The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

14b/16g install on a 2g

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NyQuiL07

15+ Year Contributor
90
0
Oct 15, 2004
columbus OH/mundelein IL, Illinois
Well I found a pretty good deal on a big16g, ported/clipped, 1k miles on it, and the guy wants 325 shipped...seems too good of a deal, but well see. Anyway, my question is about getting the 16g on my car. Ive seen kits out there to get 14b/16g's on 2g's for around 200 bucks, but it seems like to much for a j-pipe and some lines. My question to you all who have done the swap on a 2g is did you guys break down and buy the kit? or find other places to get the required parts? I know the oil feed ill pretty much have to buy, but can i reuse the stock 2g oil return, what about water lines? And what did you guys do for the j-pipe? Ive also heard, its possible to resuse stock 1g lines, how easily do these swap on? as far as gaskets and all go, im pretty sure napa or a local auto parts store should carry that good stuff.

If i have to break down and buy a kit, what do you all think of this one? i found it on ebay.

2g install kit


again its near the 200 range.

thanks.
 
in my opinion I wouldnt cheap out on something like this or you might end up frying a turbo. Personally id just buy the kit from slowboy racing for $200 but that is your call.

About the lines I will quote the mini faq on it from their website.

"Don't i need a new oil return line? You could but you can also file the stock oil drain line so that it will fit the bottom of your turbo saving you 65.00 for a 6 bolt oil return line.

Don't i need new water lines? No, just tweak the stock ones with your fingers slightly and they will go right on, they use the same size banjo bolts so there is no real need to replace them."
 
I didn't go for the entire "install kit" as it's not really necessary. I bought the steel braided oil feed line from Slowboy, a new 7cm gasket, new turbo/manifold bolts, a 1G J-pipe, and a 1G oil return line. All of that stuff together cost me about $90.

I couldn't really justify spending $200 for one of those install kits.
 
Here's a small tip I received when I installed a 14b on my 2g a couple weeks ago... Screw "tweaking" the stock water lines. Go out and get some 3/8" fuel hose and some fuel hose clamps. Then cut the stock water lines wherever is easiest for you. Use the fuel hose to connect the water lines and the clamps of course to clamp down the hose. This makes life SO much easier, not having to deal with those stupid fitting on the water lines everytime you take the turbo in/out of the car.

Coup D E'Tat gets credit for this tip, as he's the one that clued me in about it :thumb:
 
blcknspo0ln said:
time = money, which do you have more of? ;)

comments like those dont help, so please dont bother.

Everyone else, thanks for the input. That waterline tip should come in handy.
 
I'd had a small 16g sitting on the workbench for 2.5 years before I broke down and bought an install kit for it a month ago. The kit came missing the gasket between the j-pipe and the turbo compressor housing. Further it needed some grinding as the j-pipe and its' welds intruded into the space on the flange where the bolts went. The water lines tweak fairly easily - just go slow and get a real good idea of where you want them to end up before you start. You'll fit the turbo to the manifold several times to get this straight. Otherwise it fit reasonably well and it was nice to have everyhting show up at once, cept for that gasket, and be ready to go. I am still not certain it was worth the $200 smackers though considering the j-pipe needed some extra work...and that is the one item you are really purchasing the kit for.

You will want to get some replacement turbo to exhaust manifold bolts. They will most certainly sieze if you don't have some replacements on hand. Same goes for the o2 housing to turbo bolts and stud. And while the thing is apart take a good close look at your exhaust manifold - mine, albiet 4 years older than yours, was cracked in 3 places. Two of them were leaks in the runners. One of them was through the divider in the collector area. If that piece had come loose on my newly installed s16g :mad:

I'll also point out that on my car at 113k miles the stock turbo to mani gasket was leaking and the o2 housing to turbo was also leaking and was cracked between the main passage and waste gate passage.
 
NyQuiL07 said:
comments like those dont help, so please dont bother.

Everyone else, thanks for the input. That waterline tip should come in handy.


really? tell me why my comment doesn't add up? maybe if you'd think about it then it'd work out.

if you have more time to put together an "install kit", then you should look around and scavenge 1g parts. this leads to a cheaper "install kit"

if you have no time [ my car is a DD, so i had no time to gather the pieces during my install, or prior to ] and have the extra cash to shell out then by all means buy the pre-assembled kits.

:rolleyes:
 
blcknspo0ln said:
really? tell me why my comment doesn't add up? maybe if you'd think about it then it'd work out.

if you have more time to put together an "install kit", then you should look around and scavenge 1g parts. this leads to a cheaper "install kit"

if you have no time [ my car is a DD, so i had no time to gather the pieces during my install, or prior to ] and have the extra cash to shell out then by all means buy the pre-assembled kits.

:rolleyes:

made sense to me blcknspo0ln :thumb: LOL
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top