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Spyder Timing job, head work, and clutch

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b00zt3d spyd3r

b00zt3d spyd3r

Proven Member
565
413
Feb 25, 2016
Lawton, Oklahoma
Well boys she was fun while she lasted. Water pump took a dump on me. Leaking coolant from timing side. Havent pressure tested to confirm, but seeing where the coolant is coming from looks like the weep hole or the pump gasket. Any ways, I'm gonna do full timing job, and new valve seals while I'm at it. What is the "go to" for water pumps these days? Was looking at the gates kit on extreme psi with oem tensioner, but not sure if there's a better option or kit i haven't come across. Also replacing my worn stock clutch. Probably gonna go south bend as I have heard and read good things about. Any ways yall point me in the right directions please. Last time i had water pump and timing components changed was ten years ago and ;paid someone to do it cuz i had no clue about working on these cars I just knew I loved them LOL, doing this on my own this time. Thanks for input.
 
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The more oem parts you can use for timing components the better, especially the belt. For the water pump, oem, Aisin or gates will do you fine.

For clutch you could do Southbend, Exedy or ACT, those would be my 3 suggested brands, nothing heavy, you'll break traction before slipping.
 
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jdxnc said:
The more oem parts you can use for timing components the better, especially the belt. For the water pump, oem, Aisin or gates will do you fine.

For clutch you could do Southbend, Exedy or ACT, those would be my 3 suggested brands, nothing heavy, you'll break traction before slipping.
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Yessir thank you. Adding items to cart now. Also going to do arp head studs, should I go oem head gasket since im just replacing and not machining the block or head?
 
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jdxnc said:
nothing heavy, you'll break traction before slipping.
Click to expand...
What wpuld you consider too heavy?
I'm currently on a Justin Whitesell 20g with all supporting mods. Was considering this option as "future proofing"

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Alright guys parts are ordered! Went with the stage 2 sb clutch instead of the stage 3 as to not over do it. Like Mr. Drew said ill break traction before the clutch slips. This will be my first time doing a head gasket or timing components on my own so its gonna be a learning experience for sure, but i got this :hellyeah:. Thanks for yalls input and suggestions. I'll be asking for help next LOL.
 
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b00zt3d spyd3r said:
Alright guys parts are ordered! Went with the stage 2 sb clutch instead of the stage 3 as to not over do it. Like Mr. Drew said ill break traction before the clutch slips. This will be my first time doing a head gasket or timing components on my own so its gonna be a learning experience for sure, but i got this :hellyeah:. Thanks for yalls input and suggestions. I'll be asking for help next LOL.
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I read your original post. Why are you doing head gasket?
 
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pauleyman said:
Read your original post. Why are you doing head gasket?
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Piece of mind really. I haven't confirmed or tested, but I have a sneaky suspicion it has a small Crack/leak. Have been slowly losing coolant over time and had no visible leaks. Could probably get away with not doing it, and just replacing the head studs with the one by one method but I'd rather do it right and have Piece of mind.
 
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b00zt3d spyd3r said:
Alright guys parts are ordered! Went with the stage 2 sb clutch instead of the stage 3 as to not over do it. Like Mr. Drew said ill break traction before the clutch slips. This will be my first time doing a head gasket or timing components on my own so its gonna be a learning experience for sure, but i got this :hellyeah:. Thanks for yalls input and suggestions. I'll be asking for help next LOL.
Click to expand...
all the information needed is on this forum, as well as a ton of videos on youtube. read, read, read, and watch. Timing job is not hard, just take your time. My first time was 4-5 hours.
 
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Anthony Hornback said:
all the information needed is on this forum, as well as a ton of videos on youtube. read, read, read, and watch. Timing job is not hard, just take your time. My first time was 4-5 hours.
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yessir I have been doing so for the past week or so. I'm pretty confident in my abilities and I believe I'll do just fine. 💪
 
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b00zt3d spyd3r said:
Piece of mind really. I haven't confirmed or tested, but I have a sneaky suspicion it has a small Crack/leak. Have been slowly losing coolant over time and had no visible leaks. Could probably get away with not doing it, and just replacing the head studs with the one by one method but I'd rather do it right and have Piece of mind.
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I suppose but why not test it and be sure? Leakdown and coolant pressure test should pinpoint problems so youre informed. Its your car but for me I dont fix what isn't broken. If I were upgrading that's one thing, but a repair. Nope.
 
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pauleyman said:
I suppose but why not test it and be sure? Leakdown and coolant pressure test should pinpoint problems so youre informed. Its your car but for me I dont fix what isn't broken. If I were upgrading that's one thing, but a repair. Nope.
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Well i am upgrading head studs, and replacing valve seals so might as well. You are right though, those tests would confirm and probably save me a few dollars but 🤷‍♂️ oh well its getting done LOL
 
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Regarding valve stem seals - do you have a valve spring compressor tool? I could see removing the head if you aren't comfortable with the "rope trick" to hold the valves from dropping into the cylinder after pulling the keepers.
 
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b00zt3d spyd3r said:
Well i am upgrading head studs, and replacing valve seals so might as well. You are right though, those tests would confirm and probably save me a few dollars but 🤷‍♂️ oh well its getting done LOL
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In that case are you having the head milled? I would also recommend carbide scrapers for block prep instead of razor blades. Also a thread chaser or tap or make one for the head bolt holes. It does afford you the opportunity to clean a bunch of stuff that is otherwise difficult to get to.
 
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dwb said:
Regarding valve stem seals - do you have a valve spring compressor tool? I could see removing the head if you aren't comfortable with the "rope trick" to hold the valves from dropping into the cylinder after pulling the keepers.
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My buddy has one, but if he doesn't come thru im gonna order the euro export one.
 
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The last one I did i went ahead and took off the water pipe, thermostat housing etc. Anything I had to unbolt got completely cleaned and grease free. Big improvement to engine bay. New hoses too since they were all easy to get to.
 
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pauleyman said:
The last one I did i went ahead and took off the water pipe, thermostat housing etc. Anything I had to unbolt got completely cleaned and grease free. Big improvement to engine bay. New hoses too since they were all easy to get to.
Click to expand...
Will definitely be doing some cleaning while in there. All my hoses are new silicone hoses less than a year old.

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