The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

$125 Street Tune(very pleased). Input welcome

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Needs some work, your ltft lo is max'd positive at 12.5%, your coolant temps are too high(pulling timing), your intake temps are too high(pulling timing). You have a nice extremely flat afr curve, but your timing is fairly low at 9-10* max.

Your global fuel with 1050's should be at around -57%, you have it at -59%, which would help a little, but it's still trying to add in a bunch of fuel(at least 12.5% on lo). What was actual boost on that run? What kind of gas where you on too? If your on pump gas 11.6:1 is too lean, it may be too lean anyway, you could try to richen it up and try to get some timing back.

Edit: This is the order of operations i tune in anyways, many people do it differently.


1.)Check for boost leaks
2.)Check base fuel pressure
3.)Let your car warm up to operating temps
4.)Log STFT, LTFT lo and mid, and Mafraw
5.)Adjust accordingly, use http://jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration2.html
6.)Make a 3rd gear WOT run then calibrate your MAF, use http://jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration1.html
7.)Another 3rd gear run, adjust afr's to desired setting
8.)once those are set, mess with timing

Now that's not how everybody does it, and it's not always that easy, if your getting knock and what not.
 
While you might as well adjust your TPS, 94% WOT is technically fine, and it won't change anything. Your ECU uses 89% to determine if it's actually WOT or not. It uses 91% to see if your TPS is faulty. If i remember that right anyway. I know for sure anything above 91% will put you into WOT though. :thumb:

I'd be more concerned about your TPSvolts at idle, and your idle switch, you can use TPS offset to get it right. You want it around .63 volts off the throttle.
*Use link from snowborder*

Haha, snowborder ninja edited i think...:D
 
Should I still adjust my airflow even though I'm on the stock maf? So you'd increase timing 1 degree from boost to redline and run another 3rd gear pull?

Yes. It doesn't matter which MAF/MAS you're running as you should always do the idle/rev/cruise tuning.

I would do idle and rev (50Hz and 150Hz), then drive around for a bit, and check/retune them (if necessary). Then go find a highway and do your cruise tuning (250Hz). Then when you come back from that, double check your idle/rev tunes. Then once you feel those are as good as you can get them, go do your WOT tuning. Try and start out as low in the RPM range as possible (1500-2000 is ideal) and go all the way to redline. Just follow the links Aaron posted above and you'll be set!

I would not mess with timing yet until you get those things Aaron mentioned under control. If your coolant and intake temps are pulling timing, you don't want to be adding timing on top of that because if your coolant temps are actually in check, then you'll have an extra degree of timing that might cause problems. I'd worry about your airflow for now (since it seems your fuel is pretty good), then change your fuel if you want, then start slowly adding timing.

If you need/want help, just throw logs up and we'll guide you through it and explain our reasoning for suggested changes.

And yes, Aaron, I did edit my post to include the link. ;)
 
Okay, here's my update, I didn't get to make any very hard pulls but I did get to do 2 things.

1. Made sort of a ram air setup
-Intake temps are no more than 3 degrees above outside temp.
2. Flushed my coolent(looked orange) and replaced with 30/70 mix.
-Temps never went above 203 while driving.

I also dropped my global down to -57.
 
Okay, here's my update, I didn't get to make any very hard pulls but I did get to do 2 things.

1. Made sort of a ram air setup
-Intake temps are no more than 3 degrees above outside temp.
2. Flushed my coolent(looked orange) and replaced with 30/70 mix.
-Temps never went above 203 while driving.

I also dropped my global down to -57.

That sounds like a really good start! Now, just work on getting your fuel trims in line, with the links I gave you, and you'll be making big progress. :thumb:
 
Another update. Here are 2 logs, the first log is with me just idling with airflow in order then doing a pull. After the pull I gave her more timing. And after that pull I gave it more timing from 3500 all the way up. Couldn't log it because laptop died. I'll get more today though.

Oh yeah, I forgot. I'm running 16.5lbs of boost steady. My dsmlink reads my A/F's 1 higher than they are. So should I lean it out a bit? If so, how?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
4 more log. Ruff 1 and 2 I added timing. Ruff 3 and 4 I added fuel. And the 50hz was just me idling.

Tell me what to do. I'm thinkin of taking my 1600hz slider down 5 and my 2000hz slider down 3. And since my STFT and my LTFT Lo are like 10 and -10 I should move my global? Which way should I move it?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top