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14b install half way done - need some suggestions

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lowandsleekDSM

15+ Year Contributor
309
0
Jul 31, 2007
tampa, Florida
Ok everyone, im doing my first 14b install on my 2g and ive been trying to follow the install walk through on VFAQ.com and its been pretty good to me..and plus a lot of the stuff is pretty much plug and play if you really think about it. Well ive hit my first minor speed bump. I wanted to get some suggestions first before bolting down the water lines and such. Now the 14b that i bought some 7 months ago came with one water line already which is a relief. (The water line in the back of the turbo....the return line which hooks back up to the line thats bolted to the block i believe?) But im running into problems bending up the other water line. Heres some pics i took just for reference:

I used this line (it just looked like it would fit pretty much i just bent it just a little and the wastegate arm clears too)
14binstall001.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Or should i have used this one instead?
14binstall002.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

And is there anyway to clock the housing just a little bit? I had to stretch the wastegate actuator just a little bit to bolt it on to the housing of the 14b? I know there is like a clamp in between the turbine housing and the exhaust housing - do i use that to clock it? Any info that could be useful would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well i did some research on my own and found a great tech article on how to solve boost creep with porting the passage way to the wastegate. The guy who sold me this turbo gave me some great info on what he ported. He basically ported the exhaust inlet to take the step out of it and ported the o2 housing im guessing. So all i have to do is the wastegate passage way and i shoudl be set...granted that i do it right LOL Rather put the work into it now to make it run right and safely...then later on.
 
also, if the wastegate rod/arm is too tight it wont open immediately, the slower opening could cause it to creep more. and with my experience with the 14b porting the wastegate is very effective, reducing my creep to only a 2 psi increase.
 
Well i think i figured out that the actuator arm is ok for right now. Since the turbo is off the car (along with the t25 and just sitting in the driveway on jack stands) i might as well fix this potential problem before i have to fingure this out the hard way. Besides, it would be yet another learning experience i have to go through LOL And like i said before, two thirds of the work is done, just the previous owner didnt port the wastegate passage thats all, no big deal i have the tools and the area to do it so im good, just need the carbide bit thats about it :thumb:
 
Just don't open the hole up so big that the flapper can't properly seal. Once the air starts taking a path around the wastegate flapper, it will warp and crack the housing as such.


In response to your tubular o2 / o2 dump housing question.....the o2 dump housing would all but eliminate the chances of boost creep, but it would be quite annoying if you're dialed with a fairly low boost level. On cars with bigger turbos running higher boost levels, the o2 dumps sound almost identical to an actual external gate because the wastegate rarely (if ever) opens during daily driving. On your car, a quick-spooling 14B will make 12-15psi almost instantly, and hold it for a much longer duration of RPM's than a car with a big turbo running alot of boost would. So everytime you get on it when merging into traffic....braaaaaaappppp- open exhaust from under the hood.

I think the reason o2 dumps get such a bad rap from DSMers is because they are used on cars that are stock or close to stock running low boost levels. In this situation, the wastegate is practically always open. This isn't the case when they're used on cars running bigger turbos at 20+psi.

If guys would just buy exhaust systems that mate well to their mod list instead of getting the largest, most free-flowing system available to put on their otherwise stock car and waiting to grow into it (which sometimes never happens), the term boost creep never would've been introduced to the DSM dictionary.
 
Oh yeah i know. I was reading on how to take that 90 degree turn out and smooth out the passage to allow a much smoother passage way for the exhaust to go through. I plan on not touching the wastegate hole itself because im pretty sure it doesnt have the 34mm flapper mod or anything.
 
Oh yeah i know. I was reading on how to take that 90 degree turn out and smooth out the passage to allow a much smoother passage way for the exhaust to go through. I plan on not touching the wastegate hole itself because im pretty sure it doesnt have the 34mm flapper mod or anything.

It doesn't have the 34mm flapper, and jusmx141 brings up a good point; I put the o2 dump on when I was running 15psi and since the 14b spools so fast it gets really annoying. But when I raised the boost to 20ish psi, I would have to try and get the dump to open so I got the noise only when I wanted to...just my 2 cents
 
Well this is why im going to try to take that ridge off just before the wastegate opening so the gases doesnt have a sharp turn to make and everyone knows this, this is simple knowledge. But in my case, i thought about having a o2 dump, but it would be definitely annoying just to have it on a DD car like mine. Im not running a crazy amount of boost and by far this would be a cheaper way of possibly eliminating boost creep. Trust me im doing a lot of reaserch on porting the 14b correctly. I found a few good threads with pics on porting the 14b properly so hopefully i can get this potential problem solved. Thanks for all the info. :thumb:
 
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