We're on Boost said:

Awesome!
My drawing is kind of ambiguous down where I wrote in 2½ and 3½" for where the flap goes to, and I can't get a decent check on that with it in the car. But your O2 sensor is probably in a little different position anyway, since manifolds and O2 housings are different.
I never did tie down the bottom end of it to keep it from fluttering. So 3/16" clearance to the O2 sensor is about what's needed to keep it from ever hitting.

Click to expand...

Gonna see how the paper template fits. Maybe there I can fingure out a stand-off and bolt solution for an additional hold down.

@Justin DuBois , did you have to port your TD05H turbine housing to avoid boost creep with the 20G?

We're on Boost said:

@Justin DuBois , did you have to port your TD05H turbine housing to avoid boost creep with the 20G?

Click to expand...

No, the 15deg clip on the turbine blades are effective to address excessive spike, and creep.

Justin DuBois said:

No, the 15deg clip on the turbine blades are effective to address excessive spike, and creep.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks. That's kind of what I was afraid of though. You did apparently feel that something needs to be done beyond just gathering up all the Mitsu parts and putting them together. That something was clipping the turbine wheel.

So, what got me asking you this is, @athlete3344 in this thread in post #15, is asking basically if he should go external wastegate to avoid boost creep, or if he should stick with the internal gate on the TD05H turbine housing and just try to put together a better actuator than what he has.
I hate to try to tell him what to do because I haven't done much with the Mitsu turbos, and I see the potential complications multiplying already. He has the awesomeness of a brand-new looking TD05H-20G turbo that has just been sitting around doing nothing for a long time, but a no-fit actuator.
Want to take a look at his question in post #15? Nobody has tried to answer it yet.

We're on Boost said:

Ok thanks. That's kind of what I was afraid of though. You did apparently feel that something needs to be done beyond just gathering up all the Mitsu parts and putting them together. That something was clipping the turbine wheel.

So, what got me asking you this is, @athlete3344 in this thread in post #15, is asking basically if he should go external wastegate to avoid boost creep, or if he should stick with the internal gate on the TD05H turbine housing and just try to put together a better actuator than what he has.
I hate to try to tell him what to do because I haven't done much with the Mitsu turbos, and I see the potential complications multiplying already. He has the awesomeness of a brand-new looking TD05H-20G turbo that has just been sitting around doing nothing for a long time, but a no-fit actuator.
Want to take a look at his question in post #15? Nobody has tried to answer it yet.

Click to expand...

I did go with a billet internal WGA, so that I could increase the spring pressure. At Redline, the minimum boost I have is ~16-17 psi. I have not used an external myself.

I’ll take a look at the thread.

Before I swap out the alt, I check if the template fits.



Looks workable, might see where a standoff could go.



I’ve got the E3 o2 sensor routing out the top, so there is no clearance issue there. I will also look at one less cut and bend for the 2G o2 sensor routing.

Justin DuBois said:

I’ve got the E3 o2 sensor routing out the top, so there is no clearance issue there. I will also look at one less cut and bend for the 2G o2 sensor routing.

Click to expand...

Awesome that you won't need that lower flap to clear an O2 sensor.
On my car I do a walk-around before and after every drive (like you would do with an airplane) and one thing I always look at is the clearance there, between that flap and my O2 narrow band, to make sure the heat shield isn't rotating.
It did rotate from vibration at first which is why I added that trick to the upper heat shield (for the PS pump) which is what keeps it from rotating. But in your case, if you find a way to hang onto it down lower someplace, that will be terrific because it should keep it from rotating and would also reduce flutter!

Stand-off thread tap in the alt is M5x0.80 - and stock there is a M5->M6 conversion stand off for the cable relief.