14b serial number and housing question

[Kyle_T]

I picked up a 14b from a local guy today and I noticed that the serial number seems to have been grinded and a different number stamped in. What does this mean?

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And does anybody know what kind of exhaust housing this is? I know its not the 14b housing. Is it an ebay one or what?

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[dsm-onster]

That's an ebay turbine housing. OR, the FP 16g turbine housing. Let's see the compressor wheel.

 

[Kyle_T]

its a 14b compressor wheel not a dual fin like the 16g.

and how freely/easily should the compressor wheel spin?

 

[JusMX141]

Regarding the part number on the compressor cover- I've never seen a MHI turbo that had ALL of the numbers of the part number cast into it. They always leave at least two spots open for numbers to be stamped. Rest assured, you have a 14B.

Regarding the turbine housing, it's a 7cm turbine housing from a GT Concepts Evo III GT turbo, a unit which is no longer available from Turbochargers.com. The little logo before the part number on the turbine housing is the giveaway here. There is nothing wrong with that housing- it was cast from a ported MHI housing and features a ported wastegate hole and 34mm flapper to keep boost under control.

 

[Kyle_T]

Thanks for the info! How freely/easily do 14b's spin? My t25 seems to spin more freely than this 14b and the one i had before. Maybe because it need a little oil ran through it?

Oh, and the holes for the exhaust manifold bolt holes seemed to be drilled out because theres no threads on 3 of them and i can see just a tiny bit on one of the holes. Previous owner said the car he pulled it off they just had the oem bolts with nuts on the end. He said to just go that route or I could take it to a shop and have them weld some studs on the housing. Are there any easier ways to go about this?

 

[JusMX141]

Any journal bearing turbo should spin as easily as the next with proper oiling; although I've found that larger turbos seem to spin more freely or keep spinning longer because of the heavier rotating assembly (think heavy flywheel versus light).

Also, a whooped-up turbo with a shitload of shaft play will often spin more freely under a no-load situation than a tight one with proper bearing tolerances. Common sense tells you there will be less friction if the bearings are worn.

 

[Kyle_T]

Also, a whooped-up turbo with a shitload of shaft play will often spin more freely under a no-load situation than a tight one with proper bearing tolerances. Common sense tells you there will be less friction if the bearings are worn.

yeah, that makes alot of sense because my t25 has a bunch of shaft play, and the 14b has none. thanks again! I cant wait to get it all hooked up and get the car running. And I should feed oil from the head right?

 

[bertrenolds]

I thought people were running oil lines from the filter housing instead of the stock setup of oil comming from the head because the oil isin't as hot?

 

[bane3d]

I thought people were running oil lines from the filter housing instead of the stock setup of oil comming from the head because the oil isin't as hot?

It's a pressure issue, not a heat issue AFAIK. Many turbos have detonated because of improper oil pressure. People either give too much or too little. There's a reducer pill that helps, but specific turbos are better from the head vs the OFH.

d

 

[bertrenolds]

I see, so it's better to leave the 14b or 14b converted to small 16g turbo running from the head then?