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Wrecked Front End 2G GSX - Repair Options ?

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rhodes2010

15+ Year Contributor
121
7
Apr 17, 2010
Palmdale, California
So the 1996 2g GSX that is basically stock ran into a stationary object at about 40mph.
I'll post a picture soon.
I believe the sub-frame is straight and the damage is all forward of the wheels.

It looks like hood, fenders, bumper, headlights, foglights, bumper supports
and radiator support will need replacing, also the complete fuse box got smashed and the MAF is cracked. Radiator and intercooler look okay.

SO.... looking for some advice.
I really like the car and probably could get it all put back in two weeks and
not too much money as these front end parts seem available easily where we are. I may need to take it to a frame shop for straightening, but that is no big deal.

OR we could purchase a not-running GS, can I convert a GS to a GSX by installing our driveshaft, supports and rear differential into the body ?
Will it work ? I found a few sort of cheap.

If we do just repair this can I just as easily put 1999 front bumper and fog lights
on to the 1996 car ?

Any words of encouragment from those who have been here , done that ?

Thanks.
 

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I would just fix the cars front end. It would be cheaper than doing the swap on a n/t. Also I work at a auto body parts. I could help you get all those parts you need cheap. I recently got in a minor crash, my bumper got trashed and the rebar cracked in half. The parts cost me under $120. Just pm me if you need any prices.
 
Thank you all. I refined my searches and did find posted articles on front end change and did find that headlights need to be changed along with the bumper.

I agree that trying to convert a n/t non AWD not worth it. But... if I purchased a n/t non AWD car
that is complete I could use it as a donor for the needed parts.
You never know what small thing is broken in there (until we get it apart) and those small parts will nickle-dime-dollar you to death.

Thanks 98BlackEclipse, I'll pm you about this.
 
Repairing your car might be cheaper but you need to see what needs to be replaced first.
Personally, I'd swap the parts to another car. I'm not a fan of driving a car after it's had an accident.
 
Definitely repair, a GS has a totally different sub frame. I would restore it to the way it was. Everybody does a 2gb eclipse swap. Overrated IMO. I have just about every part you need, minus the hood and bumper. I even have a fuse box and Ill sell them for cheap. Pm me if interested.:thumb:
 
Dude that sucks. And hurts to see.

As long as the sub frame and the steering/suspension aren't jacked you should be able to get the parts for a decent price. If you fix it yourself, take some pics of the progress.
 
That is a decent amount of work to fix. Be prepared to get some spot weld cutting bits and a welder if your going to do all the work yourself. I have been in a front end collision before but on my beater and that was a hassle in itself. If you have never done body work and don't have the funds to purchase the tools your better off going to a body shop.
 
Here is what the inside of your fuse box looks like.
After surveying the damage, this will be the most time consuming part.
Replaceing the wires one-by-one into a replacement fusebox.

So far so good. Hood, fender, bumper came off easily.

I am going to pul the right side radiator support up and forward before removing.

I am taking plenty of pictures and will do a complete how-to when finished.
 

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this could be a time to build something.. just throwing that out there... if anyones interested i have a 1991 tsi awd shell for sale... perfect condition for a project car.. selling it for cheap too
 
Okay. Update. Spent all last night and today wiring in a replacement fusebox and have finished.

Now I am staring a tthe radiator support. Last weekend I cut one out of a junkyard car and am debating if I should do this myself or take it to a shop.
Just the upper radiator support.

I can drill out the spot welds, clamp in the used upper support , could weld it in myself.

Not sure how much a shop would charge.

Got my replacement parts.
Bumper, lights, fender, hood.
 
weather permitting I will weld in radiator support tomorrow.
Got some good pictures of the setup. Got all old broken support pieces out.
Basically replacing headlight supports and complete cross bar at top.
And about 10 inches of right side fender support. That is the tricky part.

Did some test welds on the old hood today. Using a wire feed welder.
Lookin good so far.

If you have to reuse bent parts like we have (low budget) you get pretty good at
bending stuff back in place. Got to be careful not to weaken it.
Bumper supports moved back, foglight supports. Other small pieces that I pretty much
hammer and form to look like they should.

Where we do not cut corners is paint prep, primer and paint. Using the best we can get. Should look better than before the accident.
 
In my opinion, you should just take all the good parts and cut your losses.. Find a decent 2g shell and build off that! My dads a body man and hes tought me a ton about body work, and I know how hard it is to get things just perfect to where they all fit nicely. Its very time consuming and tedious work. It would ###### be cheaper in the long run as well. With that kind of front end damage you have to take alignment into consideration as well.

So unless your diehard about doing this kind of project, more power to ya man! Id suggest looking for a different project. Just me .02...
 
Hey man, been there, done that... If your like me, your prob. very connected to the car. I would go ahead and continue with the repair. I did the same thing cutting the rad support off another car. Cheaper to fix my car than to buy a beater. I got out from practically the same thing as you for 500 bucks. Keep up the good work and continue with pics!ROFL
 
Just from looking at that I'm willing to bet that the unibody has been tweaked. Your upper passenger frame rail is pretty ####ed, and generally speaking, in that condition it would be sectioned or replaced. Either way, if you want to repair it properly, you'll need at the absolute minimum a good tram gauge and all the frame specs on the car to make sure that you're putting parts back in the right place.

I've done quite a few front end sections now on cars with hits like yours. If you don't have any experience with frame straightening or bodywork, I would definitely suggest against doing it yourself. If you still want to though, I'll see what I can do as far as getting you all the front end frame specs.
 
After positioning the radiator support and headlight supports I used the replacement fender to do a positioning check.

At this stage it is crucial that the line between the door and the fender be clean and even. Also allowed me to be sure the small forward section on fender support is properly positioned. I will tack weld the support in place. Remove the fender, then finish the weld.

The entire radiator support will be lightly sanded, primed and repainted silver.

Looks quite a bit different from the first picture huh ?

The important thing in a collision is to frist determine if the subframe and unibody have changed positions at all. This is crucial. A bent sub frame means frame straightening. Which is something you can pay to have done and is reasonable.

First we looked at the line where front of doors meets fenders, below the A pillars, they did not move.
Next you measure the center to center of the wheels on each side of the car, left, right.
They need to match. Next you measure the front left to right rear and right front to left rear. Basically an X across the car. These numbers need to match also. Those four measurements tell you if the car is square still.
Depending on the numbers you may need frame straightened and aligned.
The next one is harder to do, but the car needs to have the correct height.
I usually do this at all four corners on a level surface or rack if you have access to one.

This particular crash was where the car slid underneath a much higher truck.
That probably explains why the subframe did not take any damage , nor did the bumper. And as a friend pointed out, these cars are totally designed to crumple.
Amazing how soft each individual piece of metal is.
Hey everybody, check out a pre- 1970's american made car. Each piece of steel is so strong it cannot be moved without hydraulic force.

So far, I am about $260 for parts, another $100 for paint, and another $135 for a new windshield. About $500 total.

I was quoted $1800 to repair this car by two different body shops. A price that I thought was fair and reasonable. It just so happens we had the tools and time to do this one.

The hardest part by far was re-wiring the fusebox one wire at a time. (or four at a time
as those black relays use four wires each).

Of course, we are not done yet, plenty could still go wrong. But I am hoping it won't.
 

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Wow man. Great work! :thumb: Keep it up.

One question for you, Did you replace the whole radiator support or just the top part of it? I am going to be replacing my whole radiator support, and was wondering how many welds have to be drilled out to remove the whole thing?
 
Black Widow, I would ask why doing the whole thing ? Unless you have serious rot/rust/damage. I would leave the bottom rail alone. Looks much harder to remove , IMO.

I removed the headlight supports and top rail. 3 parts that the dealer sells for $100 retail. I paid $10 at Ecology auto parts on half-off weekend.
This way all my exposed top welds will still be factory looking spot welds.

To do my welds, I probably drilled 20 holes. All at the base of the headlight supports. And maybe 6 on the tips of the fender supports.
My mistake was not using a special spot weld drill bit which probably
looks like a forstner bit. But even if I had, I would have been drilling through the part on the car anyway, still leaving a hole.

I plan I welding the holes shut, then grinding off the bumps. With patience you can make a weld disappear.

I looked at the lower brace, in case it would be needed. There are probably another 20 spot welds. Once those are drilled out the parts just come apart easily. Maybe a little nudge with a cold chisel, but not much.
Basically drilling out at the subframe members would remove the lower brace.

NOTE: the headlight supports and upper brace (radiator support) appear to be the same on turbo and non-turbo cars. The lower brace is definitely different on the two cars and is not interchangeable. Due to the engine being swapped from one side to the other.
This was a factor in my doing upper parts only. Junkyard supply near me (4,5 ,6 , maybe 7 junkyards) and only one had a turbo to pull parts from (bummer).
So I got my fusebox off the turbo and cut the upper brace from the best non-turbo I could find. Had to use a cordless drill (killed two sets of batteries) and a hacksaw, and a cold chisel. Took out more than needed so I could trim once I got home.

Anyway, Thanks for all the encouragement. This board is the best!
 
I feel your pain I'm goin thru the same thing myself. Mine isn't as bad as yours but the incurance totaled it. I used a floor jack with wood blocks and a pry bar to get things back into shape. The worst is needing a new core support. I checked on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market the local yards wanted $150 and up for a crappy old core support. Found a new one on ebay for $174 delivered.
All the best.

Death By Ram 1500 4x4 - DSMtuners Gallery

Do you have any pics of how u pulled out the damage?
 
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