put my new fulcrum in (cheap part good insurance)


    Get out your OEM Fork and Throwout bearing along with the Jesus clip.


    Apply a small amount of grease to the Fulcrum and shift fork pivot point.



    Install the fork first. It may take a little pressing to get the fulcrum into place, but you can do it.


    Grease the inside of the Throwout bearing (lightly) and slide it into place.


    Install the clip.



    I also made a video of the clip installation and posted it to youtube.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwTXX58yE8c]1990 DSM throwout Bearing Clip - YouTube[/ame]

    This process took quite some time and was a real learning experience. You will need many tools to embark on this adventure and the price tag is still there for parts. I would just like to give a special thanks to Tim Zimmer @TMZperformance for quality parts and awesome customer service. If you need any of the things that you have seen in my post parts wise, it all came from TMZ Performance

    Other than that, WA-LA that is the tranny. Please use the RATE button
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  17. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Next it was time to build the motor. I went through a lot to get here. I started with standard bore Weisco's but found that my cylinders had .002 thousandths of taper. I sold those pistons and picked up some that were .020 over so that the block could be bored and have a fresh surface.

    Each piston was measured prior to boring the block. They were then marked and matched to a cylinder. This is to make sure that PTW clearance was set to what Weisco recommended. Please note that just honing the block to a set diameter will allow you to have different PTW clearances as the pistons do have a tolerance in which they are made and can be plus or minus a certain amount.

    Mains, Rods, and PTW clearances where then checked with a micrometer and a dial boar gauge. Never trust a machine shop. I say this because everyone makes mistakes and not checking the work will be no one's fault but your own. I do not remember my exact specs, but I do remember that they were on the tighter side of tolerances. If you are doing this you would benefit from making a sheet to record these numbers for safe keeping. A good reference for this work is in a series that jafro from jafromobile produced. Here is the link to the first video in that series.

    Jafromobile's Channel - YouTube

    I started with a block that had been decked and bored .020 over to accept the Weisco 1400 HD pistons.


    It was then cleaned and painted. I used Painters Tape to tape the block off. Please do not use duct tape as it will be a pity for you to mess up your mirror finish surface.



    I followed this thread to final wash the block.


    Once washed I reinstalled my balance shaft bearings 180* from the oiling holes using the rent a tool bearing race installer from AutoZone.



    Next I made sure all the main journals where clean. I installed the bearings with an oil slot in the block and the ones without into the caps.


    Next the main studs where lubed with ARP molly lube and hand tightened into the block. The crank was set into place with the bearings dry. (AT THIS POINT YOU DO NOT TURN THE CRANK BARE METAL TO METAL IS NOT SOMETHING I ENCOURAGE)


    All main journal clearances where checked using plastigauge green. All journals where within factory spec


    The crank was then rotated 90* and checked again. All were within spec. Again this is just a secondary reassurance because the clearances have already been checked with precision tools.

    Once done the crank was removed. I once again made sure that the crank and bearings where free and clear of debris.
    Assembly lube was then placed on the block side bearings.


    The crank journals got a coat of the assembly lube and the crank was set into place.


    The main caps then get a coat of assembly lube and the mains where then torque in sequence to the ARP torque spec using three steps. This was done five times as recommended by ARP.



    The thrust bearing clearance was then checked with a feeler gauge and check out in spec. If you have a dial gauge, this would be more ideal. I did not have one at the time so I did this with a feeler gauge.

    Next the rings where gaped to spec. Each ring was fitted to the cylinder in which it was installed. Top ring was gaped to 20 and the bottom 23. All oil rings were checked to insure proper clearance. All rings were seated with a piston with the 2nd ring installed. This is to insure that the ring is not slanted inside the cylinder. My rings were marked 150 and that was made to face toward the head so that you could read it when looking down at the dome of the piston.

    Once this was done and the piston rings were assembled onto the pistons. One cir-clip was installed on each of the pistons.

    The rods were then prepped for assembly. I made all bearing notches face the exhaust side just like factory. The rods where then placed inside the piston and a little lube was on the wrist pin and contact surfaces. The wrist pin slid into place and the other cir-clip was installed to secure the wrist pin. Avoid using tools to install the cir-clips at all cost. Use only your thumbs. This is to insure that the maximum amount of tension to secure the wrist pin.


    The rod bearing surfaces where then made sure to be clean and the bearings where installed.

    No lube should be added before you check your clearances.



    The ring gapes where then orientated in the manner that was on each instruction manual inside the bag with the rings.

    One and Four were done first. The dot on the piston indicates the front of the motor (water pump side).

    Using a ring compressor, each corresponding piston went into its corresponding bore. Be sure to apply non detergent engine oil to the piston walls and the piston skirt to avoid scuffing. I used a dead blow hammer to lightly tap the pistons into the bore. If the piston catches and does not go down with a gentle tap, you should remove the piston and try again. It could mean that one of the rings has expanded and is blocking the piston from sliding in smoothly.


    I did not take any pics before the lube was added. Please note that these bearings should be dry when checking clearances. The bearing clearances where then checked using plastigauge. Once they checked out, lube was applied and the caps were torque to 43ft lbs according to eagle. The same steps were followed for 2 and 3. These bolts also use molly lube and a 5 time torque method.


    Once done the crank was rotated to ensure smooth rotation. (Video)


    Do not forget to install or block off your oil squirters. Mine where reinstalled after inspection of the squirter valves (1g 6 bolt oil squirters). This is the short block in a nutshell. This is the most time consuming part. Checking clearances takes time, but it is very important to the performance of your motor. Stay tuned for the assembly of the head and long block. :thumb:
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  18. Jafro

    Jafro Proven Member

    Joined Jul 15, 2003
    Richmond, Virginia
    Man... wow... Your photos are amazing and your description is far better than what I've gone through so far in my videos. You're very thorough. This is QUALITY work my friend.

    1K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    12.200 @ 114.880 · 2G DSM
  19. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Thanks for the kind words jafro. A picture is worth a thousand words but your videos are worth a thousand pictures. I will get this thing caught up one day and then I can add your videos.


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  20. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    I started with a head that was milled and had the oil port mod http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html done. The head got new 1mm over sized engnbldr valves and guides with some BC springs and retainers. I went with 1mm over valves because I needed to have new seats cut anyway.

    All of this was assembled by the machine shop with a 5 angle valve job. (3 on the seat, 2 on the valve) All install heights and spring pressures where checked against the recommend specs.



    I took out all the oil galley plugs to ensure a thorough cleaning so those plugs where put back in with a dab of loc-tite.



    Next the lifters where installed. The lifters where bled according to the Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page and the http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...6707-project-rely-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.html thread.

    I am using Delta regrind cams, so one #10 shim (supplied by delta with the cams) was installed into each lifter hole. This is only done on regrind cams to make up for the difference that is ground away. The lifters where then dabbed with a bit of assembly lube and installed into each hole. YOU DO NOT WANT TO FILL THESE HOLES WITH OIL. Filling them with oil may cause the lifter to pump up and cause a bent valve. A little dab of lube will be plenty. Also lube the top of the lifter where the rocker arm will ride.


    Make sure after bleeding all of the lifters that you can compress them by hand.

    Next the rockers where cleaned. Then they received a dab of assembly lube on all contact surfaces. They were then rested on top of the valve stem and lifter.


    Time for the cams. Make sure that when you place the cams into the cam journals the dowel pins are facing 12O'clock. These are Delta h272. They were cleaned and each individual lobe was lubed. Keep in mind the intake cam has the provision for the cam angle sensor so make sure that one goes on the intake side. The cam caps where lubed and installed. Before torquing the cam cap bolts, install your cam seals into the head around the cam ends. I used some white lithium grease to lube these puppies up. The cam cap bolts where then torqued to spec working from the inside out.



    Next the Fidanza cam gears where placed onto the cams. The dowel pin was located on the non evo hole. The cam bolts where started and then torque to spec by using a wrench to hold the cam.


    The Cam angle sensor got a new o-ring and was installed into the cam. I forget the exact step but look in your manual and you will see what I am talking about. There is a notch that must be lined up or you will be out of time. Do not torque the bottom nut on the cam angle sensor. Later you will have to remove this nut to install the throttle body and throttle body elbow.

    Do not forget to reinstall the oil regulator onto the head and torque to spec.


    Next I put in an OEM mistu PCV valve and set the valve cover on top. I will not bolt the valve cover down until it is in the car to avoid dings in the paint.


    Do not forget that when you put the valve cover on the head for the final time you will need to install the half moon seal with some red RTV and torque the valve cover down to create a good seal.

    Some of these pictures show the head sitting on the shortblock. This is because I did not take pictures of that particular step during install. Please use the Rate Button

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    Marcel likes this.
  21. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    So now I have a complete shortblock with good clearances and machine work.

    I have a fully assembled head......

    It is time to make a motor.

    I wanted to see it look more like a motor, so I put the head on. I cleaned all of the head bolt threads and blew them out with compressed air. I then lubed all the studs with ARP moly lube and put them into the block finger tight.



    I wiped away all the excess moly lube and then I cleaned both sealing surfaces using wd40 and lint free towels.


    This next part was done before I was well educated. I sprayed the MLS gasket with copper spray and set it on the block. To make the long story short, I do not recommend doing this step. The function of the MLS gasket can be taken away if the layers are glued together using copper spray. The head gasket has everything it needs, all you should do is clean the surfaces and put the head gasket on dry. FWIW here is a pic.


    I then placed the ARP washers into the head. I had to do this after finding out that some of the washers would not fit past the valve springs

    The head was then slid onto the studs and matted up to the block. Try to line up the washers as best you can. If you are good, you will be able to ring them all.

    The nuts where then torque to ARP spec and this was done 5 times as recommended by ARP. Note that it is also recommended that you do this after a few heat cycles. I re-torqued them after 500 miles. I put some spark plug in to keep anything from falling into the cylinder.


    Note Two of the nuts will contact the spring seat at one point. For me it was only for a turn of the bolt or so but once they where torque to spec the nuts no longer touched the seat or spring.

    For the water pump, I used a GMB water pump as I have had good luck with them. The sealing surfaces where cleaned. Then the gasket was installed using copper spray and the pump was torque to spec.


    Now time for the front case. I bought new OEM parts form MITSparts .com and must say I am more than willing to do business with them again. Their customer service was great and their prices are second to none.


    The stuby shaft was torqued onto the drive gear and a bit of red loctite was used to insure it stays tight.


    The gears where then set into place and packed with White lithium grease. The red stuff is some assembly lube that I used before realizing White lithium grease would be more appropriate and stay packed without leaking out.


    The outer case was then installed using blue locktite. I also used a small amount of black RTV to insure a good seal.


    The balance shaft seal was then removed and the rubber plug was installed in its place using red RTV to hold it into place.


    The castle plug was next. I installed the o-ring into the case.


    I then used some thread sealant on the castle plug. I used a screw driver and mallet to tighten the plug. Do not go crazy on this plug as it may cause you to over tighten and crack you new front case.



    The Oil pump pully was then torqued to the drive gear using red loctite.

    Sorry no Pic as I torque this pulley, but you will need to hold the end of the stuby shaft with a wrench while you torque the gear. Do this now because when you put the oil pan on, you will not be able to hold the end with a wrench.

    Now the sealing surfaces for the front case where cleaned. The gasket was sprayed using cooper spray and the front case was torqued to spec.


    The oil filter housing was installed along with the front case. I had the OFH cleaned at the machine shop. It cost a few bucks, but was well worth it. The bolts are different sizes, so you need to make sure you have the right bolt in the wright hole. The sealing surface was cleaned, and the gasket was sprayed with copper spray. The OFH was installed and torque to spec.


    Now I flipped the motor to install the oil strainer. Since I used ARP mains I had to cut the support off of my oil strainer that went around the main bolt because it would not fit.

    You will notice here that the brace is missing.


    The oil strainer gasket was sprayed with copper spray and the bolts torque to spec using red loctite. You do not want these two bolts coming loose!!!! The oil pan is then put on with a few bolts to keep out contaminants.

    At this point, It was time to start the timing. I installed the balance shaft pulley. Even though the shafts are deleted, you still need this pulley for the spacing.


    Next there is a beveled plate that must be installed. It was easy for me to as the outline of each pulley was still on this plate. If memory serves me correct, the beveled side faces out. This is important because if you install it backwards your timing will be off!!!!!


    The timing belt pulley was then slid onto the crankshaft with the dowel pin facing out.


    The 20 picture rule caught me again, so I will have to make another part to finish this up.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    Marcel likes this.
  22. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

    Joined Nov 5, 2007
    RIpley, West Virginia
    Sweet build robert!!! Can't wait to see and hear some engine running vids and pics :D as well as seeingt what you do with the rest of the areas of the car during the build. :thumb:

    Love all the pics, great detail in the thread, so keep em coming so I got plenty of goodies to look at :D
  23. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Thanks Glenn.

    I have a week break between classes right now, so I am going to try and get it caught up this week. After looking at all the pictures last night, I have a lot of work to do. :D I am at the point now where I have to look at the pics (thankfully they are in order because the camera numbered them) and write my articles off that. All the ones up until this point where entered into the old system so it was copy and past for the most part. Glad to know that you enjoy it and I will keep them coming as time permits. Too bad all images are blocked at work or I could work on them here. :hmm:


    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  24. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Then we break into the box full of new timing components.


    The motor mount bracket was torque into place.


    Next the new tensioner was installed and torqued to spec.


    Next install the idler pulley and torque it to spec.


    The tensioner pulley needs to be installed, but not yet torqued.


    Take your new belt and place it over the cam gears.


    For the rest of the timing procedure visit this thread that I made. It is an in depth article on setting timing, especially for those with fidanza cam gears.


    After the timing was set many times and I was satisfied, I put on the front cover.



    If you notice in a few of the pics above, the metal pieces that mount the front cover where missing. I had to take some things back off to put these plates on.

    This cover was put on and the harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley where put on and torque to spec.


    As you can see, the alternator was also bolted up.

    The motor mount bracket was media blasted for a clean install. Out of stupidity, I did not even clearcoat this piece. In turn it is 8 months later and the piece is showing some surface rust. You must paint any parts that you clean to keep them looking nice. Anyway, the poly mounts where installed and the driver side motor mount was installed and torque.

    Once the bolts where torqued to spec, I put the coil and transistor onto the intake mani. Then the intake was installed onto the head. I do not have a torque wrench for these so they where just tightend to the touch.





    Next was the EGR blockoff. I used ultra black RTV on the plate and followed the steps for curing on the RTV package.

    The throttle body sealing surfaces where cleaned and prepped for install.


    The throttle body elbow had a bung welded in for the GM IAT. This was welded in right before the throttle body at a slight angle so that no moisture can build up on top of the sensor. When you install this sensor, you will need to use some thread sealant to insure that the threads do not weld themselves together.

    It is also a good idea to check how flat the surface is. Place the sealing surface up against a piece of glass to check the flatness. If it is off, take it to your local machine shop and ask them to make a pass or two on the belt sander to true it up.



    The gaskets where then installed and the parts where tightened.

    There are two important things to note. 1. This piece is aluminum, so if you try and torque it to spec the bolt may start compressing the aluminum. Tighten the bolts until you fill comfortable and do a BLT before startup. 2. If you do not replace the studs, you will have to reuse the bracket that connects the CAS to the two studs. This piece acts as a spacer and must be installed. If you have the VRSF FMIC, it comes with four bolts (which I found after this install) to bolt down the TB and TB elbow to eliminate this piece.

    The fuel rail and injectors where also installed. They where delphi 950cc injectors.



    As seen in the picture above, the lower thermostat housing and upper thermostat housing where cleaned, polished, and installed with the appropriate gaskets. The gasket fro the lower housing to the thread has to be ordered so keep that in mind.

    This is about it for the long block. Next up is the installation of the turbo and how the HX35 fits on an FP mani.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  25. BoostedBeaver

    BoostedBeaver Moderator

    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Augusta, Georgia
    Ok so I got a little ahead of myself. When I first started this venture, I purchased a HX35 of the dodge forums. The turbo was actually in good shape for the most part. It had minimal shaft play but everything else seem to check out.


    Even though things seemed fine, I decided to rebuild the turbo for peace of mind and experience.

    I purchased a genuine Holset kit from Jusmx141.


    I downloaded the manual from www.cummins.com/turbos - Service Repair Manuals

    The first thing was to get the Exhaust housing off. I unbolted the plates holding the housing on and then proceeded to remove the turbine housing. It was on there. I used heat and a mallet to help separate the two. Be careful not to damage the turbine.




    I then took the large snap ring out. Believe me; taking this out IS the easy part. The compressor cover came off easily, but had all sorts of nasty stuff inside it. The backing plate also has a lot of surface rust from sitting around.



    You can see in this picture where the compressor wheel is marked for balancing to the turbine shaft.


    I removed the nut holding the compressor wheel on by holding the turbine wheel with a wrench on the reverse side. If memory serves me correct, this is left-hand thread. Consult your manual for specifics.


    The turbine shaft is now held in by the seals. A good pull on the turbine (being gentle with the blades) with a light tap on the other side of the shaft will allow this portion to slide right out.



    Next this snap ring was removed.


    My terminology may be off as it has been some time since I referenced the inside parts of the turbo. So bear with me and make any needed corrections in your suggestions.

    Remove the oil slinger assembly.


    This piece actually consists of a few different pieces seen here.


    Now fish out the O-ring.


    Next you will find the thrust washer and another small piece.



    You will now be able to see the journal bearings. You will need to remove the outside snap rings to remove both journal bearings, and then you will need to remove the inners as they will be replaced with new parts.


    Now you need to start cleaning until your little heart is totally satisfied. I sent some of my parts to get media blasted, and I have a few more tricks for you in the next post.

    Street Build 5K  15  1

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
    Marcel likes this.

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