11 second setup advice needed

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tubular exhaust manifold (broke need new one)-> ported 2g free
evo 3 16g turbo -> to4b v trim 599.00
| 3"turbo back exhaust
| 3" o2 housing with ext dump
| 2.5"intake piping
| safc2
|maf translator (3.5" gm maf)
| rewired evo 8 pump -> walbro 255 100.00
| fuel injector clinic 650cc's -> 850's? 314.00
| ebay fmic kit
| dodgegarage modded 1g bov
| keydiver stage 3 ecu and chip , studder box set at 6k rpms - need a wideband ? aem 289.00


| fresh stock pistons and rods -> would like to upgrade but lack or funds 768.00
| balance shaft eliminator kit
| arp head studs
| cometic headgasket
| ported and polihed head
| 3 angle valve job
| stock cams-> brian crower 272's 316.00

so that would come out to 1015$ without the fuel injectors and piston rod combo and wideband- 2386 with them.


at the moment im a dishwasher so funds are low. what do you think? advice ? suggestions? let me hear them.

best pass to date, 12.388 @ 110, 26 psi (falls to 18 at redline (8000 rpm) )

 

[brute]

Getting DSM Link and getting a better tune might just shave that 0.3 off so you break into the 11's. Don't get a V-trim. It'd almost be a waste of money at this point. Get a 50-trim. 850cc's sound like a plan. Cams, you could get ForcedPerformance cams or the DKS cams. They're basically the same as the name brands, but like $100 cheaper. As far as forged internals, save that for later. You don't need them as of now.

 

[kelvinb]

instead of buying a wideband, is there a friend local that has one? i have one, and a few friends do around here also and we usually ride along to help tune with it instead of everyone buying one.

 

[brute]

So you just pop it in, tune, then plug the bung? My friends and I were thinking about doing this... $300 doesn't seem too steep when it's split 5 ways.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Basically the same mods (Take away the Translator add a SMIM) gave me the time in my sig at 24psi on pump gas.

 

[DSM007]

Jeese,650's are plenty for 11's.....hell ya can do it with 550's but thats cutting it close.....so forget the injectors.....I hope that stage 3 ECU is setup for the global fuel control for them 650's and run Jeff O's new phantom knock code....if ya dont have it yet it only costs $30 for the mod....ya have a decent front mount I see......with stock cams ya would be really pushing it to run 11's so the cam upgrade isnt a bad idea(264/272 combo not unless your going all out with a bigger turbo then run the 272/272 combo)....if ya wanna run a different intake manny then do it but I seen quite a few guys runs 11's on the stocker on the talon digest years ago,most of them back then in the 10's were running a stocker with the extrude hone process done to them.....get a POCKETLOGGER,ya can get them for nothing on Ebay for the cable and run the MMCD software,keep it between 0-3 counts of knock and 19-24 degrees of timing for best power results...I know the MAFT is a pain to tune with the version 1.0 software,I dunno with the version 2.0 software although if ya have it......ramchargers also sells an extension cable for $30 so ya can run the MAFT inside of the cockpit to make it easier on ya now if that helps.....a 6000 RPM launch isnt really needed unless your running drag radials and a huge power setup........I remember when the stage 3 TMO was out my buddy were trying to launch at 5500 on street tires,the car was smoking the tires on takeoff and almost hitting a wall in a parking lot.....3500 RPM's the car was just bogging,4500 RPM's was perfect.......slip the clutch out a little at the track and save that tranny,dont slip it a little,wait for the ass end to squat and then just dump it because your on a 3 bolt rear end Im sure.....just wait for the 10-15 psi to build on the stutterbox and give it a smooth letup of the pedal like your taking off like normal almost,letup off the gas,take your time and take a smooth shift into second gear(John Shep,Sean glazer,and Jeff Hill drive doesnt slam second gear),so dont just slam second like a honda,our trannies dont like shifts very much above 7000 RPM's into second gear.

Keep the boost under 25PSI...at 25 PSI with the stock headbolts the head will usually lift and the stock gasket will usually say seeya later alligator,run some good race gas or run water injection with 93 octane and with a racegas mix if ya prefer.

Good luck with the car there Brian and its me Levi by the way.

 

[compression]

yes my ship has global fuel controll i do not have the pk code but pk isnt a problem atm, and as far as cams i would like to get them anyways so i can get a little more power in the top end, seeing as i changed my rev limit to 8250 with the chip, i do want to run a different intake manifold but i dont think funds will allow it,i did have a pocket logger at one time but somebody jacked my palm pilot so im sharing johns until i get another palm pilot, i also have the boost gauge conversion so it reads knock sum and the cel comes on at 15 counts of knock, as far as the maft i run version 2.02 its relativly easy to tune, but then again i only use it for mafs relocation and rough tuning , i have the afc for fine tuning and for use in the cockpit , ( sometimes i tune while driving down the 1/4 at moroso . )i have the selectable studder box code, i have 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, and 6500 , ive tried them all and the 6000 rpm studder box works wonders usually i barely get a chirp when launching on the street but for some reason lights em up at the track plus on the 6000 rpm studder box the boost bounces between 15-20 psi as for shifting smooth i try to shift smooth but usually i do bang gears, but hell my dad is the transmission builder at action transmissions ( Son Of Kirk Racing ) as for boost levels , if i set it at 27 psi it will fall to about 18or 19 by redline, plus i have Arp headbolts and a cometic headgasket and i always throw a little race gas( 110 ) in the tank at the track or if i dont forget some gt plus, and i knew it was you levi btw you have a spare 2g manny or even a 1g i dont care, i have some videos if you go look in the dsm videos section , although ill post them on this thread anyways i have incar views so you can see how i shift/drive, maybe my driving is the only thing holding me back who knows

 

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just the incar video

<embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf" FlashVars="video=e1979e23-5457-42df-8070-980d0059d727" quality="high" bgcolor="#ffffff" width="428" height="352" name="ePlayer" align="middle" allowScriptAccess="sameDomain" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" />

and here is my compilation video

<embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf" FlashVars="video=8ea67911-67d4-49c0-81c9-980f003ccc35" quality="high" bgcolor="#ffffff" width="428" height="352" name="ePlayer" align="middle" allowScriptAccess="sameDomain" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" />

 

[compression]

sweet didnt know you could post videos right on the page

 

[ericbev]

A race gas tune with the E316G would be much more effective with an external gate setup actually holding some real numbers up top. If you are falling to 18-19 by redline, there is alot of power to be picked up. That would be my first course of action although my opinion is ever soo slightly biased considering internal gates are the devil.


I saw no mention of an external in your mod list. The pic of the tubular also had no flange and I couldnt see the O2 setup. You are still on the internal gate aerent you?



EDIT: A wideband is never a bad investment.

 

[compression]

right because i have never had any bad expeirence with internal wastegates plus the waste gate and manifold to accept one is even more costly , i have the 31 mm flapper in my evo 3 16g

 

[compression]

A race gas tune with the E316G would be much more effective with an external gate setup actually holding some real numbers up top. If you are falling to 18-19 by redline, there is alot of power to be picked up. That would be my first course of action although my opinion is ever soo slightly biased considering internal gates are the devil.


I saw no mention of an external in your mod list. The pic of the tubular also had no flange and I couldnt see the O2 setup. You are still on the internal gate aerent you?



EDIT: A wideband is never a bad investment.

i suppose i could also try shimming the wastegate by putting washers in between the wastegate and compressor housing. and why are internal gates the devil

 

[pneumo]

because they blow open at high boost.

 

[1gcrazy]

That second video gave me chills. The music along with the compilation. TBS is ####in radder than rad.

 

[compression]

because they blow open at high boost.

they blow open as in the flapper just opens up wide? or it breaks? or what?

 

[pneumo]

Yup, flapper opens up. Or, to be more accurate, the flapper won't shut enough to keep the boost up. A couple years ago I had a 16G with a 34mm internal gate. It worked fine until I got cams and tried to run high boost. I also had a full 3" exhaust, and boost fell to 16psi by 7k rpm. So I added a couple washers to the wastegate actuator and it held more boost.

 

[topstreet]

The stock motor is going to handle what the 16G can throw at it. (Good Tune)

External waste gates blow open too. The trick is balancing the right sized valve and spring. I have a Tial 44mm and a 26psi spring (MBC @ 43psi), still blowing open. (A much different setup, but just giving an example.) If you are loosing boost and there are no leaks inthe system, good tune, good gas, ect...... Then stick a couple of washers in there.

I was able to get one of the adjustable HKS actuators (dual port) to fit with a little modification and got very precise boost control and quicker spool with that.

I didnt look at your profile, but are you set with a good clutch, suspension, motor mounts, engine and trans right now. I have seen alot of people make problems worse by racing trannies that grind or motors that are low on compression.... That sort of thing. Just make sure your basics are covered first.

Pump gas will get you pretty far before needing anything higher. I wouldnt waste your time with much less then 780cc injectors and a walbro 255HP pump. I have maxed out the 680cc's on high boost 16g's and pump gas before.

I hope any of this helps

 

[compression]

ive got a pretty good clutch, but stock suspension, motor mounts, and a freshly rebuilt transmission and engine.

correct me if im wrong but clutch and suspension is mainly for short times, i mean im getting a decent 60' low 1.7's what should i be getting on street tires ?

 

[topstreet]

1.6s-->1.8s on street tires is not bad at all. The bounce on the drivetrain is what I dislike with the stock mounts and suspension. The shock that can cause on the system is hard on parts. Wheel hop is the other one. If those wheels start to hop its going to break something sooner or later. Some times you are doing it and dont even know it.

I have seen many dsm's with the bullfrog look going down the track and put down good times. I have also been stuck on the side of the road with these guys helping them install trannies in the gutter. HAHA!!!

 

[DSM007]

they blow open as in the flapper just opens up wide? or it breaks? or what?

Well when your at high rpms its supposed to be open .
If your doing good with the 31mm flapper without alot of creep then thats great,some people run into the problem with the 34mm flappers blowing open EARLY because of the greater surface area and it makes spoolup slower before you reach full boost,I always had a pain in the ass with slow spoolup with my 20G at lower rpms running a 34mm flapper on an internal wastegate(like below 3500 rpms a honda civic would pass you,not even an onset of boost at all until 3500rpms).......people shim the wastegate to tighten it up and make it less easier to blow the flapper open at low rpm's and decrease the spoolup time,bad thing is once it spools up then you get a big boost spike from hell from it being so tight......Im going to try a tial soon on my #1 runner of my 2G manny and see if my wastegate issues are fixed.

Brian if I had a manny I would def loan it to ya bro......nice shifting tranny by the way,and I always have one of those good smelling leaf things in my rear view mirror too

 

[compression]

Should i be safe spraying a 50 shot? , i mean i just remember i have a bottle sitting here in my room and its filled , and i have nitrous lines and all i need is the solenoid , is this just an off the wall suggestion?