wow..bad compression @ 500 miles.

[EclipticalGS]

Well, I just did a compression test today, I couldnt really get the motor up to operating temperature because I blew out the new water pump and seal driving home yesterday.

When warming the car up, im afraid that the coolant temp sensor wont know the real temp because there is barely any coolant in the system.

Car has been idling crappy at 11.2 afr.

So, I warmed up the car for about 3 minutes, until my valve cover was hot to the touch.

I did a compression test on a dsmgraveyard long block with 500 miles.

Test results cold were 110-120-90-110

Test results warm were 120-120-115-120

Test result warm with a spoonfull of oil 150-145-150-145

Why is my compression so fricken low? This is a brand new block and everything?? I did the proper breakin procedures and put load on the rings, changed the oil @ 50 miles, then 500.

So I have brand new oil in right now with about 15 miles, non-synthetic Napa 10w-30.

Let me know what I should check further??

I did have the throttle open, engine warm enough, all spark plugs out.

Thanks.

 

[EclipticalGS]

i never thought an injector could cause bad compression, im just concerned because my Idle right now is 10-13 afrs, its all over the place man.

Everything seems to be working fine, and there nos CELS so maybe my ECU ground is fried?? I had my 1G CAS wiring catch fire and it did NOT blow that 20A Engine fuse...my ECU sensor ground could be "fecked" Ill pull the ecu and take a pic of tomorrow!! Thanks.

IAC clicks with engine completely off after its been, ran. A tick every 5 seconds for about 3 minutes.

Could be my FIAV
idk.

 

[viprez586]

If it were just 1 injector hanging open, do you think the compression would not be as uneven? I.E. 150-150-130-145 instead of <5 psi difference across the board?

I never mentioned compression due to injectors. I'm talking about the OPs on going problem with running rich. (Look at his previous threads)
Anyway no, an injector will not affect compression numbers.

i never thought an injector could cause bad compression, im just concerned because my Idle right now is 10-13 afrs, its all over the place man.

Everything seems to be working fine, and there nos CELS so maybe my ECU ground is fried?? I had my 1G CAS wiring catch fire and it did NOT blow that 20A Engine fuse...my ECU sensor ground could be "fecked" Ill pull the ecu and take a pic of tomorrow!! Thanks.

IAC clicks with engine completely off after its been, ran. A tick every 5 seconds for about 3 minutes.

Could be my FIAV
idk.

I wouldn't doubt it, perhaps enough amperage "snuck" past the fuse and fried something else. Visually is hard to tell, try swapping with a friend's ECU, worst come to worst send it to ecmtuning to get checked out.
Look for weird IAT & BARO readings too.
Usually grounds are pretty solid unless they're exposed to a lot of corrosion, wouldn't hurt to double check all grounds, including battery terminals.
If the ECU isn't getting proper voltage all kinds of weird sh-t will happen.

My IAC clicks upon start-up and shut down. I believe it's the plunger returning to "home" when turning off, and compensating for cold start-up, or any start up really.

I have a good reason to believe your not entering closed loop for some reason. Perhaps a faulty coolant sensor, wiring, or worst case ECU.

Directly from ecumtuning:
2G Open loop mode (any one true)
*
Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
*
Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
*
Coolant temp < 51F
*
Coolant temp > 228F
*
The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.

All of the following have to be true for a full 5 seconds. If any single one is not true even for a millisecond, the timer starts over and trends in STFT will *not* be moved into LTFT.

2G Learn mode (all must be true)

*
Coolant temp >= 180F
*
Intake air temp < 133F
*
Baro >= 22.9 inHg
*
Baro <= 31.6 inHg

 

[EclipticalGS]

Thanks, I will get a log soon and match itto what youre saying.

Ill try to get this thing done.

Also, my water pump seal against the head is completely blown out? What would cause this?

 

[viprez586]

Thanks, I will get a log soon and match itto what youre saying.

Ill try to get this thing done.

Also, my water pump seal against the head is completely blown out? What would cause this?

I haven't looked at what seal your refferring to, but I'd assume if they're flat surfaces - that one or the other(WP or head) is warped from overheating.
A picture would help I guess.

 

[soulefood]

did you have the head checked with a straight edge? your ring gaps could be off... the hone could be wrong... the head gasket could be garbage... head bolts not torqued right... rings not clocked properly when installed... bent valves in the head? valves not lapped in?

 

[EclipticalGS]

The head was an Oem head rebuild from the DSMGraveyard....So im sure they did everything right. Maybe not I guess.

 

[EclipticalGS]

What do you guys think the cause of a Water pump gasket, that meets up to the block completely blowing out???

I drained all my coolant and stuff, and just have my water-pipe installed in the water pump, and ive been pouring water with UV Dye through the pipe and its just leaking with gravity all down my timing component and I can see a steady stream...

what would cause that???

 

[1slo1g]

What do you guys think the cause of a Water pump gasket, that meets up to the block completely blowing out???

I drained all my coolant and stuff, and just have my water-pipe installed in the water pump, and ive been pouring water with UV Dye through the pipe and its just leaking with gravity all down my timing component and I can see a steady stream...

what would cause that???

When you bolted it down did you torque it down to the correct specs if it was a little bit off it would blow out the gasket like that

 

[EclipticalGS]

It was all done by a shop....but even if that were so, why would it only last 500 miles before going poof?

I know this is out there, but would a cracked cylinder wall possibly push so mush pressure into the water pump/system and pop that seal?? Im doing a leakdown test in 2 days.

Also, Ive had this sort of stupid question on my mind too..Does the Coolant Temp sensor/ switch Effectively read the right Coolant temps, when there is no coolant left in the thermostat housing????

Because, I know for 100% certainty my temp. gauge never went over Half on the gauge, but there was like no coolant in the motor at all...

The coolant seal popped, I pulled into someones driveway real quick, saw coolant all over my timing belt, let the car sit for like 1 hour while I left with a freind to go pick him another friend up from work, Got back in 1 hour total, so the car was a little bit cooled down, Then I drove my car about 2 miles, and limped it to my buddies house real slow, never shifted above 2K rpms, Id say about 5 minutes total of driving....

I did get into my buddies drive way and killed it n rolled into his garage, and there it sat, and in about 10-20 minutes time, there was probably a gallon of coolant on the ground under the car just accumulating while the car was off. All leaking from the water pump itself

So, am I safe to assume that if my temp. gauge never went above half, and I still had a gallon of fluid leak out AFTER I got the car in his garage. then I didnt overheat anything right?? I started it the next day with water running through it, but I just wanted to make sure.

Also, it seems like when the car is running, the water leaks a little, because on that 5 minute drive to my buddies, I had someone tail me, and there was a little stream coming out all the way to his house, but as soon as I killed the car, There was a rush of coolant and it just started pouring out like crazy...

Thanks yalll