Looking for Education and advice. 95 Talon TSi

Recently aquired a Talon on trade, posted it for trades,offers because i have no idea what its worth as a car in general but started to fall for it.

Got the car not running with most if not all the parts to get it to be a running car again inside of it

Owner said the motor was rebuilt and built for nitrous, appears to have defiently been rebuilt from the outside or atleast torn down as every gasket and plug i can see appears to be brand new, the manifold was changed to one with a waste gate, ebay turbo, aftermarket intercooler, has a nitrous bottle and all the hookups for it(cant seem to find the particular kit for this car unless thats a stock intake with a sticker or something). Said theres a new clutch in the transmission.
Head has been replaced with a 97 head

Driveline is off and in car

Cv shaft under passanger side was broke

Multiple sensors/starter wasnt plugged in

Exhaust is unhooked

Strut tower needs repair and so does trunk floor

Camshaft sensor wires were cut and spliced into a sensor that goes to the boost lines, see inbetween the valve cover and the billet fuel rail.

Ive checked the timing marks since the cover was off anyway, belts on and its all lined up, turned car over by hand feel the compression stroke, no binding or hard spots

My question is where would you all of the DSM community start, what to check and double check before trying to crank or do anything too crazy


Just and edit, the starter relay is trash on this car(apperently a pretty common problem from what ive seen) so thats bypassed, so dont need the clutch to start the car anymore either and the key works for that, however the starter was no good so i got a salvage yard starter and that also was no good so im ordering a brand new one,

I also have already removed the 97 camshaft postion sensor/cam angle sensor and built a plate to bolt over it, aince the car doesnt need it

Look at that Dejon intake pipe. Welcome Zach. This will make for a good build thread - be sure you create a Vehicle Profile by clicking this link. Once you do that, a build thread gets created automatically. You can then use that to document the build here and store all your progress.

Thanks for sharing! If you want, I can actually tie this thread to the vehicle profile and make it the build thread.

Ludachris said:

Look at that Dejon intake pipe. Welcome Zach. This will make for a good build thread - be sure you create a Vehicle Profile by clicking this link. Once you do that, a build thread gets created automatically. You can then use that to document the build here and store all your progress.

Thanks for sharing! If you want, I can actually tie this thread to the vehicle profile and make it the build thread.

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Id appreciate if you did that for me, your avout the 5th person whos commented on specifically that intake. Is it really good? Or just old school and nostalgic?

ZachTSI95 said:

your avout the 5th person whos commented on specifically that intake. Is it really good? Or just old school and nostalgic?

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Mostly nostalgia. Dejon Tool (later renamed Dejon Powerhouse) was one of the first companies to make a variety of intake pipes and intercooler pipes for these cars many years ago (about 25 years now). The owner of Dejon passed away several years ago, so those of us who remember when his product was largely the only option on the market get a little misty eyed when we see one in photos like this.

There are other options out there now, and honestly, there isn't really a difference in performance between them so long as you match the pipe size to the turbo inlet. It's just a matter of using one that fits the MAF you're running (or not running).

I had a Dejon intake pipe on my 1g for a while before I converted to a different MAF.

Did a little more today, got the harness stripped out for the engine, i ordered a few things that im waiting to come in, i got some expandable wire sleeve red and black in color in multiple sizes for each section of harness, ordered a master pin/terminal kit so i can unpin each one as i add the loom, i also got rolls of tesa tape and saftey wire so i can reloom the harness with tape, then safteywire , tape again and then loom, to ensure no rubbed through or heat melted wires by being able to bend and position it because of a stainless core.. i also have stock of 1/0 so i built a aluminum battery holddown for the trunk, waiting for busbars to come in. Also got some better pictures of the underside and a closer pic of the strut tower. Bare with me, im having an additon built currently with a 2 post lift and concrete floors so these awful pics on my field wont last long

ZachTSI95 said:

Id appreciate if you did that for me

Click to expand...

Before I can make this your official build thread, you need to create a vehicle profile with the link I previously posted. Then I can tie the thread to that profile for you.

ZachTSI95 said:

Just and edit, the starter relay is trash on this car(apperently a pretty common problem from what ive seen) so thats bypassed, so dont need the clutch to start the car anymore either and the key works for that

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I could have this wrong (I'm a 1g guy) but disabling the clutch pedal position switch is a common mod people do so that you don't have to push in the clutch pedal to start the engine. This is good because then you have no thrust load on the crankshaft thrust bearing while you are cranking the engine, and that is good because you probably don't have any oil pressure during that time. So it's one of the things people do to prevent that major bearing failure.

The actual Starter relay is often bypassed too.
You would think that the purpose of the starter relay would be to relieve the electrical load on the Start part of the ignition switch. But no. It only relieves electrical load on the starter position switch.
It doesn't relieve load on the ignition switch because all the current for the starter solenoid goes through the ignition switch anyway. So you might as well jumper over the starter relay to take it out of the system, and it sounds like yours is already.

So if that's what you got there, don't bother "fixing" it. It's fixed!
Looks like you have plenty of other wiring to fix!

Here's what I could find for electrical drawings, figuring 1995, turbo, MT, and they show it with and without theft alarm.
The diagram in the upper left is a little hard to follow, but you would ignore the branch at the top labeled 2.0 L (Non-Turbo) A/T which apparently is the only model that brought current in separately rather than through the ignition switch.
Chilton manual for 1990-98 Eclipse page 6-52:

Look at the relic of intake pipes. Jeeeeezz it's been a decade since I've seen one of those

You should fill out a vehicle profile > http://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/

Doing that will also auto-generate a build thread where you can post pics and updates about your progress on the car... Oh and more pics too.